This can take new puppy parents by surprise. With some diseases in puppies happening within hours of being in their new home, there’s no time to build a pet emergency fund. In some cases, it may even be too soon for pet insurance. Luckily, there are options such as CareCredit, a health and pet care credit card that can be used to pay for both planned and unexpected veterinary costs.*

I’ve been a veterinarian for eight years, and I’ve seen plenty of puppies with a whole range of illnesses. One memorable pup became very ill within hours of me signing off on their insurance, and spent the night in the emergency vet. 

Let’s go over how to tell if a puppy is sick, common puppy illnesses, and more, to help you decide whether you need to take your poor puppy to the vet.

How to Tell If Your Puppy Is Sick

When you first get your puppy, you don’t know them very well. That can make it harder to spot if they’re acting out of character because they’re ill. So, how can you tell if a puppy is sick?

Well, the first thing to look out for is their general demeanor. Aside from some nervousness in their new environment, puppies should be inquisitive, friendly, and interested in the world around them. They should also alternate periods of play with sleep and eating on a fairly regular schedule.

Puppies who sleep a lot, seem hard to rouse, or aren’t awake and energetic in their wake periods could be sick. Puppies should have a good appetite and, while diarrhea is common, it isn’t normal and shouldn’t be ignored — especially since puppies can go downhill quickly even with mild illnesses. If you think your puppy is sick, it’s best to call the vet. They’ll help you determine whether or not to worry.

7 Common Puppy Illnesses: Signs and Treatment

Here are some common puppy illnesses to know about:

Parvovirus

Puppies are especially likely to catch parvovirus as their immunity protection from their mother wanes, especially if they haven’t started their vaccination course yet. This highly contagious virus is caught from infected dogs and from the environment where those dogs have been. Parvovirus is the main reason veterinarians advise caution when taking your dog out until their vaccinations are complete. 

Parvovirus is often fatal, and dogs who survive can have digestive problems for life due to the damage done to their intestines. 

You might spot diarrhea and vomiting, especially with blood. Head straight to the vet — treatment is intensive and the faster it’s started, the better chance your puppy has of survival.

Distemper

Another disease that veterinarians vaccinate puppies against, distemper, is thankfully less common — although still extremely serious. You might see vomiting, coughing, lethargy, fever, and neurological signs as the illness progresses. 

Due to the damage to their immune system, dogs are also very prone to picking up secondary infections, which can sadly be enough to kill a puppy. 

There is no treatment for distemper. Dogs have supportive treatment while their immune system battles the virus.

Fleas, ear mites, and other external parasites

Extremely common but thankfully mild in most cases, external parasites are usually contracted from the environment or contact with other pets. It’s very common for puppies to have ear mites or fleas, especially if they didn’t have the best start in life. 

You might see itching, head shaking, or biting at the back and flanks. Fleas are sometimes visible, or your dog’s coat may look dirty with what looks like dried mud but is actually flea poop. Ear mites leave thick dark-brown ear discharge. 

These, and a host of other external parasites, are easy enough to treat. Your vet will explain the best product for your puppy’s infestation.

Worms

We often call internal parasites worms. They are parasites that live in your dog’s intestines (and in some cases, other organs), feeding off your pet. Puppies can get roundworm and hookworm easily because they explore their environment with their mouths, and they can also get it from their mom’s milk. 

Contrary to popular belief, we can’t prevent worms in dogs. The drugs we use to target them kill all the worms that are present, but need regular re-dosing to ensure the puppy doesn’t immediately pick them up again. 

You might spot a round belly, diarrhea, or difficulty gaining weight. Talk to your vet to make sure you get the right worm treatment for your puppy.

Giardia

Giardia is a protozoal parasite that’s fairly common in puppies. It can be fairly subtle — dogs may grow and eat with no problem, and there’s no characteristic bloated belly. Instead, dogs will just have chronic diarrhea, of varying intensity. 

Giardia is often not diagnosed until dogs are a bit older, as it’s common to try worming and treating the diarrhea symptomatically first (it needs a special test to identify it). Normal worm treatments don’t tend to work against giardia. If your puppy is diagnosed, they’ll need different medications.

Kennel Cough

Kennel cough is the common name for a group of diseases that cause a cough in dogs. It’s common in puppies who are socialized a lot, since it spreads from dog to dog. Your puppy’s immune system isn’t fully developed, meaning they can catch and spread kennel cough more easily. 

There’s no specific treatment, but dogs may need symptomatic treatment to help, especially if they’re at risk of secondary infection. 

Vaccinations are available and are highly recommended if your puppy is going to puppy classes, group training, or doggy daycare.

Congenital diseases

While not common, veterinarians normally spot congenital diseases when puppies are very young. Congenital diseases are those the puppy is born with. In most cases, it’s something that happened in early development. 

Among other diseases, common congenital diseases puppies may be born with include a liver shunt that prevents them properly accessing nutrients from their food (portosystemic shunt) or a hole or extra blood vessel in the heart, causing blood to flow incorrectly. 

The common symptom in these cases is ill thrift — puppies who are runty, fail to grow, have bad coats, or are lethargic. There are usually surgical options to correct these, so talk to your vet as soon as you’re worried your puppy is sick.

How to Help a Puppy Feel Better

If your puppy is sick, the most important thing to do is to take them to a vet. Puppies have immature immune systems, and this can mean they deteriorate quickly from even mild illness. 

Once your vet has decided your pup is safe to go home, make sure you follow your vet’s instructions with regards to medications and exercise. Sick puppies usually need to be fed little and often, but it’s best to stick to a diet they’re familiar with rather than change it up when they’re unwell. 

Make sure your puppy always has plenty to drink, and keep them warm. However, it’s easy to burn a puppy’s thin skin — avoid hot water bottles and heated blankets, and make sure they can move if they get too hot.

How to Keep Your Puppy Healthy

There are lots of things you can do to help keep your puppy healthy. The first thing to do is take your puppy to their first vet visit — within a couple of days of bringing them home. Your vet will be able to give you personalized advice about puppy vaccinations, parasite prevention, diet, and the rest. 

Try to puppy-proof your home and yard, especially in areas your pup will be unsupervised. Try to also educate yourself about common toxins in the home and yard so you can react quickly if you see your dog eating something they shouldn’t. 

Training dogs to use a crate is sensible, as it allows you to keep them safely contained when they can’t be supervised. 

Lastly, make sure you have a plan for your puppy’s medical bills, whether that’s CareCredit, pet insurance, or something else. CareCredit empowers pet parents to be financially prepared for the lifetime of care their canine companions need to stay healthy and happy.*

References

1. Brand, Claire L et al. “Pandemic Puppies: Demographic Characteristics, Health and Early Life Experiences of Puppies Acquired during the 2020 Phase of the COVID-19 Pandemic in the UK.” Animals : an open access journal from MDPI vol. 12,5 629. 2 Mar. 2022, doi:10.3390/ani12050629

*Subject to credit approval. See carecredit.com for details.

This information is shared solely for your convenience. Neither Synchrony nor any of its affiliates, including CareCredit, make any representations or warranties regarding the products described, and no endorsement is implied. You are urged to consult with your individual veterinarian with respect to any professional advice presented.

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Let’s look closely at lungworm in cats, how they get it, and how to protect your cat.

What Is Lungworm in Cats?

Cats can get several different lungworms in North America. The most common type in domestic cats is Aelurostrongylus abstrusus, but cats can also get several other species of lungworm. 

Cats with lungworm have adult worms living inside their lungs, and immature larvae moving around the lungs. The irritation causes coughing, and the worms can take up so much space that cats have problems breathing. It can be distressing for cats, and the symptoms can become severe enough to become fatal — especially in young kittens, who can get the infection from their mother’s milk. 

How Do Cats Get Lungworm?

Cats usually catch the lungworm by eating infected rodents or birds (for most species — although one parasite species can also be picked up from cat poop). Once they’ve been eaten, the parasite enters the bloodstream and travels to the lungs, where they mature into adults. These adult parasites produce eggs, which hatch, and the first-stage larvae are coughed up and swallowed. 

These tiny larvae survive the stomach and intestines and are then passed in the poop, ready to infect a slug or snail. Inside the slug or snail they mature, and are then able to infect cats again — although usually, they first infect a mouse or bird that eats the slug or snail.  

This means outdoor cats, and especially strays who hunt a lot, are much more likely to have cat lungworm than those who spend most of their time indoors.

Most lungworms need to spend some time in an intermediate host (in this case, the snails/slugs) to develop properly. This means cats can’t normally catch lungworm from one another. But one type of lungworm is infectious as soon as it’s passed in feces and can be caught by in-contact cats and other animals, including humans, causing bronchitis with a productive cough.

Signs of Lungworm in Cats

The signs of lungworm in cats vary hugely. In some cases, cats can be infected with lungworms without showing any signs at all. This is called an asymptomatic infection. This is more likely at an early stage of the disease. As the adult worms grow and take up more space and produce more eggs and larvae, there’s more damage to the lungs and more symptoms. Asymptomatic infections are also more likely if cats are infected with only a small number of worms. The more larvae they ingest, the worse their symptoms are likely to be.

A cat with lungworm might have:

• A cough (usually a productive one, followed by a swallow)
• Nasal discharge
• Fever
• Fast breathing
• Lymph node enlargement
• Lethargy
• Weight loss
• Difficulty breathing
• Blue-tinged gums 

In some cases, lungworm infections are undiagnosed until animals die under anesthetic, and the infection is found on post-mortem. One important thing to note is that you don’t expect to see worms in cat poop if they’ve got lungworm. Although the lungworm parasite does come out in the poop, it’s the very tiny first-stage larvae and not the adult worms. They can’t be seen without a microscope, so worms in a cat’s poop are not a sign of lungworm (although mixed infection with several types of worms is possible, too).

Diagnosing Lungworm in Cats

Vets usually suspect lungworm based on a cat’s history and age. A young cat who spends lots of time outdoors is more likely to have feline lungworm than an indoor-only cat or one who is much older.

Once the adult worms are old enough to start producing eggs (about 4-6 weeks after the infective larvae were ingested), then vets can usually find first-stage larvae in the poop. A smear of poop is examined under the microscope to look for the first-stage larvae, which are very active and easy to see (although difficult to distinguish from some other larvae). Eggs aren’t produced consistently, so collecting poop over several days or trying again several times might help.

There are several other tests that might help identify lungworm in cats. The best is probably a PCR test, which checks the poop (or a throat swab) for the presence of lungworm DNA. This is low-risk and not very invasive, with a high chance of success. Worms might also be seen on a lung wash or Bronchioalveolar Lavage – BAL, which is where sterile water is pushed into an anesthetized cat and then sucked out, and the liquid is sent for testing. The problem with this technique is that it’s invasive and risky, especially to a cat who already has symptoms of lung trouble. 

While lungworm in cats can’t be diagnosed on X-ray alone, it’s likely your vet will take X-rays as part of a workup for coughing in cats as it can help rule out other diseases. Unfortunately, the signs of cat lungworm on X-ray are non-specific. The thickened airways and pneumonia can look like asthma, which causes similar symptoms. Similarly, while they won’t usually see any worms, using a video camera (bronchoscope) can be helpful to rule out other diseases and visually see the damage to the lungs to help guide treatment.

Lungworm in Cats Treatment

Treating the actual feline lungworm itself isn’t particularly difficult. Many anti-parasite products on the market have been proven to cure the lungworm. The main problem comes with treating the inflammation, secondary infections, and any complications caused by the worms themselves. In cats with moderate to severe symptoms, antibiotics and anti-inflammatory steroids may need to be given as well, and they may need to be hospitalized for oxygen therapy while the treatment begins. There are no home remedies to cure lungworms in cats. 

Once your cat has had their anti-parasite medication, you’ll need to watch them closely. It’s possible for the death of the parasites to cause cats to feel worse for a short time, so keep an eye on their breathing and energy levels and call your vet if you have any concerns.

Lungworm Medicine for Cats

Many common anti-parasite medications can treat lungworms in cats, although their use against lungworms may be considered “off-label.” The following are most commonly used:

• Imidacloprid + moxidectin (Advantage Multi): a spot-on anti-parasite medication that kills adult worms
• Emodepside + praziquantel (Profender): a spot-on anti-parasite medication that kills adult worms 
• Fenbendazole (Panacur): An anti-parasite oral paste that kills the adult worms
• Prednisolone: An anti-inflammatory steroid

Cost of Treating Lungworm in Cats

Unfortunately, because lungworm is fairly rare, investigations to get a diagnosis can be expensive, especially as vets normally rule out more common causes of similar symptoms first. This means the cost of diagnosis can be high, ranging from $200-$1,000. Because lungworm in cats can usually be treated with normal anti-parasitic drugs, the actual cost of the drugs to treat lungworm can be quite low, as little as $50. The more severe the symptoms, the more it costs to treat, with cats needing hospitalization costing $300-$600 to treat.

How to Prevent Lungworm in Cats

Because most feline lungworms are spread through eating small prey, preventing cats from hunting will reduce the chance of them catching lungworm. Some cats find it very stressful to be kept indoors, but anti-hunting collars may help reduce their catch rate even if you’re letting them out.

For those prolific hunters or for stray cats, it’s possible to prevent feline lungworm with monthly medications from your vet. If this is the case, talk to your vet about your cat’s parasite prevention to make sure they’re covered.

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As a vet myself, I agree — I would see on average one dog with a skin problem each day. The problem is, skin cases are complex and need a thorough workup to get to the bottom of the problem. My skin cases also have to compete with my vomiting cases, my heart disease cases, and emergencies that walk through the door, meaning it’s very hard to be as thorough as needed. That’s why I often recommend seeing a dog dermatologist. 

Read on to learn more about dog dermatologists, the types of skin issues they treat, and signs it’s time to see one.

What Do Dog Dermatologists Do?

Dog dermatologists focus on the skin, ears, fur, and nails. They don’t have to deal with the heart problems or the vomiting, the dental problems or the emergencies, so their time and knowledge are focused on diseases of the skin. Many dog dermatologists will have extra qualifications or even be board-certified, and they’ll keep up to date with recent advancements through Continuing Education (CE) focused on skin issues. 

Veterinary dermatologists see all manner of skin problems in dogs, but the most common one is allergies. Dog skin allergies are the most common skin problem our dogs suffer from, and allergies affect about 1 in 20 dogs in the U.S. (2). Dog dermatologists will see dogs with skin allergies all day, every day, and it means they have a lot of great experience. They know the recommended diagnostic steps and have access to the latest treatments, such as the newly released Zenrelia (ilunocitinib tablets). Zenrelia provides fast and effective relief for dogs with allergic itch and inflammation.

Read the entire package insert before using Zenrelia, including the Boxed Warning. 

They also have longer for each patient — it’s common for dog dermatologist appointments to be an hour or even longer, to ensure they can get all the information they need. 

Of course, this knowledge, experience, and extended consult time comes at a price, and dog dermatologist appointments are more expensive than your average general practitioner consultation. However, in my opinion, the dog dermatologist cost is money well-spent, as pet parents get results faster, spending less money on a trial-and-error approach. 

Common Dermatological Conditions in Dogs

Dog dermatologists see a wide range of skin problems in dogs. While allergies make up the bulk of their work because of how common they are, dog dermatology specialists also see:

• Allergic skin disease
• Skin infections
• Ear infections
• Hormonal diseases affecting the coat
• Nail problems, such as symmetric lupoid onychodystrophy (SLO)
• Hair loss
• Some skin tumors
• Auto-immune skin diseases, like pemphigus
• Metabolic skin problems, like nutritional deficiencies causing skin problems

When to See a Dog Dermatologist: 5 Signs It’s Time

Your veterinarian should refer you to a dermatologist if you ask, and they may also recommend referral if they’re struggling to manage your dog’s skin problems. Here are five telltale signs you should consider referral to a dermatologist for dogs:

You want to find the underlying cause

General practitioner veterinarians like myself often treat the problem in front of us, which means giving symptomatic treatment. But finding and treating the underlying cause can make a big difference to dogs who have uncomfortable dermatological conditions. If your vet is stuck in a cycle of prescribing medications without recommending diagnostic steps to find an underlying cause, then a dog dermatologist might be able to help. 

You’ve done some diagnostics and hit a block

Another reason you might need to see a dog dermatologist is if your veterinarian has started diagnostic testing but has got stuck with what to do next, or is stumped by the results they’re getting. Dermatology specialists can be really helpful to go through these cases — no matter how unusual your dog’s condition is, they’ve probably seen it before.

Your dog doesn’t seem to be improving

If medications prescribed by your usual vet aren’t helping, or aren’t helping enough, a dog dermatology specialist might be a good idea. While they don’t necessarily have access to different medicines, they have experience using these medicines differently and may be able to recommend different dosing regimens to suit your dog. They’ll also go back to basics and help by diagnosing and treating the underlying cause as well as the symptoms. 

Your vet doesn’t have the right equipment

Sometimes it’s as simple as your dog needing a particular bit of equipment for a diagnostic test or treatment, for example a video otoscope for ear exams. If your usual veterinarian doesn’t have this piece of equipment, a referral to a nearby dog dermatologist may be what your dog needs. This also goes for intradermal allergy testing, as the allergen vials are not necessarily held by your general practice. 

You want a second opinion

As a pet parent, it’s your right to ask for a second opinion. Perhaps it’s a complex case and you want another perspective or maybe you don’t agree with the treatment your vet has recommended and you want to try Zenrelia or another allergy medication. Either way, if your dog has a complex skin issue, getting this second opinion from a specialist dermatologist for dogs might be more cost-effective than getting it from another general practitioner. 

Read the entire package insert before using Zenrelia, including the Boxed Warning. 

How to Find a Good Dog Dermatologist

If you’re going to pay more to see a dog dermatologist, you want to be assured they know what they’re doing. A board-certified dog dermatology specialist will be the most expensive, but they also have the most training and experience. They’ll usually be based in specialist referral centers, so you may have to travel some distance to your consultation. That said, some work on a peripatetic basis, meaning they move between nearby practices, to reach more pets. You can find a board-certified veterinary dermatologist with this search function from the American College of Veterinary Dermatology.

In some cases, depending on the complexity of your dog’s problems, it might be appropriate to use a general practitioner veterinarian who has a certificate or other further training in dog dermatology. These vets normally work in general practice so may be in a neighboring practice. They may not have all the necessary equipment at their disposal but are a useful step-up from your normal vet when a board-certified specialist isn’t available. 

The most important thing is that you trust your dog’s dermatologist. Mutual respect and trust is necessary for all vets, but even more so with dermatology, as it’s usually a slow road to recovery and relapse is common. So, choose somebody with qualifications you’re happy with, and feel free to ask them questions before you visit to ensure you’re happy with the level of care they can offer your pet.

Dog dermatologist referral

Usually, your vet will need to refer you to a dog dermatologist, and they might be able to recommend one nearby. Once you’ve chosen one, they’ll send over your pet’s notes in advance of your consultation so the dermatologist can see what’s already been tried. That said, don’t be surprised if the dermatologist insists on re-doing some tests in order to get a complete picture themselves. 

Summary

As a general practitioner vet, I often refer dogs with skin problems to a dog dermatologist. Their extensive experience and further qualifications put them in a great position to offer the best veterinary care to your dog. They also have access to equipment most vets don’t, and more time to focus on your dog’s history and symptoms. While visiting a dog dermatologist is more expensive than your usual vet, it’s often cost-effective as the underlying problem can be investigated and their wealth of experience means treatment is often more successful. 

References

1. O’Neill, Dan G et al. “Prevalence of commonly diagnosed disorders in UK dogs under primary veterinary care: results and applications.” BMC veterinary research vol. 17,1 69. 17 Feb. 2021, doi:10.1186/s12917-021-02775-3
2. Drechsler, Yvonne et al. “Canine Atopic Dermatitis: Prevalence, Impact, and Management Strategies.” Veterinary medicine (Auckland, N.Z.) vol. 15 15-29. 13 Feb. 2024, doi:10.2147/VMRR.S412570

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The problem with this particular red flag is that there are a lot of possible causes of blood in dog poop. Some may be minor and fairly harmless, while others could be serious and even fatal. This can leave many pet parents unsure of what to do next when they spy dog blood in stool.

To help you ensure your furry friend’s well-being, here’s what you need to know about the causes of bloody dog poop, what to do, and when to worry.

Dog Pooping Blood: What it Means

It’s quite common for dogs to poop blood, especially if they are prone to bouts of diarrhea. But just because it’s common doesn’t mean you should ever ignore or dismiss it.

Blood in canine feces could be caused by something as simple as an upset stomach or straining too hard while pooping. I’ve seen plenty of pets with blood in dog stool but acting normal. Or it could be a warning sign of a more severe condition, like an infection or internal bleeding.

While what’s causing your dog to poop blood isn’t always serious, it is a sign you should always take seriously. That starts with paying close attention to the quantity, color, and consistency of blood in your dog’s poop. Here’s what to look for.

What Does Blood in Dog Poop Look Like?

You might think it’s obvious what blood in dog poop looks like, but its appearance can vary greatly.

I’ve seen a wide range of blood colors, consistencies, and quantities in the dog poop I’ve examined in my career. Sometimes the blood is obvious, sometimes it’s harder to detect.

Here’s a small sampling of what to watch for:

• A bright red smear on an otherwise fairly normal poop
• A bright red smear or dots on a poop containing a foreign object such as tinfoil
• Bloody mucus (jelly) alongside or on diarrhea
• Dog diarrhea with blood in it
• Part of the feces stained a blood-red color
• Black, tarry feces
• Liquid stool that appears more red than brown  

Examining a bloody bowl movement in dogs may not sound that appealing, but it is important. Your dog’s bloody stool could contain valuable clues about where the blood is coming from and what’s causing the issue.

For instance, bright red blood in dog poop is called “hematochezia.” It usually indicates a problem in the lower part of a dog’s gastrointestinal (GI) tract.

Darker, tarry, black stools in dogs often indicate digested or swallowed blood, called “melena.” This can be a sign of upper intestinal bleeding, which is much more concerning.

If your dog’s poop is like jelly with blood, this suggests that your dog is suffering from colitis, or inflammation of the colon. This can be caused by several things, including stress, diet, infections, and more.

Why is My Dog Pooping Blood?

There are many reasons dogs might start pooping blood. To help you get your dog the care they need, I’ve outlined different causes and what to look out for below.

I’ve included descriptions of what types of bloody dog poop are linked with each. Though that can vary from dog to dog, so always check with your veterinarian if you have any concerns about your dog’s bloody poop.

Dietary indiscretion or intolerance

Dogs can be curious (and hungry) creatures. Sometimes that tempts them to eat things they shouldn’t, like table scraps, spoiled or toxic food, and even trash. Other dogs never stray from their food bowl, but may be allergic to something in their food. In both cases — whether because of dietary indiscretion or intolerance — dogs can experience gastrointestinal upset, inflammation, and diarrhea. If this persists, it can cause bloody diarrhea or loose, bloody stools in dogs. This can appear watery and may or may not contain mucus. 

Parasites

Some intestinal parasites, including hookworms, whipworms, roundworms, giardia, and cryptosporidium, can cause significant irritation and inflammation in your dog’s digestive tract. This can lead to bloody diarrhea or mucous in dog poop containing streaks of red blood. 

Such parasites are more likely in shelter dogs, farm dogs, and young puppies and can be hard to treat.

Pancreatitis

Bloody stools are a symptom of pancreatitis in dogs, too. Causes of pancreatitis include dietary indiscretion and eating foods that are high in fat. Some breeds are also prone to developing pancreatitis, including Miniature Schnauzers, Yorkshire Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, and Poodles.

This type of diarrhea is often severe and goes along with vomiting and loss of appetite in most dogs.

Infectious causes (including parvovirus)

Some viral and bacterial infections can cause dogs to poop blood. The most famous, and most severe, is parvovirus. In unvaccinated puppies, parvovirus is often fatal, which is why you should always take blood in puppy stool very seriously!

Other bacterial and viral infections that can cause bloody poop and diarrhea in dogs include salmonella (more likely in dogs on a raw diet), E. coli, campylobacteriosis, and canine distemper.

Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis (HGE)

Like pancreatitis, I’ve listed this one on its own even though it can have several causes. Also known as Acute Hemorrhagic Diarrhea Syndrome, HGE can cause severe, bloody, watery diarrhea. It can quickly lead to dehydration and even severe blood loss, so it’s one of the more serious causes of bloody stools.

Foreign bodies

Foreign objects – such as swallowed bones, sticks, or gravel – can also cause bleeding as they work their way through your dog’s intestinal tract.

The severity of the issue depends on a few things: where the objects are in the intestines, how much damage they are doing, and whether your dog can pass them.

For example, say your dog raids the trash and eats a small ball of tin foil. That might scrape the rectum as it passes out, causing a small amount of fresh blood that’s not a major concern.

On the other hand, if your dog swallows something pointy, like a stick or broken bone, these could perforate their intestines. That could cause blood in tools so dark it looks black and could result in life-threatening peritonitis. 

Clotting problems (including rat bait toxicity)

Dogs whose blood does not clot properly can experience very serious cases of bloody dog poop. Coagulation disorders can be genetic, due to liver disease, or even caused by a dog eating rat poison (rat bait toxicity). I’ve also seen a dog with Disseminated Intravascular Coagulopathy (DIC) have almost pure blood coming from their back end. In most cases, the dog is otherwise ill – you might see your dog throwing up blood too. This is very serious and will require specialized treatment at the vet.

What to Do About Blood in Dog Poop

The first thing you should do if you spot blood in dog poop is to look closely at it. That sounds pretty gross, but taking note of the amount of blood and the color can help your vet figure out what’s wrong. A photo or a sample may also be helpful!

You should also keep track of when you first noticed the blood, as well as any other symptoms that your dog is showing.

For example: Is your dog pooping blood but acting normal? Does your dog seem lethargic? Are they vomiting? How often and how much? Are they eating and drinking regularly? Have they lost weight?

If you’re seeing just a bit of blood in your dog’s poop and your dog is over 6 months old, fully vaccinated, and otherwise in good health, you probably don’t need to rush your pet to the vet. Some cases of bloody dog poop may resolve on their own within 24 hours.

Make sure your dog is drinking plenty of water (especially in cases of bloody diarrhea). You can try withholding food for 12 hours to see if that makes a difference. Once your dog is ready to eat again, consider a bland diet, such as boiled chicken and white rice.

Blood in Dog’s Stool: When to Seek Help

If your dog’s bloody stool continues longer than one day or is accompanied by any other signs of illness, then it’s time to contact your veterinarian. They can help determine whether you need a visit or whether to continue monitoring at home.

In certain situations, it’s important to visit your vet as soon as you notice blood in your dog’s stool. These include:

• if your puppy pooping blood is younger than a year old
• if your dog isn’t fully vaccinated against parvovirus and distemper
• if your dog is 10 or older
• if your dog has a diagnosed health condition
• if your dog may have eaten something they shouldn’t have
• if your dog has so much bloody diarrhea they risk becoming dehydrated
• if you think your dog is passing more than a tablespoon of blood. 

Whether your dog requires emergency care or not depends on a few factors. Your vet can tell you whether you need to bring your dog to the office or to the nearest emergency clinic right away.

When you arrive, your clinician will do a physical exam, looking for signs of clotting disorders, liver problems, and dehydration. They may also suggest a blood test, which can help to rule out parvovirus and pancreatitis and check for anemia.

If the stool is black, your vet is likely to suggest further diagnostic tests and imaging. Radiographs (X-rays) and ultrasounds can help spot intestinal perforations and blockages. Your vet may also collect a fecal sample for analysis.

If your dog is showing signs of extreme illness or your vet is worried they’ll go downhill quickly, they may suggest hospitalization for medications and fluids.

Treatment for Blood in Dog Stool

The treatment for blood in your dog’s stool depends on the underlying cause. That’s why it’s so essential to get your pet to the veterinarian for the proper diagnosis.

Depending on what your vet determines, here’s what you can expect in terms of treatment:

If dogs have to stay in the hospital, the treatment for blood in dog stool includes anti-diarrhea medicines, antibiotics, gut-protecting medicines, and fluids. 

If dogs are well enough to go home, they may receive oral antibiotics and anti-diarrhea medicines to help them recover.

Other treatments might be needed too, depending on your dog’s diagnosis. I’ve listed some possibilities below:

• Parasites: Anti-parasitics, often for an extended period
• Pancreatitis: Pain relief and dietary adjustments
• Infectious causes: Antibiotics, and for parvovirus the monoclonal antibody (CPMA)
• Foreign objects: Surgery 
• Clotting problems: Blood transfusions, immune-modulating therapies, or vitamin K, depending on the exact clotting problem noted

Your vet will talk you through potential therapies for bloody stools depending on your dog’s condition. 

How to Prevent Bloody Stool in Dogs

While not all causes of bloody dog poop can be prevented, there are steps you can take to reduce the risk of digestive issues in your dog.

• Get your dog vaccinated and dewormed. Parvovirus is extremely common and often fatal. Early and complete vaccination is one of the most powerful things you can do to prevent bloody poop in dogs. Routine deworming and parasite prevention are also key to keeping your dog’s gastrointestinal system healthy.
• Prevent dogs from eating what they shouldn’t. Keep your dog away from spoiled food, garbage, and harmful objects that could cause irritation or injury to their digestive tract. This could involve training your dog to heed a strong “leave it” command or even muzzling them if they are a repeat offender. 
• Maintain a consistent, healthy diet. Avoid switching dog foods suddenly or frequently, which can contribute to gastrointestinal upset. In dogs prone to pancreatitis, a low-fat diet can help prevent flare-ups. 
• Schedule routine vet visits. Regular check-ups can help catch potential issues early before they become severe.
• Keep harmful substances off limits. Restrict access to toxic substances like rat poison, antifreeze, and plants that are dangerous to dogs.

If you can’t prevent bloody poop in dogs, the best thing you can do is learn how to treat it properly. Seeing blood in your dog’s stool can be frightening. But if you know what to look for and how to respond, you can act quickly to make sure your pet stays healthy.

Always remember: It’s important to take your dog to the vet if you’re worried about them, even if you suspect their bloody stool isn’t too serious. We’d rather see a healthy dog than miss a sick one!

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Deciding when it’s time to put a cat down is a heartbreaking decision. But it’s crucial to ensure elderly or ill cats don’t suffer as their condition worsens.

While most of us would prefer our pets to die peacefully in their sleep, statistics tell a different story. Research shows that feline euthanasia accounts for over 80 percent of domestic cat deaths. (1) And the leading causes of “natural” cat deaths are trauma, renal disorder, and cancer, (2) all of which can be quite painful.  

As a veterinarian with experience in feline-only practice, I’ve guided countless pet parents on this difficult journey. To help you prepare for this decision, here’s what you need to know about euthanasia. I’ll walk you through how to know if your cat is dying so you can recognize when it might be time to say goodbye. 

Cat Euthanasia: A Humane Option

The term “euthanasia” comes from the Greek words meaning “a good death.” For animals, it’s often a painless, humane way to end suffering due to various diseases, conditions, and injuries. 

Of course, if you’re considering this option for a beloved pet, it’s never this simple. However, it’s important to consider the realities of a sick or elderly cat’s life, as well.

Cats live in the moment. They feel what’s happening now but can’t really comprehend that short-term suffering might lead to long-term relief. If you don’t believe me, try convincing a cat that taking medication might make them feel better in the future. It’s not as easy as it seems.

This lack of understanding makes treating sick or elderly cats difficult. There are practical concerns, like the expense and frustration of convincing cats to take their medication. But there are also ethical issues when treating a senior or sick cat causes them to suffer even more.

For many pet parents, it comes down to one question: What’s more important — the length of my cat’s life or the quality of it? Euthanasia offers cats a peaceful, painless death, making it often the most humane option. It’s a way to ensure sick or failing cats don’t endure unnecessary suffering.

Many pet parents want to know: Do cats know they are dying? While we can’t be certain whether or not they do, we do know that felines do feel pain (even though cats tend to hide their pain). And natural cat deaths often involve pain, fear, hunger, and thirst.

Preventing this suffering is essential, and one of the greatest gifts you can give your cat. 

Putting a Cat Down: What Happens?

When you’ve seen the signs your cat is dying, you can opt for euthanasia as a way to make sure they don’t suffer. But what does that actually entail?

Here’s what to expect: Veterinarians generally start by giving cats a sedative to help them sleep. Then they’ll provide an overdose of anesthetic. This stops your cat’s heart, transferring them from sleeping to death quickly and painlessly.

Typically, the procedure occurs in a peaceful environment at a veterinary clinic or surgery center. However, vets who specialize in at-home euthanasia can provide the service in your home. Depending on the laws in your area, you can often choose to keep and bury their body or send it for cremation. 

Cat euthanasia cost is a concern for many pet parents. Generally, taking your cat to your vet for the procedure is less expensive. If you have somewhere to bury them and local laws allow it, it can cost less than $100.

Costs go up if you choose at-home pet euthanasia or you cremate your cat. There may be financial assistance at the veterinary clinic or from local shelters and charities. Ask your vet for more information about local assistance organizations.  

Most importantly, choosing euthanasia means your cat is now at peace. It’s a kinder, nicer end than a natural death at the end of a chronic disease, which can often take a few days.

8 Signs Your Cat is Dying: What to Look For

As a pet parent, deciding when it’s time to say goodbye to your cat is incredibly difficult. Below are some common cat end-of-life signs that may indicate your pet is nearing the end of their life.

1. Vocalization: If your cat is crying, yowling, or moaning, these are signs your cat is in severe pain. If your vet prescribes pain medication and the behavior persists, it means your cat is still suffering. It may be time to consider euthanasia.
2. Breathing Changes: If your cat is panting, struggling to breathe, or breathing rapidly, these could be signs of pain. They could also be symptoms of advanced heart disease, lung disease, or metabolic conditions. Either way, pet parents should take breathing changes seriously as they may indicate the end is near.
3. Lack of Appetite (Inappetence): It’s not uncommon for cats to go off their food occasionally. However, if your cat refuses to eat for more than 48 hours or can’t keep food and water down, this is a concerning sign. Inappetence is also a common stage of many diseases in cats. So discuss the behavior with your vet immediately to determine the next steps.
4. Weight Loss: Severe weight loss is never a good sign in cats and can be a sign your cat is dying. Sudden, unintentional weight loss is also a warning sign to watch out for. While there may be things your vet can do to help your cat stabilize or gain weight, often the cause is an underlying disease. For example, in cats with kidney failure, severe weight loss and weakness are common signs that the end is near.
5. Poor Grooming: Cats are normally meticulous about hygiene. If your feline stops grooming and allows their fur to get matted or soiled, this can be a sign of serious decline.
6. Collapsing: Unless your cat recently had surgery, sudden collapse or inability to stand in cats is concerning. It suggests severe weakness or dizziness that may not be treatable, especially in an old cat with chronic disease.
7. Disinterest: While hard to assess, your cat’s enjoyment of normal things can tell you a lot about their health. It may not mean much if they ignore a favorite toy once or twice. But if your cat consistently shows no interest in things that once brought them joy, it could be a sign that they are nearing the end.
8. Seizures: If your cat often has seizures despite being on anti-epilepsy drugs, it may be time to say goodbye. The more seizures they have, the more brain damage they may suffer. So frequent or continuous feline seizing is bad news for you and your cat.

Remember, this list isn’t exhaustive or proof positive that your pet is going through dying cat stages. You know your cat better than anyone, so if you have any concerns, it’s best to get them checked at a veterinary clinic.

When to Consider Euthanasia for Cats

Recognizing the signs your cat is dying is just one part of the decision. The problem is that the signs are seldom so clear-cut and absolute. So, how do you know when it’s time to put your cat down?

I usually tell pet parents that there’s a line before which it would be too soon and a line after which it would be too late. The grey zone in the middle comes down to personal preference.

And that can be challenging. Even more so when cats experience a gradual slide into illness that makes it hard to tell when they’ve crossed that invisible line.

Every cat is an individual, and every family is unique, too. Even cats with the same disease may experience different symptoms, and their families may have different lifestyles and priorities. Ultimately, when to consider euthanasia depends on your circumstances.

Many vets recommend using a Quality-of-Life Assessment Tool, which is like a “when to put your cat down checklist.” These tools provide an objective way to assess your cat’s quality of life. There are many tools available, but I like this one from Lap of Love and this one from Dove Lewis.

When to put your cat down: checklist of questions

If you answer ‘yes’ to any of these questions, it might be time to put your cat down:

• Is your cat showing any signs they are dying (listed above)? And has your vet run out of feasible and affordable treatment options?
• Has your cat been diagnosed with a condition that will be difficult to manage due to financial, medical, or behavioral issues?
• Does your cat’s condition prevent them from doing things they enjoy?
• Does your cat have more bad days than good ones?

The decision of when to put your cat down is incredibly personal. But if your answers to the questions above cause concern, please discuss the results with your veterinarian.

It’s common to feel guilty about making the decision to put your cat to sleep. But it’s important to remember your decision is doing your cat the ultimate kindness. 

Making Your Cat’s Last Days Count: 6 Tips and Ideas

Knowing your cat is nearing the end of their life doesn’t mean they can’t still enjoy their remaining time. Here are some ways to make their last days special:

• Tasty Treats: Offer foods or treats they usually don’t get.
• Adapted Play: Modify their favorite games so they can still enjoy them.
• Family Visits: Ensure their favorite family member spends time with them.
• Comfort: Provide extra blankets and cushions for maximum comfort.
• Quality Time: Spend time cuddling, taking photographs, or simply being together.
• Mementos: Consider taking paw prints or hair clippings as keepsakes.

What you choose to do with your cat is up to you and depends on your cat’s personality and medical condition. Don’t forget it’s ok to change your plans for their last days if your cat’s condition suddenly changes. A common saying amongst vets is that euthanasia is “better a day too soon than an hour too late.”

You don’t want your cat to suffer because you’re sticking firmly to your plan. So prepare to be flexible if things change.

Living With Your Decision

Whether you’ve noticed signs that your cat is dying or your vet has suggested euthanasia, the decision is never easy. Being prepared is key to ensuring your cat doesn’t suffer in the final stages of their life.

Deciding when to say goodbye is the hardest choice a pet parent has to make, but it’s an important act of kindness. Your veterinarian can provide support and an objective view of your cat’s quality of life and pain relief options.

It’s also important to give yourself time to grieve and heal following the decision and the loss of your pet. Your vet may also be able to direct you to pet loss support resources.

Remember, this decision is about giving your cat the peace and comfort they deserve after a life well-lived (and loved)!

References:

1. Teng, Kendy Tzu-Yun et al. “Life tables of annual life expectancy and risk factors for mortality in cats in the UK.” Journal of feline medicine and surgery vol. 26,5 (2024): 1098612X241234556. doi:10.1177/1098612X241234556
2. Kent, Michael S et al. “Longevity and mortality in cats: A single institution necropsy study of 3108 cases (1989-2019).” PloS one vol. 17,12 e0278199. 29 Dec. 2022, doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0278199

The post When to Put a Cat Down: 8 Signs a Cat is Dying appeared first on Great Pet Care.

The most common cause of high blood sugar in cats is diabetes. Diabetes treatment for cats typically includes daily medication, such as Bexacat or insulin, as well as properly timed feedings and regular exercise. 

In this article, we’ll cover what high blood sugar is, and what your veterinarian will do if they suspect your cat has high blood sugar. 

What Is High Blood Sugar in Cats?

Your cat’s body runs on glucose, just like the human body. The glucose level in the blood is tightly controlled by feedback mechanisms. This is called glucose homeostasis.

When glucose is absorbed from the gut after eating, an organ called the pancreas recognizes the higher glucose levels and produces insulin. This hormone moves extra glucose into cells where it can be used or stored, keeping the glucose in the blood at safe levels. When blood glucose gets low, the pancreas releases a different hormone called glucagon that tells the liver to release glucose again. This raises the level in the blood back to normal. 

If this control mechanism breaks down, cats can have high blood sugar for a long period of time. The most common reason for this to happen is diabetes. Cats get type 2 diabetes, meaning their pancreas produces insulin but their cells don’t respond normally to it. This causes them to have high glucose in the blood, but because the cells aren’t responding, they are unable to get the glucose into the cells to be used as energy. 

What Is Dangerously High Blood Sugar for a Cat?

A cat’s normal blood glucose is 60–160 mg/dL. With stress, this might rise above normal, but it should drop down again within an hour or two. Sustained levels of over 160 mg/dL are abnormal and should be investigated. 

However, diabetic cats often have a blood sugar of over 400 mg/dL. This is a dangerously high blood sugar for a cat. With this much glucose in the blood, the pancreas will be getting exhausted from trying to produce insulin to counteract the hyperglycemia. In addition, the cells of the body will be starting to starve, as they won’t be getting enough glucose. 

The body recognizes the cells are struggling and starts to break down fat for energy instead. This causes chemicals called ketones to build up in the body, which can lead to serious, life-threatening illness.

Causes of High Blood Sugar in Cats

The most common cause of persistent high blood sugar in cats is diabetes mellitus, usually just called diabetes. Diabetes in cats is fairly common, affecting approximately 1 in 200 cats, particularly males and cats of specific breeds, like Norwegian Forest Cats and Burmese (1).

Temporary, mild rises in blood sugar can be seen at times of acute stress, such as during a vet visit. This is called stress hyperglycemia and is why vets will never assume a cat has diabetes from a single high blood glucose reading. Instead, they will check urine samples and other blood values to prove the blood sugar is staying high.

Symptoms of High Blood Sugar in Cats

In cats who get a mild blood sugar rise when visiting the vet, you’re unlikely to see any symptoms. But cats with long-term high blood sugar levels caused by diabetes experience symptoms such as drinking more and urinating more. You might also notice:

• Weight loss 
• Appetite changes (excessive hunger or no interest in food)
• Blood in the urine (caused by urinary infection)
• Changes in normal grooming, leading to an untidy coat

When blood sugar gets dangerously high and diabetic ketoacidosis develops, you might also see:

• Vomiting
• Lethargy, weakness, or low energy
• Collapse

If you suspect your cat has high blood sugar, you should take them to a veterinarian. If you suspect there could be dangerously high blood sugar, you should contact the nearest open veterinarian as an emergency.

Diagnosing High Blood Sugar in Cats

Hyperglycemia is usually diagnosed with a blood test. Only a tiny amount of blood is needed. The veterinarian may just prick your cat’s paw and collect the blood on a small strip of paper, which is read by a machine. However, a diagnosis of hyperglycemia doesn’t mean much on its own, and the underlying cause will need to be found. 

A physical exam will give clues, but the main results come from blood and urine tests. Alongside the blood glucose test, a fructosamine blood test can help to differentiate transient, stress-induced hyperglycemia from a more severe hyperglycemia caused by diabetes.

Urine tests can also show the presence of glucose, which again points to diabetes rather than a mild and acute high blood sugar caused by stress. Your vet will also check for evidence of a secondary urine infection, which is common in cats with diabetes.

How to Treat High Blood Sugar in Cats

If your cat is diagnosed with high blood sugar, treatment is essential. Without treatment, the blood sugar will continue to rise to dangerously high levels, and they will get diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). This is an emergency, as DKA can quickly become fatal. Prompt treatment not only avoids this potential, but it also increases the chance of a cat going into diabetic remission. Remission means their diabetes goes away and they no longer need treatment. With treatment, about 1 in 3 diabetic cats go into remission (2), according to a recent paper. However, some cats then relapse.

There are two main treatment options for high blood sugar in cats: insulin injections and insulin alternatives.

Insulin Alternatives for Cats with High Blood Sugar

There are now needle-free alternatives to insulin, such as Bexacat (bexagliflozin tablets), that are given orally. Bexacat blocks the kidneys from reabsorbing glucose, meaning extra glucose from the blood exits the body in the urine. Since this tablet is given only once a day, and the dosing is simple, it’s generally easier for pet parents to manage than insulin injections. It’s also slightly less intensive, monitoring-wise. However, Bexacat can’t be used in cats who have already started treatment on insulin — it’s only suitable for new cases of high blood sugar in otherwise healthy cats.

Insulin Injections for Cats with High Blood Sugar

Cats taking insulin require regular injections, either once or twice daily, depending on the product and individual cat response. Although most cats tolerate these regular injections, it can still be difficult for some pet parents to manage. Insulin treatment can also be risky (overdose and underdose are both dangerous), which means intensive monitoring may be needed to find the correct dose. This also makes insulin treatment expensive.

Diets for Cats with High Blood Sugar

Prescription diets can help with high blood sugar in cats. These high-fiber diets help to prevent a blood sugar spike after eating. This helps the body regulate blood glucose levels. While prescription diets may be helpful, they generally can’t be used alone. One study found that more cats achieved remission if fed a low-carbohydrate wet diet than a prescription diabetes diet (2). It’s best to discuss diabetes diets with your veterinarian before making any changes.

General Cost of Treating High Blood Sugar in Cats 

Diabetes can be expensive to treat. In addition to medication costs, cats with diabetes generally need repeated blood sugar checks and visits to the veterinarian. Generally, costs are highest in the first couple of weeks, during diagnosis and when cats need more regular checks. That said, high blood sugar can still be expensive to treat.

In general, you can expect high blood sugar in cats to cost $500-$1,000 in the first month of diagnosis, and then usually around $150-$300 per month thereafter.

How to Prevent High Blood Sugar in Cats

Obese cats are more likely to get diabetes. Maintaining a healthy body weight, and treating cats as soon as possible if they gain weight, is key to preventing high blood sugar in cats. In cats of a normal weight, there is some suggestion that a predominantly dry diet may increase the risk of high blood sugar developing (3). However, the link isn’t clear, so preventing high blood sugar is not a reason to change your cat’s diet if they’re doing well on it. It’s far more important to make sure your cat gets plenty of water and exercise.

Summary

Persistently high blood sugar in cats (also called hyperglycemia) is not normal and should be investigated. The most common cause is diabetes. If left untreated, cats can develop diabetic ketoacidosis, a severe and life-threatening condition. There are several ways to treat feline hyperglycemia. If you suspect your cat might have high blood glucose, talk to your veterinarian.

Related Conditions 

• Diabetic Ketoacidosis
• Obesity
• Diabetes 

References

1. O’Neill, D G et al. “Epidemiology of Diabetes Mellitus among 193,435 Cats Attending Primary-Care Veterinary Practices in England.” Journal of veterinary internal medicine vol. 30,4 (2016): 964-72. doi:10.1111/jvim.14365
2. Rothlin-Zachrisson, Ninni et al. “Survival, remission, and quality of life in diabetic cats.” Journal of veterinary internal medicine vol. 37,1 (2023): 58-69. doi:10.1111/jvim.16625
3. Öhlund, M et al. “Environmental Risk Factors for Diabetes Mellitus in Cats.” Journal of veterinary internal medicine vol. 31,1 (2017): 29-35. doi:10.1111/jvim.14618

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As a pet parent, hearing a diagnosis of dog spleen cancer can be extremely stressful. That’s why I’m going to explain everything you need to know about spleen cancer, so you can make the best decisions for your pet.

What is Spleen Cancer in Dogs?

The spleen is an organ in your dog’s abdomen. It stores blood, filters blood cells, and helps promote immune response by making and storing lymphocytes. Though it does an important job, the spleen is not an essential organ; it is possible to survive without a spleen. 

Cancer is when cells grow or replicate uncontrollably. When these cells form tumors that spread and interfere with normal bodily function, they are classified as malignant. Tumors that form but do not spread or metastasize are benign.  

In canine spleen cancers, it’s typically the cells lining blood vessels that replicate abnormally. These tumors can grow large and eventually pop, causing internal bleeding.

Spleen cancer can be especially dangerous because it doesn’t cause many symptoms at first. So the disease often goes undetected until it’s quite advanced. 

Sometimes, vets discover splenic cancer in dogs when investigating other health concerns. The first case of spleen cancer I diagnosed was in an eight-year-old female (spayed) chocolate Labrador Retriever. I determined the dog’s mild anemia was due to a slowly bleeding spleen tumor. In more serious cases, dogs with spleen cancer may collapse due to severe internal bleeding and require emergency surgery.

Types of Spleen Cancer in Dogs

There are several types of spleen cancer in dogs, each named for the cell type affected.  

Splenic hemangiosarcoma is the most common spleen cancer in dogs. It is a malignant cancer of the blood vessels found in about half the cases of spleen cancer in dogs. 

Vets often cite the “double two-thirds rule” when talking about the risk of this type of spleen cancer. This so-called rule estimates that roughly two-thirds of spleen cancers will be malignant, and two-thirds of those will be hemangiosarcoma. (1)

A recent review suggests the likelihood could be even higher — with 70 percent of splenic tumors found to be malignant and 83 percent of malignancies found to be hemangiosarcoma. (2)

The balance of malignant spleen cancers in dogs may include lymphomas, histiocytic sarcomas, and osteosarcomas, among others.

Non-malignant tumors can include hematomas, abscesses, nodular hyperplasia, or benign hemangiomas.

Causes of Dog Spleen Cancer

Spleen cancer in dogs is just a random mutation in the cells making up the spleen. It has no cause as such, and there’s nothing you can do to predict or prevent spleen cancer from developing. Because splenic tumors are slightly more common in German Shepherds, Cocker Spaniels and Labrador Retrievers, there may be genetic risk factors at play. (3)  But more research is needed to determine what roles genes play in canine spleen cancer.

Symptoms of Spleen Cancer in Dogs

The symptoms of spleen cancer in dogs are often hard to detect. In the early stages, a veterinarian is more likely to discover a tumor while investigating other health issues or during a regular physical exam.

But as spleen cancer progresses, if tumors grow large enough or are damaged by a knock or a fall, they can burst, causing internal bleeding.  

While you may not be able to see the bleeding, you might notice related symptoms, including:

• Pale gums
• Low body temperature
• Reluctance to move, lethargy, or weakness
• Abdominal swelling
• Increased heart rate and fast breathing

These symptoms may suddenly improve if the bleeding stops on its own, but it will always start again at some point. 

Splenic tumors can be very fragile, and eventually, the spleen will be too damaged by the tumor to stop bleeding on its own. The more blood dogs lose at this point, the more risky surgery becomes. So it’s crucial to act quickly and visit your veterinarian if you suspect your dog might have spleen cancer.

Dog Spleen Cancer Stages and Progression

Spleen tumors start microscopically small and then gradually grow larger. In the earliest phase, there’s nothing obviously wrong with the spleen. Even if a vet were able to examine it visually, nothing would appear amiss. 

In the next phase, the spleen starts to change. However, since there are no other symptoms, its abnormal appearance often goes undetected…unless, by chance, your dog requires abdominal imaging or surgery for some other reason.

In the late stages of spleen cancer, tumors on the spleen often start bleeding. This generally means the tumor is fairly large. If it’s a malignant one, there’s a high chance that the tumor has spread at this point. 

As with most cancers, early detection and treatment will give your dog the best outcome. Ideally, you’d want to remove the tumor before it starts bleeding or spreading. The problem is that it’s hard to spot spleen cancer early as there are often no signs. 

Bringing your dog in for regular checkups as they get older may help to catch a tumor, but it’s not always possible for your vet to feel a tumor on a physical exam (depending on its size and location).

Diagnosing Hemangiosarcoma in Dogs

If you suspect your dog may have spleen cancer, or if you’re simply worried because your dog’s breed faces a greater risk, talk to your veterinarian about your concerns. Your vet can conduct a thorough exam to evaluate your dog’s condition.

First, your veterinarian will perform a physical exam, paying particular attention to gum color, heart rate, and feeling the abdomen. 

Blood tests are often a good idea. They can detect the presence of concurrent issues, like kidney disease in dogs, as well as conditions that may be caused by splenic tumors, like anemia. This is an important step, but it won’t get a diagnosis on its own. 

Generally, hemangiosarcoma and other dog spleen tumors are diagnosed with imaging. Ultrasound is a good option for the spleen itself, but X-rays can also be used to diagnose spleen cancer. It’s a good idea to X-ray the chest and ultrasound the heart, as malignant tumors may already have spread to these areas, making spleen removal pointless.

If the tumor has not spread, your veterinarian will need to send a sample of it to the lab for analysis to determine if it is malignant or benign. While sampling the tumor with a needle is possible, it could also cause the tumor to bust. Instead, it may be easier to remove the spleen and send a sample of the tumor to the lab afterward.

Canine Spleen Cancer Treatment Options

In all cases of spleen cancer, the recommended treatment is a splenectomy — the surgical removal of the entire spleen. This is because even benign masses are prone to bursting and causing life-threatening internal bleeding. Removing the spleen prevents this from happening and also allows the tumor to be sent to a laboratory for identification. 

Of course, splenectomy in dogs isn’t the only option. If the tumor isn’t actively bleeding, you may decide to leave it alone. But you need to be aware that, at some point, it will start bleeding, which makes surgery more risky. 

As mentioned earlier, more often than not, lab results will indicate that the spleen tumor is malignant. In these cases, chemotherapy may help improve the life expectancy in dogs with spleen cancer. However, this dog cancer treatment can be costly, and may not be appropriate for all dogs, depending on their age and other health concerns. In some cases, pet parents may decide not to treat their dog’s spleen cancer and, instead, euthanize their dog when they show signs of internal bleeding. It’s impossible to predict when this could happen, as it depends on how early the tumor is diagnosed.

Cost to Treat Spleen Cancer in Dogs

Spleen removal in dogs is a major abdominal surgery. It can be performed by many vets (you don’t necessarily need a specialist surgeon). However, it is one of the more complicated surgeries we see in general practice. This means that it can be expensive, and pet owners should expect to pay around $800 to $1,500 for the surgery alone. 

Depending on the stage of their disease and whether they’re actively bleeding, dogs may also need blood transfusions, extended hospitalization, and chemotherapy. This could increase the cost of treatment to $4,000 or $5,000. 

Costs can also vary depending on your area. Your veterinarian will be able to give you an estimate so you can plan financially for treating your dog’s spleen cancer.

Prognosis for Spleen Cancer in Dogs

For dogs lucky enough to have benign tumors (about 30 percent of dogs), if they survive surgery (which about 95 percent of dogs do), they can look forward to a good prognosis and normal life expectancy. Unfortunately, the prognosis for dogs that have a malignant tumor is less promising. One study of over 200 dogs found that, on average, most survived only a couple of months post-splenectomy. Those treated with chemotherapy survived a bit longer. And early detection was the factor that had the greatest impact on longer survival rates. (4)

How to Prevent Spleen Cancer in Dogs

Unfortunately, canine spleen cancer can’t be prevented. The best thing that you can do as pet parents is try to catch it early, as removing malignant tumors before they have a chance to spread gives the best result.

Summary

Spleen cancer in dogs is relatively common. There are several types, depending on the cells involved. About 30 percent of dogs have the benign type, and 70 percent have malignant types, with most of those being hemangiosarcoma. 

Unfortunately, even with treatment, the prognosis for dogs with malignant spleen cancer is poor. Early detection (before the tumor spreads) is the best defense we have against this condition.

References

1. Spangler, W L, and P H Kass. “Pathologic factors affecting postsplenectomy survival in dogs.” Journal of veterinary internal medicine vol. 11,3 (1997): 166-71, doi: 10.1111/j.1939-1676.1997.tb00085.x.
2. Schick, Ashley R and Janet A Grimes. “Evaluation of the validity of the double two-thirds rule for diagnosing hemangiosarcoma in dogs with nontraumatic hemoperitoneum due to a ruptured splenic mass: a systematic review.” Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (2022): 1-5, doi:10.2460/javma.22.08.0389.
3. Corvera, Gloria, et al. “Pathological characterization and risk factors of splenic nodular lesions in dogs (canis lupus familiaris).” Animals, vol. 14, no. 5, 5 Mar. 2024, p. 802, doi: 10.3390/ani14050802. 
4. Wendelburg, Kristin M., et al. “Survival time of dogs with splenic hemangiosarcoma treated by splenectomy with or without adjuvant chemotherapy: 208 cases (2001–2012).” Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, vol. 247, no. 4, 15 Aug. 2015, pp. 393–403, doi: 10.2460/javma.247.4.393.

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Once cataracts have started, they generally can’t be stopped. Apart from blindness, cataracts can also cause other problems in the eye, including glaucoma and lens luxation, which are both painful. While medications can make these side effects of cataracts less likely, they won’t be able to prevent them entirely. 

Cataract surgery is another option for treating your dog’s cataracts. While it’s more expensive in the short term, it does save your dog’s sight — and considerably reduces the risk of these side effects from happening.

Let’s take a look at cataract surgery for dogs, what it is, and what to expect if your vet recommends your dog has their cataracts operated on.

What Is Cataract Surgery for Dogs?

Cataract surgery is a type of eye operation that removes your dog’s cataracts. We’ll delve more into what it involves in a moment. For now, let’s just say that your dog’s eyeball is opened, and the cloudy lens is removed. Some dogs will have an artificial lens inserted instead, but even without this step, their vision is improved. 

Cataract surgery restores your dog’s vision, although they may still have some visual deficits, such as long-sightedness. 

Vets usually recommend cataract surgery in dogs who are young, with a long life expectancy. Cataracts need to be recent to have the lowest chance of side effects — hyper-mature cataracts aren’t good candidates for surgery. 

Dogs need to have a reasonable temperament for cataract surgery too, thanks to an extended stay in hospital and the need to have eye drops multiple times a day for several weeks after their operation.

Alternatives to Cataract Surgery for Dogs

As mentioned earlier, cataracts can be managed, rather than treated with surgery. In canine cataract management, the eyes are monitored with regular appointments. One study showed that nearly half of canine cataracts had complications, such as uveitis or glaucoma (1). Medication is usually prescribed to treat any side effects of cataracts. 

This is a common way of dealing with canine cataracts, but it won’t treat the problem, and your dog will eventually lose their sight. Dogs can adapt really well to being blind, so this is still a commonly chosen option, especially if dogs are elderly, their diabetes isn’t stable, or they have other illnesses that mean cataract surgery is too risky. 

What Does Cataract Surgery for Dogs Involve?

The first thing to do is to make sure your dog is a candidate for cataract surgery. Your veterinarian will do a series of tests for general health and on the eyes.

Once your dog is given the go-ahead, they’ll be booked for the cataract surgery procedure. This will involve a general anesthetic, so you won’t be able to stay with them. Instead, you’ll usually drop them off in the morning, often without having had breakfast (but let your vet guide you on this, especially in diabetic patients).

Once your dog is fully asleep under the anesthetic, the eye area will be carefully cleaned to reduce the chance of infection. Your vet will then make small cuts in the cornea (the outer layer of the eye) over the lens. The lens is then broken up using high-frequency vibrations (a process called phacoemulsification) and the mushy lens is removed using suction. If your dog is receiving an artificial lens, this will be inserted next. Lastly, the cornea is sewn back together again.

Pros and Cons of Cataract Surgery for Dogs

Cataract surgery can be life-changing, especially in congenital or hereditary cataracts, since these dogs often get cataracts at a young age while otherwise healthy. Their vision will be improved, and if an artificial lens is placed, it can be almost normal, allowing them to live a normal life. 

Compared to medications, dogs who have cataract surgery are also less likely to have complications and painful secondary conditions. One study suggests medicating cataracts is four times more likely to result in failure (e.g., painful secondary diseases or euthanasia) than doing surgery (2). 

However, cataract surgery is expensive (more on this next), and not all dogs are good candidates. It’s also a specialist procedure, meaning you may have to travel to find a vet who can perform the operation. A 90 percent success rate may sound good, but it still means 1 in 10 dogs will have complications, which may mean the loss of their sight anyway. Complications can happen months or years down the road, which means your dog will need ongoing monitoring for their eyes (although this is also the case in dogs who have their cataracts managed rather than treated). Recovery from cataract surgery is also long, with dogs needing their activity restricted for four weeks, having to wear a hard plastic cone, and requiring regular medication, including eye drops multiple times a day.

Cataract Surgery for Dogs Cost

Cataract surgery is a specialist procedure, requiring highly trained vets and expensive equipment that isn’t available in all hospitals. This, coupled with the several days in hospital post-op, with trained staff applying medications several times a day, means the costs of cataract surgery in dogs are quite high. 

Pet parents can expect to spend $2,000-$5,000 for cataract surgery, with the cost varying depending on location, post-op care, follow-ups, and any complications. In some cases, both eyes can be operated on at once, reducing overall cost (compared to doing both separately) but still costing more due to increased surgical time and aftercare.

Cataract Surgery for Dogs Recovery Time

Different vets do things differently, but most will hospitalize your dog for a few days post-surgery. This allows them to carefully monitor your dog as well as give them intravenous pain relief drugs to keep them comfortable. At this point, your dog will be on a cocktail of topical eye drops, each of which will need to be applied 4-6 times a day and never at the same time as the others. By hospitalizing their patients, the vet can ensure your pup gets the right drug at the right time, and make any changes to the regimen depending on how your dog responds.

Once your dog is considered stable, it’s time to bring them home. Dogs will be discharged with careful instructions you should follow, but here’s the general gist. 

Eye drops: 2-3 medications given every 4-6 hours, usually for at least a month

Pain relief: Oral pain relief, usually given once daily

E-collar: A hard plastic collar, bigger than usual, that prevents them from walking into anything and damaging their eye as it heals

Activity restriction: For four weeks, dogs shouldn’t exercise off-leash or be allowed to jump onto the sofa, etc. 

Harness: Your dog will need a harness rather than a collar or leash that attaches to their neck. This is to avoid increased ocular pressure from neck compressions

Follow-up visits: At a minimum, your dog will need to re-visit the vet a week or so after going home, then a few weeks later. You’ll also need to visit a couple more times over the next year to check for slow-to-develop complications.

For at least a year after the operation, you’ll need to monitor your dog’s eyes for signs of complications. Redness, appearing sore, and loss of vision should all be reported to your vet immediately.

Before the surgery, it’s a good idea to put some work into training your dog with cues to help them post-op (such as “steps!” to let them know there are steps coming). You can also get them used to having their face held and eyes touched, giving them treats whenever they let you do what you need to do.

Conclusion

Cataract surgery for dogs can make a huge difference to their quality of life. However, not all dogs are suitable candidates for the surgery. As a specialist procedure, it is expensive and potentially inaccessible for many. 

If your dog develops cataracts and you’re interested in cataract surgery, talk to your vet and they can guide you.

Reference

1. Fischer, M C, and A Meyer-Lindenberg. “Progression and complications of canine cataracts for different stages of development and aetiologies.” The Journal of small animal practice, 10.1111/jsap.12910. 22 Aug. 2018, doi:10.1111/jsap.12910
2. Lim, Christine C et al. “Cataracts in 44 dogs (77 eyes): A comparison of outcomes for no treatment, topical medical management, or phacoemulsification with intraocular lens implantation.” The Canadian veterinary journal = La revue veterinaire canadienne vol. 52,3 (2011): 283-8.

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In this article, we’ll cover what a pup’s normal thirst level should be, how to tell when they’re drinking excessively, and the main causes of excessive drinking in dogs. 

Normal vs. Excessive Thirst in Dogs 

Since what’s “normal” is different for different dogs, it can be hard to tell if a dog is drinking too much. Generally, normal “maintenance” water requirements are about 50 ml of water per kilogram of body weight per day – dogs should be getting that as a minimum, although moisture in food should also be taken into account. [1] It’s also important to note that some dogs will drink more than this, which isn’t necessarily a problem.

Some of the things that influence how much a dog normally drinks include:

• Diet (amount of moisture in food and intake of salts)
• Environmental temperature and humidity (a hot day, heating, air conditioning, etc.)
• Exercise and activity level (a working dog vs. a sedentary dog)
• Size of dog (large dogs drink a higher volume than small dogs)
• Hormones (in unneutered dogs, especially females in heat)
• Nursing pups 

While larger dogs drink more water than smaller dogs in terms of volume, this is proportionate to their size. There’s no association between age, gender, or breed when it comes to the amount drunk over the course of a day, once you take the dog’s activity level and lifestyle into account.

In general, most dogs (like most humans) will drink consistently throughout the day, having a little more after a walk, when it’s hot, after they eat, or first thing in the morning. In other words, if they have free access, most dogs will visit their water bowl several times during the day, drinking “little and often;” however, it can be normal for dogs to drink less frequently if they’re sleeping or busy.

What Is Polydipsia in Dogs? 

Polydipsia in dogs simply means “excessive thirst” or “excessive drinking.” It usually goes hand-in-hand with polyuria (excessive urination), either because the dog is drinking more and peeing out the excess, or because the dog is peeing more and drinking more to keep up. 

Officially, polydipsia has a cutoff point of 100 ml per kilogram of bodyweight per day – any higher than this and a dog is definitely polydipsic and there’s something wrong. However, there’s a large “gray zone” where a dog’s water intake may be below 100 ml, yet they’re still polydipsic.

Why Is My Dog So Thirsty? 12 Causes to Consider   

Once you know what’s normal for your dog, you can be tuned in to abnormal drinking or excessive thirst. If you’ve noticed your dog drinking more, you’ll be wondering why they’re so thirsty. There are a number of serious conditions that can cause excessive thirst in dogs. Let’s look at why your dog is so thirsty in more detail.

Pyometra

Pyometra is a serious infection of the uterus in unspayed females. It causes excessive thirst, excessive urination, and vomiting. Without prompt treatment, it can be fatal. 

Cushing’s Disease

Cushing’s disease is a complex condition where a dog produces too much cortisol (a stress hormone), usually due to a benign tumor on their adrenal gland. In addition to excessive thirst, dogs with Cushing’s will urinate more than normal, eat more than normal, and gain weight, alongside developing a pot belly. It’s managed with medication but is not curable.

Kidney Disease

In older dogs, kidney disease can develop after lots of small kidney injuries add up throughout their lives. Kidney damage can also happen quickly after exposure to toxins. Either way, the kidneys become less efficient, meaning affected dogs pass more urine than they should. They then drink more to remain hydrated. It’s not curable, but diet, medication, and lifestyle changes can support the kidneys.

Liver Disease

Dogs with liver disease may also experience excessive thirst, alongside yellow eyes and gums (jaundice), vomiting and diarrhea, or appetite changes. Unlike the kidneys, the liver can heal if given enough support and time. Medication may be needed to protect and help the healing process once the cause has been treated.

Diabetes Mellitus

Diabetes mellitus (often just called “diabetes”) in dogs happens when dogs stop producing sufficient insulin – the molecule that helps carry glucose out of the blood and into storage. This then causes a build-up of glucose in the blood, and the kidneys try to remove the excess. Sugar in the urine “draws out” the water, meaning dogs with diabetes urinate more – and they then need to drink more to keep up. Excessive thirst is one of the key symptoms of diabetes in dogs, alongside excessive urination, weight loss, and hunger. Diabetes can be managed with insulin injections.

Diabetes Insipidus

Not to be confused with diabetes mellitus, this is a very different disease. Diabetes insipidus is caused by the lack of antidiuretic hormone (ADH), which helps the kidneys to concentrate urine. Without this, the kidneys produce very dilute urine, which means dogs need to drink more to keep hydrated. The main symptoms of diabetes insipidus are polydipsia and polyuria, and it’s usually diagnosed after other more common causes are ruled out. The condition can be managed but not treated.

Vomiting and/or Diarrhea

Increased fluid loss through vomiting and diarrhea will also cause excessive thirst, as dogs drink to replace what they’ve lost. The underlying cause will need to be investigated and treated.

Cancer

Some cancers cause increased thirst, usually due to changes in biochemistry in the body. This is a rare cause of polydipsia, though, so your vet will rule out the more common causes first.

Diet

A change to a dry diet may cause increased water intake, as dogs will be getting less moisture from their food. This isn’t concerning and will eventually settle down to a new normal level.

Climate

Hotter and drier climates cause increased water intake, as dogs lose water by panting. This doesn’t just relate to outdoor conditions, however: artificial heating and air conditioning can change temperatures and humidity indoors, leading to changes in water intake.

Medication

Some medications cause thirst, most notably steroids (like prednisone) or diuretics (like furosemide). If your dog has recently started new medication and is now thirsty, you can talk to your vet about whether the medication is the cause and whether there are changes that can be made to reduce this side effect.

Exercise

Exercising increases water loss, so dogs need to drink more water to rehydrate. This is coupled with the fact that most dogs don’t get the opportunity to drink while exercising. It’s normal for dogs to drink more if they’ve been exercising, whether it’s a long hike or a quick run around. 

Increased Thirst in Dogs: When to Worry

Generally, temporary increased thirst is not a concern, especially if there’s an obvious cause. If your dog drinks more because they ran out of water and you’ve just filled it up, they have been for a run, or it’s a hot day and they fell asleep in the sun, that’s okay. But if the thirst lasts more than a day or two, it’s time to consider a vet visit. 

If there’s no emergency (see below), it can be helpful to measure their water intake over a 24-hour period. You can do this by filling a large bowl with a known amount of water, then measuring what’s left 24 hours later. This is useful information for your veterinarian as it can help to work out whether a dog is definitely polydipsic or just drinking a bit more.

You should book a vet visit if you notice other symptoms such as:

• Urinating more, or having accidents in the house
• Vomiting or diarrhea (especially if they aren’t keeping food down)
• Weight changes

In addition, you should find an emergency clinic if your dog is:

• Panting or struggling to breathe
• Overheated (heat exhaustion)
• Collapsed
• Unneutered and had a season in the last couple of months
• Passing blood or pus

How to Prevent Excessive Thirst in Dogs

Remember: like us, dogs need to stay hydrated. That means they should have access to water at all times. Restricting their water is not a good way to prevent dogs from drinking too much or peeing in the house, and you should instead find a veterinarian to get to the bottom of the problem. If your dog is on medication, talk to your veterinarian before restricting water.

While you’re waiting for an assessment, make sure your dog is getting plenty of water. Switching to wet food (or adding water to their dry food), providing several large water bowls around the house, or trying a water fountain may be good options. 

Dog Drinking Too Much Water? What to Do

It’s possible for dogs to drink so much water in a short space of time that they get “‘water poisoning” or “water intoxication,” which is rare but can be fatal. This is usually the case for dogs who play with garden hoses or in wading pools or open water as a way to stay cool – especially if they’re smaller breeds and spend longer than 15 minutes in the water at a time. Symptoms include appearing drunk, lethargy, nausea, vomiting, and glazed eyes. This is an emergency, so you’ll need to get to your nearest veterinary clinic immediately. 

Excepting this scenario, dogs don’t tend to drink too much water and will urinate out anything extra. Some people worry that their dog is drinking excessive water and urinating in the house, but remember, drinking too much is a symptom, not the cause of the excessive urination. This is why it’s important that you don’t restrict water in dogs, even if it seems to be going straight through them.

Dog Drinking a Lot of Water: FAQs

Why does my dog throw up after drinking water?

Some dogs will drink a lot of water in one go, then throw up – possibly because of the sheer volume of water in their stomach. This isn’t too concerning as long as it’s occasional, but you should ensure that your dog can keep down water – if they’re unable to do so, you need to visit the vet urgently. 

If you find your dog vomiting after drinking water only occasionally, you can try to encourage them to drink more frequently so they don’t take in as much in one go – multiple bowls around the house and wetter food are two good options.

Why is my dog drinking more water than usual in winter?

If it’s winter and you notice your dog drinking lots of water suddenly, there are a couple of possible causes. If there’s been no recent change to diet, exercise, or indoor heating, you should consider measuring their water intake and calling your vet for advice. Many of the diseases that cause excessive thirst are treated more easily if caught early.

Do dogs drink a lot of water before they die?

Drinking water isn’t a sign of impending death, but many of the causes of excessive thirst can be fatal if not treated. It’s best to get excessive drinking checked out by your vet as soon as you see symptoms so your pet can get the treatment they need.

Reference:
Schoeman, Johan P. “Approach to Polyuria and Polydipsia in the Dog.” (2008) Veterinary Information Network. Retrieved from: https://www.vin.com/apputil/content/defaultadv1.aspx?id=3866513&pid=11268

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Dog Pinched Nerve: What is it?

So, what is a pinched nerve? Well, the name is a little misleading, as “pinched nerves” in dogs are not quite the same as “pinched nerves” in humans. In humans, a pinched nerve refers to inflammation or pressure on the nerve root as it leaves the spine. This doesn’t often happen in dogs, but dogs get very similar symptoms from pressure on the spinal cord itself, leading to the common name being applied, even though it’s not quite correct.

What’s usually happening when a dog gets a pinched nerve is that something is pressing on the spinal cord. The cord runs inside the spine, protected on all sides by each spine bone (vertebra). But between each vertebra is a disc of cartilage (vertebral discs) that cushions the bones and helps them move together comfortably. This cartilage is a weak spot, and the most common cause of dog pinched nerves is this cartilage bulging or bursting, therefore bruising or squashing the spinal cord. Other causes of pinched nerves include tumors in the spine or blood clots affecting the spinal cord, but these are relatively rare. 

What Causes a Pinched Nerve in Dogs?

As discussed, a pinched nerve is a non-specific name, not a diagnosis, so it can mean several things to different pet parents. 

We’ve listed the most common causes of pinched nerve symptoms in dogs here:

Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD)

The most common cause of a pinched nerve in a dog’s back is intervertebral disc disease (IVDD), which accounts for 74% of sudden back pain in dogs, although it can also occur in the neck. [1] While all breeds can be affected by IVDD, this disease is more common in certain breeds, such as Dachshunds and Basset Hounds. This is because they have genes that cause poor cartilage (chondrodystrophy), which helps form their petite stature. Unfortunately, it makes them more prone to IVDD. 

As it’s a degenerative condition, IVDD is more likely to occur as a dog gets older. It’s rare for dogs under 2 to have this condition. Excess weight can exacerbate the condition, and certain types of exercise (like jumping) are thought to make it more likely. The lower back is the most common site for this issue.

There are two main types of IVDD, called Hansen Type I and Hansen Type II. Hansen Type I is when your dog’s discs bulge, causing a “slipped disc,” while Hansen Type II happens when the disc bursts, ejecting the thick inner jelly into the spinal canal. The symptoms are very similar with both types, and either can look like a pinched nerve.

Fibrocartilaginous embolism

In fibrocartilaginous embolism (FCE), blood flow to part of the spine is prevented due to a blockage in the blood vessels. This blockage is “fibrocartilaginous” – it’s made of material similar to that of the intervertebral discs. FCE is acutely painful and can look like a dog has a pinched nerve. Unlike IVDD, it’s more likely in large or giant breeds who do not have chondrodystrophy. 

Spinal tumors

Tumors of the spinal cord or spinal bones can cause dog pinched nerve symptoms. These are thankfully very rare. The symptoms are exactly like those of IVDD and other causes of spinal pain, so tumors would only be diagnosed with advanced imaging.

7 Symptoms of a Pinched Nerve in Dogs

If your dog develops signs of a pinched nerve, it’s essential you take them straight to the veterinarian. Here are some of the symptoms of a pinched nerve in dogs you should be on the lookout for:

Crouching or appearing stiff

Depending on whether the problem is in your dog’s neck or back will change exactly what this looks like, but dogs with nerve pain have a very stiff posture and will be hunched, trying to protect the painful area.

Unwilling to sit down or lift head

With a pinched nerve in a dog’s neck, symptoms can include holding their head low and being unwilling to lift it. If it’s in their back, they’ll be unwilling to do the stairs or sit down and may have difficulty pooping as they can’t hold the position comfortably.

Unsteady “drunken” walking or stumbling on feet

Unsteady walking, as though drunk, is a sign that dogs don’t have full control of their legs and can be a sign of a pinched nerve. Dogs may also be seen stumbling over their feet.

Weakness in limbs/dragging

When the disc problem or FCE affects the lower spine, you’ll see signs of nerve damage in your dog’s back legs. These symptoms may include weakness, their feet folding over (“knuckling”), or dragging one or both limbs due to the dog’s back legs not working. The worse the paralysis, the more urgent the problem; complete non-weight-bearing on the hind limbs is a severe sign and will usually require urgent surgery to correct.

Extreme pain

Owners often report hearing a yelp when a dog gets an FCE or IVDD. However, if you don’t witness the incident, you may not detect a yelp, so don’t rule out a dog pinched nerve if you don’t hear anything. Dogs will also show other signs of pain like panting or being aggressive when the area is touched.

Dribbling urine or unable to urinate

Being unable to urinate is another severe sign of pinched nerves in dogs. Some dogs will have an “overflow dribble,” which isn’t in their control. This is usually coupled with complete paralysis of the back legs and suggests that urgent intervention is needed.

Panting, shivering, hiding, or clinginess

Dogs with pinched nerve symptoms caused by IVDD or FCE are often anxious, as they’re in pain and nervous about being debilitated. Signs of stress and anxiety, along with any of the symptoms above, should be taken seriously.

When to See a Veterinarian

When a dog has pinched nerve symptoms, you should schedule a same-day visit with your veterinarian (the sooner, the better). If you can’t get an urgent appointment with your usual veterinarian, you should call the nearest open emergency clinic and see whether you can get an appointment there. Your dog will need pain relief and an examination; in some cases, they may also need a referral for advanced imaging (such as an MRI) and surgery to reduce the compression on the spinal cord.

Dogs with pinched nerve symptoms should see a veterinarian as soon as possible, as they are extremely painful. Some problems, especially IVDD, can also get worse if not treated. While dogs that are treated quickly can make a long-term recovery, those that are ignored can have lasting nerve damage resulting in euthanasia. 

Dog Pinched Nerve Relief: How to Help

Again, the most important thing you can do for your dog with a pinched nerve is take them straight to a veterinarian. Because dog pinched nerve symptoms can have a few causes, you’ll need to get a diagnosis before you can attempt any home treatment for dog pinched nerves. 

When your veterinarian gives you the go ahead to take your dog home, they’ll also give you home care advice. This may include keeping them confined to a crate for days to weeks to allow a full recovery or helping them urinate by expressing their bladder if they can’t do this themselves.

You’ll also need to give pain relief medications as directed. Most dogs will have several medications to help with pain. These may include sedatives like gabapentin and trazodone or different NSAIDs for dogs.

Additionally, you can ask your vet about whether the following will help:

• Hydrotherapy, physiotherapy
• Heat or cold therapy (i.e ice packs or warmed packs)
• A diet to help reduce weight

Home Remedies Are Not Recommended

There are no specific home remedies that are safe to recommend for dog pinched nerve signs, as the exact cause and severity make each case unique. Instead, you should follow your veterinarian’s advice carefully and discuss your dog’s case with them.

A lot of people ask about massage for dogs with pinched nerves. You shouldn’t try massaging as relief for pinched nerves in a dog. This is because these dogs are usually in major pain, so touching the area may cause them to lash out. In addition, it’s unlikely to work since dogs don’t get the same “pinched nerves” as humans do. Their problem is usually right inside their spine, where your massage can’t reach.

Because there’s no way to tell the exact cause of your dog’s spinal pain without imaging, and they’re usually in severe pain, don’t try any remedies at home before calling the vet. Urgent veterinary care is the best way to ensure your dog’s nerves recover so they can get back to being their usual crazy selves!

Reference:

Olby, Natasha J et al. “Prognostic Factors in Canine Acute Intervertebral Disc Disease.” Frontiers in Veterinary Science. Vol. 7 596059. 26 Nov. 2020, doi:10.3389/fvets.2020.596059

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Regardless, most veterinarians see umbilical hernias pretty regularly. While the majority of dog umbilical hernias are mild in severity, some can be more serious or even life-threatening, so it’s important that all puppy parents are aware of them. 

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at umbilical hernias in puppies, how serious they can be, and how to treat them.

What Is an Umbilical Hernia in Puppies?

An umbilical hernia in puppies looks and feels like a small, soft lump right in the center of their tummy, where their umbilical cord attaches. Because it’s a lump, some people mistake a puppy hernia for a dog belly button, but it isn’t: a belly button is the scar from an umbilical cord healing, and a hernia is a pouch filled with fat or intestines. 

Dogs with an umbilical hernia have a defect in the muscles of their abdomen. Instead of the muscles meeting in the middle, there’s a hole. When the hole is very small, it may not even be noticeable. When it’s bigger, bits of fat can slip through the hole and even get stuck there, forming a small lump. If it’s a large enough hole, bits of gut can also fall through. This is dangerous, especially if the gut loop becomes stuck and loses blood flow. 

The seriousness of an umbilical hernia in a puppy depends on the size of that hole. It’s rare, but umbilical hernias that are large enough to allow guts to fall through can cause death in a young puppy, so getting a veterinary opinion early on is a good idea.

What Causes a Puppy Umbilical Hernia? 

Umbilical hernias in puppies are usually congenital, which means they are present at birth. Most umbilical hernias in dogs happen because the umbilical ring (where the umbilical cord feeds through) fails to close. 

The exact cause for this failure to close isn’t clear, but the suspicion is that most causes are genetic, as umbilical hernias are more common in certain lineages. Therefore, it is recommended that breeders don’t breed with affected puppies. 

Umbilical hernias may also be more common when dogs are indiscriminately bred. However, not all puppies in a litter will have the problem, and it’s not yet clear which gene is at fault, so it’s likely that the root cause is complex.

An umbilical hernia is usually present from birth and can be corrected even when it’s very small, but if it goes unnoticed (or is not corrected), it can impact an adult dog as well. 

Generally, umbilical hernias are less serious as dogs get older, as their guts grow too big to fall through the hole. The exception is when a dog herniates after surgery, which is not technically an umbilical hernia but may look like one.

Symptoms of Umbilical Hernia in Puppies

The most common symptom of an umbilical hernia in puppies is the soft swelling in the area of the umbilical cord. Puppies don’t have a protruding “belly button,” so if you feel a soft lump on your puppy’s tummy, it’s probably a hernia. This lump may come and go as fat slips in and out, and may be more visible when your dog is defecating or coughing. Most dogs show no other symptoms of their umbilical hernia, and it’s not uncommon for it to go unnoticed until dogs are at the vet for their health checks.

In more serious cases, dogs will show more symptoms of an umbilical hernia. In addition to the physical swelling (which may become larger or harder), these might include:

• Biting, scratching, kicking, or nudging the area due to pain or discomfort
• Pain in the area when touched, which might show as a squeal or aggression when being picked up or stroked
• Pain in the area after eating, which may show as paying the area attention, reluctance to move, or guarding themselves 
• Vomiting
• Inappetence

In all cases, these symptoms are a sign that the umbilical hernia is more serious, so your puppy should be examined by a veterinarian urgently. 

Diagnosing Umbilical Hernias in Dogs

Umbilical hernias are typically diagnosed at a puppy’s first examination, or during their first vaccinations. In fact, they are so common that checking for them is routine at early puppy appointments.

An umbilical hernia is diagnosed with a physical exam; the location and feel of the lump in a dog of the right age is usually enough to diagnose a hernia. Your veterinarian will then offer an opinion as to how large and how serious the hernia is.

In some cases, your veterinarian might recommend more tests. For a large hernia, checking the lump with an ultrasound can help determine whether the gut has fallen through the hole.

Types of Umbilical Hernias in Puppies

Your veterinarian may refer to your dog’s hernia as “reducible” or “non-reducible.” If the hernia can be “reduced” by pushing the fat back through the hole, it’s “reducible.” If it can’t because the fat is stuck, it’s “‘non-reducible.” This can help indicate the size of the hole, whether it’s easy to correct, and whether it’s likely to cause a problem. In general, reducible hernias are less of a concern, but that doesn’t automatically mean that a non-reducible hernia needs urgent surgery.

Umbilical Hernia: Puppy Treatment Options

When necessary, umbilical hernias in puppies are treated with surgery. However, not all umbilical hernias need treating, and even those that do require surgery may not need it immediately. Many times, a veterinarian will treat an umbilical hernia when the dog is being neutered.

Your vet will take your dog’s size and age, the hernia size, and the hernia contents (i.e fat vs gut) into account, as well as whether the hernia is reducible. 

No Treatment

A small, reducible hernia in a young dog can usually be left alone. Dogs will sometimes outgrow the condition, as the hole tends not to grow with the dog. You’ll be advised how to monitor the hernia at home and encouraged to return to your vet if there are any concerns about the hernia in future.

Surgery

If your veterinarian determines that the hernia is potentially going to cause a problem, it could mean surgery at some point, whether on its own or while your dog is being neutered. Again, you will be given instructions on monitoring your dog in the meantime, and if you aren’t planning to have your dog neutered, or will be neutering them later in life, you may decide to go ahead and get the surgery done sooner.

Immediate Surgery

Lastly, some puppies will need urgent surgery if the umbilical hernia is large enough that the dog’s guts can slip in. This type of hernia will be operated on within a few days to prevent problems. If the gut is already trapped, the surgery should be done as soon as possible to save it. Surgery is a lot more risky at this stage, and recovery is longer.

Are There Home Remedies for Dog Hernias?

There are no home remedies for hernias in dogs, but most cases can be monitored at home and may never need surgery. It’s a good idea to check with your vet at the earliest opportunity if you suspect a hernia so you know exactly how likely the hernia is to cause a problem and what warning signs you should be on the lookout for.

Cost of Umbilical Hernia Surgery for Dogs

The cost of umbilical hernia surgery will depend on when the hernia is repaired, and whether it’s an emergency. A standard repair, done at the time of neutering, will usually be an “add-on” cost and likely under $100. 

If your dog isn’t being neutered at the same time, additional anesthetic will be required, in which case the costs are likely to go up — although you can still expect them to be under $400 in most cases.

In serious cases, where emergency surgery is required, costs will go up again. This is because your puppy will need more medication, more specialist care, and more surgical skill. In the worst cases, your dog will lose a portion of their gut, which is a complex and risky surgery that will require several days of hospitalization. Costs could be in the range of $1,000 to $3,000, depending on the severity and the geographic region.

The sooner hernias are treated, the cheaper and easier the surgery is likely to be. If costs are a concern, explain this to your veterinarian — they will help you find the most cost-effective solution so your puppy can have the surgery ASAP.

Umbilical Hernia: Puppy Care Post Surgery

The most important thing after umbilical hernia surgery in puppies is to limit their exercise, including play and jumping. The hernia is usually repaired by cutting the muscle and then stitching it back together again, just like an incision would be repaired after a neuter surgery or other abdominal surgery. But excessive exercise can cause swelling, and jumping could even cause a stitch to break, opening the hernia back up again. 

You’ll also need to prevent your puppy from interfering with (licking, chewing, scratching, or biting) the wound, as this can cause infection or break the stitches. Recovery from this sort of surgery is usually seven to 10 days, but it will vary with the seriousness of the hernia and whether the dog was neutered at the same time. Of course, your veterinarian will give you detailed post-surgical advice for your dog, and you should contact them if you have any questions.

How to Prevent Umbilical Hernias in Puppies

It’s not possible to prevent umbilical hernias after a puppy has been born. If you are purchasing a puppy, you can ask whether hernias have been found in previous litters from the same mother, or whether the mother herself had a hernia, but this isn’t a guarantee. Most people won’t remember or don’t know whether their dog had a hernia as a puppy, and hernias can still occur even if the dam didn’t have one herself. 

If you are thinking about breeding your dog and you want to prevent umbilical hernias, be sure to look at your dog and their siblings, as well as the potential father and their siblings. The fewer hernias are seen in the dog’s family history, the better the chance of preventing them in the pups. Do not breed dogs with umbilical hernias, or whose close relations had umbilical hernias.

Reference:

Gonzales, K.L., Famula, T.R., Feng, L.C., Power, H.M.N. and Bullis, J.M. (2021), “Folic Acid Supplementation Does Not Decrease Stillbirths and Congenital Malformations in a Guide Dog Colony.” J Small Anim Pract, 62: 286-292. https://doi.org/10.1111/jsap.13292

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What is Cat Eye Discharge?

Your cat’s eye is a delicate structure. To protect itself from drying out, the eye is regularly lubricated with tears, which are drained away. Cat eye discharge happens when this process goes wrong. It can be due to too many tears being produced, the drainage route being blocked, or a cat eye infection. 

Although common, eye discharge in cats indicates something isn’t happening correctly. All cats with eye discharge should have a check-up with a veterinarian. How quickly that check-up needs to happen depends on how long your cat has had watery eyes – if your cat’s eye discharge is new, they should go to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Kittens and new cats to the home with eye discharge should also head to a vet as soon as possible. If an adult cat has had the eye discharge for months or years, they should still go to the vet, but as long as there are no other symptoms, it can usually wait a week or two until a convenient time.

What Does Eye Discharge in Cats Look Like?

Cat eye discharge can vary in color and thickness. Watery eye discharge is usually caused by overproduction or overflow of tears. You might not see the tears themselves, but the fur on one or both sides of the nose will be wet and crusty when dry. If your cat has white fur, these “tear stains” may appear pink or red-brown due to pigments in their tears. 

Eye discharge from an infection is usually yellow or green and is usually thicker or sticky. Brown eye discharge can also be from a cat eye infection. It dries very crusty. You’ll see this collecting in the inner corner of your cat’s eye, spilling over and collecting alongside the nose.

A cat with bloody eye discharge or red eye discharge should visit the veterinarian urgently, as it’s likely they have an eye injury and are in some pain.

Because the fur and skin are constantly wet, if a cat has eye discharge, they often have sore or infected skin under their eyes. This can irritate, so you may see your cat rubbing their face with their paws or using furniture to itch the area. 

You may also see cat pink eye, also known as conjunctivitis. This is when your cat’s conjunctiva (the pink inside of the eyelids) becomes swollen and visible. Conjunctivitis isn’t a diagnosis, it’s a symptom – your vet will still have to find out the cause. 

Causes of Cat Eye Discharge

Feline Upper Respiratory Infections (‘Cat Flu’)

The most common cause of cat eye discharge is feline upper respiratory infection, commonly called cat flu. While several infectious diseases can cause cat flu, the most common is feline herpes virus. This virus causes other flu symptoms, too – cats frequently sneeze, have discharge from the nose, and are generally under the weather. Eighty percent of cats never get rid of the virus entirely – it comes back when they’re stressed or their immune system is weakened. In some cats, all the symptoms will return, but many will only get signs of conjunctivitis (sore, swollen eyes and eye discharge from one or both eyes). 

Cat sneezing and eye discharge are usually cat flu, but that doesn’t mean it should be taken lightly – feline herpes virus can cause blindness when severe.

Trauma and Injuries to the Cornea or Eye

Another common cause of eye discharge in cats is an injured cornea. The cornea is the outer surface of the eye. Scratches to the cornea are very painful and cause the eye to water significantly, causing a watery eye discharge, although this can go yellow or green once infection sets in. Cats will often also hold their damaged eye closed in a squint. The damage is sometimes visible to the naked eye but often needs a special dye to diagnose correctly.

If your cat is squinting in one eye and has discharge, your cat will need urgent medical attention.

Foreign Body

Foreign bodies (such as another cat’s claw from a fight) are painful, no matter where they lodge. Cats with a foreign object in their eye are likely to be squinting, blinking a lot, and holding their eye closed, with plenty of watery discharge. If not treated, the discharge will become thicker and yellow as infection occurs. 

A foreign body in the eye often causes injury to the cornea, so your cat may have both conditions. Both need urgent treatment.

Blocked Tear Ducts

Another reason for cat eye discharge is a blocked tear duct. The tear duct is a small tube that drains the normal tears from the eye into the nose. If this tube is blocked due to an infection or inflammation, tears won’t drain properly and instead spill over, causing eye discharge. This type of discharge is usually thin and watery, as it’s just normal eye lubricant. 

Although blocked tear ducts in cats aren’t an emergency, the type of discharge is very similar to other more serious conditions, so you should always get a diagnosis from a veterinarian.

Allergies and Irritants

Just as our eyes water when we get hay fever, so will a cat’s. If your cat’s eyes only water at certain times of year, allergies may be involved. You may also see sneezing or asthma in these cases. Airborne irritants can also cause watery cat eyes – bleach, ammonia, and other strong scents can cause a cat’s eyes to water. 

Allergies and irritants aren’t usually emergencies, but it’s still best to see a veterinarian to rule out something else. Remember that some irritants may also be toxic – for instance, some essential oils often used in scented products are toxic to cats [1]. This could cause eye-watering but also cause other symptoms like drooling and vomiting – you should seek treatment urgently.

Uveitis

Uveitis happens when a particular eye part (the iris and ciliary body) becomes inflamed. It causes eye discharge in cats because it’s so painful – you’ll also see blinking and squinting in one or both eyes, and the discharge is usually clear. Uveitis is usually caused by an infection (viruses, bacteria, and fungi have all been implicated to varying degrees in different countries). Eye damage, eye tumors, diabetes, and high blood pressure are also sometimes at fault. Uveitis needs urgent medical attention because it’s extremely painful and can result in blindness if left untreated.

Eyelid Problems (Entropion)

Entropion is a condition where the eyelid rolls in, causing the eyelashes to rub the eyeball. It’s very irritating, and affected cats will have continually watery eyes. They’re also prone to eye infections, thickening the discharge and turning it yellow or green. Cats are usually born with this condition, although anything that changes the shape of the eyelid (such as a tumor or swelling) can cause entropion. A vet should assess possible entropion, which can cause corneal injury, recurrent infections, and blindness.

Face Shape (Conformation)

Eye discharge is common in some cat breeds, especially brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds like the Persian. In one study, 83 percent of Persians and Exotic Shorthairs had eye discharge [2]. This is likely due to the shape of their face making eye injury more common, increased likelihood of entropion (which affected 32 percent of the cats in the study), or their squashed noses compressing their tear ducts. 

Even if you think your cat’s eye discharge is due to their breed, you should get them assessed by a vet to rule out entropion or other conditions making it worse.

Dental Disease

Because the tear duct runs from the corner of the eye down to the nose, it passes very close to several tooth roots, especially the upper canines. Severe dental disease, especially a tooth root abscess, can cause swelling in the upper jaw [3]. This compresses the tear duct and causes eye discharge in cats. 

A vet should assess eye discharge related to dental disease and treat it as it’s very painful.

Eye Discharge in Cats Treatment

Cat eye discharge treatment depends on the exact cause and varies from no treatment to surgery.

For eye discharge caused by face shape, no treatment is usually needed. Cat flu cases may also receive no treatment if the infection appears entirely viral, without evidence of a secondary bacterial infection.

In many cases, cat eye drops will be necessary. Depending on the exact medication used, these can provide pain relief, reduce inflammation, or help combat eye infections. Corneal injuries, secondary eye infections, and severe cat flu will usually be treated with antibiotic eye drops.

For some cases of eye discharge, surgery will be recommended. This is the case for eye discharge caused by dental disease, entropion, or foreign bodies in the eye. Blocked tear ducts can also be flushed under sedation, removing the blockage. 

Once your veterinarian has determined the cause of your cat’s eye discharge, they will discuss the treatment options. If you have cost concerns, please discuss these with your vet at the earliest opportunity – they will help you to find an affordable option.

Cat Eye Discharge Home Remedies

You should never use home remedies for cat eye discharge before speaking to a veterinarian. This is because some causes of cat eye discharge can result in blindness without proper treatment. 

Some cat eye conditions can be helped at home once your veterinarian has diagnosed the problem.

If your veterinarian diagnoses your cat with eye discharge caused by cat flu, improving their diet to help their immune system cope may help to prevent flare-ups. 

If your cat has eye discharge caused by their face shape, you may not be able to improve the discharge, but you can help by keeping the skin clean to prevent infections. Cooled boiled water on a cotton pad can be used to clean the eye discharge. Your vet might also recommend a wipe or solution to help keep infections at bay. 

How to Prevent Eye Discharge in Cats

There are several things you can do to prevent cat eye discharge and protect your cat from developing this condition. 

The first is to know the risks. As mentioned, flat-faced cat breeds are prone to developing cat eye discharge. So if you just can’t resist those adorably squished faces, then be extra vigilant about care and prevention measures for these breeds. 

No matter what shape your cat’s face is, one key way to combat eye discharge in cats is to have your cat properly vaccinated. The FVRCP vaccine, a core vaccine for cats, can help protect against cat flu, one of the leading causes of eye discharge in cats. 

But bear in mind that there are many causes of cat flu, and they may already have caught it, so the vaccination won’t prevent every cat flu case.

You can also prevent dental disease by regularly brushing your cat’s teeth and inspecting their mouth for bad smells or tooth damage. This means the disease can be treated before it develops into an abscess that damages the tear ducts.

There isn’t much that can be done to prevent accidental damage, trauma, and foreign bodies. Not letting your cat out may help, but damage can still occur in the house. Airborne irritants are also more likely if your cat spends a lot of time indoors – if this is the case, check your cleaning materials carefully and avoid using anything too strong. 

Conclusion

Eye discharge in cats is very common, as it can occur for several reasons. You should never attempt home treatment before attending a veterinary clinic for a proper diagnosis, as delaying adequate treatment can result in blindness. It’s impossible to prevent all the causes of eye discharge, but ensuring your cat receives proper care throughout their life and keeping up with their vaccinations can help you reduce the risk of eye discharge in your cat.

References

1. Benson, Kia. “Essential Oils and Cats.” Pet Poison Helpline, 6 Mar. 2020, www.petpoisonhelpline.com/blog/essential-oils-cats/.
2. Anagrius, Kerstin L., et al. “Facial Conformation Characteristics in Persian and Exotic Shorthair Cats.” Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, vol. 23, no. 12, 2021, p. 1089–1097, https://doi.org/10.1177/1098612X21997631.
3. Anthony, James M. G., et al. “Nasolacrimal Obstruction Caused by Root Abscess … – Wiley Online Library.” Wiley Online Library, 7 Mar. 2010, onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1463-5224.2009.00754.x.

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You aren’t alone. Arthritis is extremely common in senior cats, with some studies suggesting there’s X-ray evidence of it in over 90 percent of older cats, even if they’re doing a great job of hiding their symptoms [1].

Although feline osteoarthritis is a progressive disease that will continue to worsen, cats with arthritis can live for a long time as long as their pain is managed. Let’s take a closer look at just how long this might be, as well as some of the treatment options open to your feline family member.

How Long Can a Cat Live with Arthritis?

Arthritis is not a life-limiting disease in itself, but it is painful. When we can manage their pain, cats with arthritis can live a normal life. But at some point, the pain becomes too much for the medications, and we need to consider euthanasia to protect their welfare. This is called a quality-of-life decision, and it’s something that every pet owner needs to be prepared to do. 

It’s very hard to predict how long a cat can live with arthritis, as it depends on individual factors like how well they tolerate being given medication, whether they have other diseases, and how old they are when they start showing signs of arthritis. 

According to a recent study in the U.S., cat life expectancy at birth is around 12 years, with some cats living into their 20s [2]. Since the chance of getting arthritis increases with age (and peaks at around 10 years), it’s quite likely that your cat is coming toward the end of their life when they’re diagnosed with arthritis anyway [3]. At that point, the chance of them getting other diseases – like kidney disease or some types of cancer – is higher too. 

Young cats with severe arthritis may only live for a year or two. Older cats with mild signs of arthritis might live for several years, unless they get another condition that complicates treatment or causes them more problems than the arthritis itself.

Cat Arthritis Treatment Options

The most important aspect of care for an arthritic cat is pain relief. Arthritis is known to be painful, and it’s usually this pain that results in cats with arthritis being euthanized. That means that the better the pain relief, and the better your cat tolerates it, the longer they’re likely to live. 

Since every cat’s arthritis is different, and every cat has a unique personality, the treatment options vary. Some treatments can have adverse effects, and while these should be monitored, they shouldn’t be a reason not to give the medication, as pain relief is so important when dealing with cat arthritis. Your veterinarian will help you determine which arthritis treatment for cats is the best for your kitty.

These are some of the most common cat arthritis medicines you might be offered:

NSAIDs

Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs are the mainstay of therapy for cat arthritis. They are usually well tolerated, with liquid and tablet forms available for daily dosing at home and several different drug options if your cat dislikes one. 

Your veterinarian may recommend against these drugs if your cat’s kidneys aren’t working properly, as using these drugs may cause further kidney problems and decrease life expectancy further. However, they may also recommend you cautiously continue, especially if there aren’t many other arthritis treatment options available to your cat. Vets will often say “quality of life over quantity of life” in these circumstances. In other words, the NSAIDs may reduce the life expectancy in these cats, but at least they’ll be pain-free.

Gabapentin

Gabapentin is well tolerated in cats and can be chosen for its pain-relieving properties. It’s not usually the first medication veterinarians will reach for, but it’s often used as an adjunct when NSAIDs are no longer sufficient on their own.

Opioids

Opioids are difficult to give long-term to cats, as they don’t often come in oral forms and are expensive. Your veterinarian may recommend a short course of opioids as very strong pain relief while waiting for other drugs to take effect. They may also be used in late stages to keep very arthritic cats comfortable.

Frunevetmab

While not widely available yet, this brand-new drug has changed how vets treat arthritis in cats. Given by injection, Frunevetmab is a monoclonal antibody, which means it’s actually a modified part of the immune system. Instead of attacking foreign objects or viruses, Frunevetmab blocks pain receptors to help cats with arthritis feel more comfortable, which has been life-changing in many cases.

Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs)

Omega-3 fatty acids are anti-inflammatory and have proven benefits for pets with arthritis. EFAs can slow the progression of arthritis and should be used as soon as it’s suspected to get the full benefit. As they are not a drug, they can safely be given to most pets, with gastrointestinal upset being the most common side effect. EFAs are often found in cat joint supplements, or included in special “arthritis diets.”

How to Help Cats with Arthritis

There are also lots of things you can do at home to help a cat with arthritis live as comfortably as possible for as long as possible. 

Physical Therapy

It’s unlikely that your cat will be happy traveling to a physiotherapist on a regular basis, but learning some skills to keep their muscles in tip-top condition at home can help provide more comfort for a cat with arthritis. You can train your cat to do exercises at home using treats or food, which can help strengthen their muscles. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation for a cat physiotherapist.

Environmental Changes

You can also change some things at home to make your cat’s life more comfortable. Keep food and water easily accessible, so your kitty doesn’t have to jump to get there. If they have a favorite high-up spot, try giving them steps or a ramp to reach it, rather than forcing them to jump. You might want to invest in a litter tray with lower sides, or a low access area, so your cat doesn’t have to move so much to get in. A warm bed will be especially welcome, as will any extra padding you can give them. 

Handling

When it comes to how to carry a cat with arthritis, it’s important to be gentle. As you’re handling, petting, or carrying them, be mindful that they may be sore. Try not to move joints if you can help it, and be careful where you squeeze. Cats with painful osteoarthritis can be grumpy, which means they may be more likely to lash out than usual.

Weight Loss

If your cat is overweight, helping them get to a more comfortable weight can be beneficial. Not only will this reduce the dose of drugs they need, it will also reduce the pressure on their joints and may mean they can (temporarily) come off drugs altogether. Talk to your veterinarian about your cat’s ideal weight and how to reach it safely.

Monitoring

You also need to keep a close eye on your cat’s symptoms and response to treatment. Best sure to do this regularly and frequently, as well as whenever there has been a change in medication. While you can just observe your cat, sometimes it’s hard to be objective about how they’re doing, especially since cats hide signs of pain so well. Questionnaires like the Feline Musculoskeletal Pain Index can be a good way to make sure you’re assessing your cat properly and in the same manner each time.

Understanding the Stages of Cat Arthritis

Although vets don’t tend to formally ‘stage’ cat arthritis by giving it a grade like they might for a heart murmur, feline arthritis can be thought of in a few stages:

• At risk
• Preclinical
• Clinical

At Risk

“At risk” cats are those who have had a previous joint injury or are overweight – these cats are very likely to have joint problems and owners might want to start joint supplements at an early age. This stage of arthritis doesn’t have any major impact on life expectancy.

Preclinical

“Preclinical” cats are those who have evidence of arthritis on their X-rays, but that don’t have obvious symptoms. This is the majority of cats, as they’re masters at hiding signs of pain. Unfortunately, it’s not possible at this stage to tell how much pain cats are in and how quickly they will become worse.

Clinical

Cats with “clinical” arthritis are showing signs of pain; this suggests severe arthritis, and it’s time to start treatment or consider euthanasia. Cats showing signs of pain have a limited life expectancy – they’ll need to start daily medications, and you’ll have to regularly assess their quality of life. The real telling point will be once they’ve started medication. If they drastically improve, they’re likely to cope for longer than if the drugs make little difference.

Talk to your veterinarian about your cat’s arthritis as soon as you notice signs, such as your elderly cat struggling to walk or jump. Cats are excellent at hiding signs of pain, which means that cats with symptoms usually have bad arthritis. This doesn’t mean it isn’t manageable, though! Some cat parents may worry that the vet will tell them to euthanize their pet, but that’s not going to happen unless you’ve tried all of the treatment options and they aren’t working, or you refuse to treat your cat.

Cat Euthanasia: How to Tell When it’s Time 

Most arthritic cats will be euthanized due to another disease process, or due to the pain being too severe for the treatments available. Once your cat is showing signs of arthritis, you need to watch their quality of life and be prepared to make a decision when they appear to be suffering.

It’s often hard to tell whether cats are in pain, and this can make it difficult to know when to euthanize a cat with arthritis. Your veterinarian will be able to talk through your cat’s symptoms at any stage of your arthritis journey and help you assess whether your cat still has quality of life. They might suggest you think about:

• Whether your cat can still do things they enjoy
• Whether your cat is limping, yowling, or showing other signs of severe pain
• Whether there are more good days than bad days

Remember, your veterinarian won’t force you to euthanize your cat, and they won’t automatically recommend euthanasia just because your cat is old. The sooner you reach out to them, the more help they can give you to make your cat comfortable until you know it’s time.

Feline arthritis is incredibly common, but most cats hide the signs of pain until it’s severe. Talking to your vet at the earliest opportunity can help reduce your cat’s pain and slow down the progression of arthritis, allowing them to live a happy life for longer.

References

1. Lascelles, B Duncan X et al. “Cross-sectional study of the prevalence of radiographic degenerative joint disease in domesticated cats.” Veterinary surgery : VS vol. 39,5 (2010): 535-44. doi:10.1111/j.1532-950X.2010.00708.x
2. Montoya, Mathieu et al. “Life expectancy tables for dogs and cats derived from clinical data.” Frontiers in veterinary science vol. 10 1082102. 21 Feb. 2023, doi:10.3389/fvets.2023.1082102
3. Clarke, S P et al. “Prevalence of radiographic signs of degenerative joint disease in a hospital population of cats.” The Veterinary record vol. 157,25 (2005): 793-9. doi:10.1136/vr.157.25.793

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Because it’s so common, it’s important to know what this disease is and how veterinarians treat it. Let’s discuss mitral valve disease in dogs in more detail. 

What Is Mitral Valve Disease?

Mitral valve disease (MVD) in dogs is a disease of the heart. The mitral valve is a valve that sits between the left atrium and the left ventricle to prevent a backflow of blood when the heart contracts. It changes shape due to the disease, meaning it doesn’t fit the space properly. 

Instead of preventing a backflow of blood, the thickened, misshapen valve leaks, causing blood to flow back the wrong way. This is why the condition is sometimes called mitral valve regurgitation. Veterinarians can hear this backflow with a stethoscope as a heart murmur.

This backflow of blood causes problems. It means the atrium isn’t empty when new blood enters, so less blood can fit in. Because less blood is being pumped, a dog’s heart has to pump faster to get the same amount of blood around the body, which causes the heart to grow larger, taking up more space in the chest. Because less blood can fit in the atrium, there’s a build-up of blood returning from the lungs. Even though the atrium grows in size to accommodate the excess blood, the backlog eventually causes fluid to accumulate in the lungs. This is called congestive heart failure, and it’s the end stage of mitral valve disease.

Mitral valve disease in dogs is a degenerative change that happens as pets age, so it’s more common in older dogs. Some dog breeds are more prone to MVD and may get degenerative heart changes and a heart murmur earlier in life. It’s most common in dogs under 44 pounds – however when dogs over 44 pounds are affected, they have a worse prognosis. It’s also more common in males than females, although we aren’t sure why.

Causes of Dog Mitral Valve Disease

Mitral valve disease is a degenerative disease – it gets worse over time, with the valves slowly becoming more thickened and less able to control the flow of blood. We don’t know entirely what causes mitral valve disease in dogs, but there are several contributing factors. 

Genetics definitely play a large part, as is seen with some breeds being more affected than others. Breeds at higher risk of mitral valve disease include:

• Cavalier King Charles Spaniels
• Miniature Schnauzers
• Miniature Poodles
• Shih Tzu
• Maltese
• Cocker Spaniels
• Chihuahuas
• Pomeranians

As well as breed and genetics, we know that some other things are associated with a higher risk of MVD in dogs. Bacterial infection of the heart valves (called endocarditis) is one thing that increases the risk of mitral valve disease in dogs. While severe endocarditis is rare, some diseases, like periodontitis – a common dental infection – can introduce bacteria to the blood that can damage the heart valves.

Symptoms of Mitral Valve Disease in Dogs

The first symptom of mitral valve disease in dogs is usually a heart murmur. This is usually not audible without a stethoscope, so you may not realize your dog has a heart murmur until a routine visit with your veterinarian. 

As your dog progresses through the stages of MVD, they will get more symptoms. These include:

• Heart murmur (as this worsens, you may be able to hear it without a stethoscope)
• Coughing (especially when your dog gets up after resting, or at night)
• Lethargy
• Reluctance to exercise
• Breathlessness/fast breathing
• Difficulty breathing
• Weight loss
• Fainting and collapse

Diagnosing Mitral Valve Disease in Dogs

In a small breed dog who is getting older, mitral valve disease is highly likely, so if your vet hears a murmur during a routine examination, they will often make a presumptive diagnosis. For treatment purposes, a definitive diagnosis and disease staging is useful. 

Your veterinarian will need to run blood tests, take your dog’s blood pressure, and will recommend an ultrasound, an X-ray, or both. This heart ultrasound may need to be done by a specialist, so you may be referred to a cardiologist to have these tests completed. 

Not only do these tests confirm that your dog has mitral valve disease (rather than another heart disease of dogs), but working out the stage of the disease allows vets to decide when to start treatment, and which medications to use.

Stages of Dog Mitral Valve Disease in Dogs

When diagnosing mitral valve disease in dogs, vets will diagnose a ‘stage’ of the disease. These stages are labelled A-D, and are based on which clinical signs are present. They were suggested by the world’s top canine cardiologists in the ACVIM consensus and are very useful for planning treatment. 

Dogs start at a lower stage (A or B), and progress through the stages as their disease worsens, with stage D being the last – and most severe – stage. Let’s look at the stages of MVD in more detail:

Stage A

Stage A dogs are those that are at high risk, but who don’t currently have abnormalities. They don’t have a heart murmur, and there would be no changes on heart ultrasound or on an x-ray. Every dog in the high-risk breed list above can be considered to have stage A mitral valve disease. 

Stage B

Stage B describes dogs that have physical changes from mitral valve disease (which may result in a heart murmur), but that have not had symptoms of heart failure. These dogs will usually have had a heart murmur picked up on a routine exam. If further investigations into these murmurs are undertaken, stage B dogs can also be separated into two further categories – B1 and B2. 

• Stage B1 describes dogs that have a murmur and no physical changes to their heart shape or size.  It can also include dogs with a heart murmur that have very minor changes to their heart shape or size.
• Stage B2 describes dogs that have a murmur and significant changes to heart shape or size. 

This separation has come because the results of a clinical trial suggested that medicating dogs in the B2 category can help – if your dog’s heart changes meet a set of predetermined criteria, the benefit of medication is higher than the risk, and your vet will recommend they start treatment. These dogs are still stage B though, as they haven’t yet had heart failure symptoms.

Stage C

Dogs in stage C have a heart murmur, physical changes to their heart, and have (or have had in the past) symptoms of heart failure, such as coughing. These symptoms don’t have to be current, because dogs may have been started on treatment and the symptoms have lessened or temporarily disappeared. However, it’s important to remember that this is a progressive disease – despite initial good response to treatment, all dogs will eventually have further episodes of congestive heart failure.

Stage D

Stage D dogs have all of the above, but their heart failure is now so severe that standard treatments are no longer effective. Advanced or even surgical treatments are now necessary to maintain the dog’s quality of life. This is end-stage mitral valve disease in dogs, and at this point you will need to carefully monitor your dog’s quality of life and consider euthanasia when it becomes poor.

Mitral Valve Disease Treatment and Management for Dogs

It’s important to understand that dog mitral valve disease will progressively get worse, even with treatment. However, treatment can slow the progression of the disease, as well as give your dog a better quality of life for longer. The type of treatment your dog requires will depend on the stage, with treatment recommendations starting at Stage B2. 

Treatment for Mitral Valve Disease Stage A

Your dog will not need any treatment, but you may request regular monitoring or screening as they get older..

Treatment for Mitral Valve Disease Stage B1

No treatment is indicated for dogs with stage B1 MVD, but it’s recommended you carefully monitor them at home and that X-rays/ultrasounds are repeated in 6-12 months. 

Treatment for Mitral Valve Disease Stage B2

At this stage, your vet will start to recommend some low-risk treatments. This includes changing your dog’s diet to a low salt option, ensuring that it has enough calories and protein to help your dog maintain their weight as the disease progresses. 

A medication called pimobendan may also be recommended – this will need to be given twice daily for the rest of your dog’s life. Regular measurements of your dog’s resting breathing rate can offer an early warning system for heart failure. 

Treatment for Mitral Valve Disease Stage C and D

As dogs progress to stage C and D, other drugs are added to the mix. Alongside pimobendan, your dog may be prescribed furosemide, torsemide, spironolactone, benazepril, digoxin, or amlodipine. Omega fatty acids may also be recommended. 

You will need to carefully monitor your dog at home, ensure they eat properly, and keep good track of their medications. They may need to be admitted to the hospital for oxygen therapy and high-dose injectable drugs in severe episodes. Once these episodes have quietened back down, your dog can usually return home with adjustments to their medications. 

At these later stages of canine MVD, your dog will usually be visiting the vets every couple of months for monitoring visits.

Surgery for Dogs with Mitral Valve Disease

Recently, mitral valve repair and replacement surgeries have been trialled on dogs, with some good success. There are a few specialist centers in the world that can repair or replace the mitral valve in dogs. It’s generally used in dogs of stage C or more, as this surgery obviously has significant risks, but some stage B2 patients may also be eligible. You will need to be prepared to travel, often a long distance, to get heart surgery for your dog, and your dog needs to be well enough for the journey. 

Mitral Valve Disease in Dogs: Life Expectancy

The average life expectancy of a dog with mitral valve disease is just a year once dogs are in stage C.

Every dog is different, and they will go through the stages of mitral valve disease at different rates. Small dogs tend to progress through the stages more slowly than large dogs, who can have a far worse prognosis. 

Cost to Treat Mitral Valve Disease in Dogs

As mitral valve disease is progressive, costs will increase over time as more and more treatments are necessary. To begin with, investigations into a murmur heard at a routine examination are likely to cost $300-$700, depending on exactly which tests are necessary. This should be covered by your dog’s insurance, as long as you took out the policy before your vet heard the heart murmur. 

Once dogs are into stage C, the huge variety of drugs they require, plus regular consultations to ensure they’re getting the right dose, can quickly add up. Budget $50-$150 per month, with money in reserve for a hospital stay. Luckily, insurance policies should also cover this stage, although with some time-limited policies, your time might be up before your dog reaches this more intensive (and expensive!) stage of treatment.

Surgery is extremely expensive, as it’s a specialist procedure requiring many highly trained personnel, extensive monitoring, and complex equipment that is expensive to maintain. This sort of procedure is well beyond most insurance policies, coming in at around $30,000. You’ll also need to factor in travel to the surgery and an extended stay, especially if they don’t operate in your country.

How to Prevent Mitral Valve Disease in Dogs

Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do to prevent mitral valve disease in dogs. Keeping your dog’s teeth clean will reduce the risk of bacteria in the blood damaging the heart valves. While this may help some cases however, it isn’t the main cause of MVD, and many dogs will get the disease despite having good teeth. Scheduling regular check-ups with your veterinarian should lead to early diagnosis, meaning you can start treatment as soon as it’s indicated. You should also consider only buying puppies from parents who are regularly undergoing heart checks, especially if you’re purchasing a puppy that belongs to a breed predisposed to MVD.

Conclusion

MVD is a common, life-limiting disease that steadily gets worse over time. It’s unpredictable how fast dogs move through the stages of MVD, with some dogs staying in stage B1 for a very long time, meaning they can have a great quality of life with little to no interventions. 

Once dogs have signs of congestive heart failure, interventions increase, costs increase, and their prognosis becomes poorer.

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Although they are rare, kidney stones can be serious and cause an emergency in some circumstances. Spotting the symptoms early and starting treatment as soon as the condition is diagnosed is key to ensuring dog kidney stones don’t cause kidney failure.

What Are Kidney Stones?

Your dog’s kidneys are part of their upper urinary tract. They’re there to filter waste products from the blood into a fluid we call urine. Urine produced by a kidney collects in the renal pelvis before flowing down a tube called the ureter, into the bladder. From there, the urine is released voluntarily through the urethra to be voided into open air.

A urinary stone (urolith) happens when some of the mineral waste products in the urine come out of solution. Instead of remaining dissolved in the urine, being swept away and released with the urine, they form a solid stone. This happens when the pH of the urine is no longer ideal to keep the minerals dissolved. 

The exact minerals that kidney stones are made of depends on your dog’s diet among other things, but the most common are:

• Struvite (43 percent of stones)
• Calcium oxalate (47 percent of stones)
• Urate
• Cystine
• Silicate

When these stones form in the kidney, we call them nephroliths, renal calculi, or kidney stones. They are relatively rare in dogs, and often an incidental finding – meaning your dog may not show any symptoms, and the stone is seen on an X-ray while investigating an unrelated issue such as hip pain. 

You might be wondering which dogs get kidney stones. There are some breeds of dogs that are more likely to suffer from kidney stones. These are mostly small toy and terrier breeds, including the Yorkshire Terrier, Pugs, Lhasa Apso, Shih Tzu, Bichon Frise, and Pekingese. Some bigger breeds are prone to kidney stones too: Basset Hounds, Mastiffs, Doberman Pinschers, Dalmatians, and English Bulldogs are all over-represented. 

Calcium oxalate stones are more common in males, while struvite stones are more common in females. According to one study, dogs in the South Atlantic region of the USA are more likely to get renal stones.

Kidney Stones vs. Bladder Stones in Dogs

Kidney stones and bladder stones are formed in the same way, and the only difference is where the stone happens to form. Bladder stones are a lot more common in dogs, as minerals have more time to form a stone while it’s sitting in the bladder. 

Bladder stones and kidney stones can have similar symptoms, but bladder stones are more likely to be symptomatic, while kidney stones are more likely to be incidental (they show no symptoms). 

Dogs can also get both bladder stones and kidney stones at the same time.

What Causes Kidney Stones in Dogs?

Kidney stones in dogs occur when minerals in the urine don’t stay dissolved. Instead, they form a solid, stone-like material. This is usually just a few crystals at first, but if these crystals lodge in the kidney they collect more crystals, eventually forming a kidney stone. 

Diet

What foods cause kidney stones in dogs? While there are no specific foods that cause kidney stones in dogs, renal stones are more likely with certain diets. High mineral diets mean there are more minerals to move through the kidneys, increasing the chance of them precipitating out. Some diets also cause acidic or alkaline urine – if the pH of the urine changes, the minerals will not be able to stay dissolved. Diets made by reputable companies that carefully keep to AAFCO recommendations are less likely to cause kidney stones, as they won’t have high mineral levels.

Breeds and Genetics

Dog kidney stones are also more likely in certain breeds – differences in how breeds metabolize proteins or how their kidneys function may explain this. For example, all Dalmatians lack an enzyme for processing uric acid (a by-product of protein digestion), meaning they have high levels of uric acid in their urine. This is highly likely to form urate stones, but low-purine diets can help. The gene that causes this problem has also been found in some other breeds, including Bulldogs. 

Urinary Tract Infections (UTI)

Urinary tract infections can cause struvite stones to form because some bacteria produce urease, an enzyme that causes alkaline urine. Although these stones are usually lower in the urinary tract, as this is where most dogs get an infection, struvite stones are sometimes found in the kidneys. Female dogs are more prone to urine infections than male dogs, but it’s important to keep an eye out for symptoms in most genders. Some anatomical abnormalities increase the risk of urine infections, so it’s a good idea to get repeated UTIs investigated.

Highly Concentrated Urine

The more concentrated the urine is, the less water is available to dissolve the minerals, increasing the risk of them precipitating out and forming a kidney stone. Highly concentrated urine can happen if dogs are dehydrated, perhaps on a hot day when their water bowl runs dry or after prolonged exercise. Dry food diets do not cause dehydration, but they do mean that dogs need to drink more of their water intake, rather than getting it in their diet. It’s always important that dogs have access to plenty of fresh water, but especially on hot days, during exercise, or if their diet is dry.

Symptoms of Kidney Stones in Dogs

Some dogs get symptoms of kidney stones, but some do not. Whether or not a kidney stone causes symptoms is often related to exactly where in the kidney it forms, as well as whether it prevents urine from flowing out of the kidney. 

Some renal calculi can form in such a way that they block the ureter and cause a build-up of urine in the kidney – this is painful and an emergency situation. On the other hand, some renal calculi will form in the part of the kidney called the renal pelvis and won’t obstruct anything, making it unlikely that they cause any symptoms. 

Dogs with kidney stones may have some of the following symptoms, which are approximately in order of least serious to most serious:

• Recurrent urinary infections
• Change in urine output
• Bloody urine
• Abdominal pain
• Fever
• Poor appetite
• Weight loss
• Vomiting

Your dog may have some of the symptoms, none of the symptoms, or all of them. 

Diagnosing Kidney Stones in Dogs

If your vet suspects kidney stones in your dog, they will first undertake a physical exam, looking for hydration status, abdominal pain, and any concurrent diseases. 

They will then recommend urine testing. They’re looking for the acidity of the urine, which may hint at what sort of stones could be present, as well as urine infections, which not only have similar symptoms but can cause struvite stones to appear. Your dog’s urine sample may also contain crystals of minerals – these are the individual molecules of minerals that haven’t joined to a stone. It’s possible to get crystals without stones, and even possible (though rare) to get stones without seeing crystals. Your vet can examine the crystals under the microscope to tell what sort of stones may be forming in your dog’s urinary tract.

Next, your vet will recommend imaging. X-rays are really useful for diagnosing kidney stones, as most of them show up well on X-ray. However, ultrasound is also useful, as it can show the stones that aren’t easily visible on X-ray as well as show whether there’s a build-up of fluid in the kidney, suggesting the stone is causing a blockage. In most cases, vets will do both an ultrasound and X-ray to get as much information as possible about your dog’s renal stones.

Kidney Stones in Dogs Treatment

Once your dog has been diagnosed with kidney stones, your vet will talk to you about treatment. There are several treatment options we will go into below. These include:

• Dissolution diets (dissolving the stone)
• Surgical removal
• Stenting
• Endoscopic removal
• Extracorporeal shockwave lithotripsy (shockwave therapy)

Dissolving the stone

Unless your dog’s renal stone is so large that it’s squashing the kidney, or in a place where it’s causing a blockage, your vet will probably recommend a dissolution diet. This is a prescription diet that is designed to dissolve the stone – the exact diet will depend on the type of stone your dog has formed. 

The diet changes the pH of the urine to something that encourages the minerals to dissolve again. It may also encourage dilute urine to help the stones to dissolve. You will also need to encourage water intake in your dog to make the urine as dilute as possible. 

Surgical removal

Surgical removal of stones in the kidneys should only be considered if they are causing a severe problem and aren’t responding to other, non-invasive methods. Removing the stone will involve opening up the kidney and/or ureter, both of which are extremely delicate structures. This operation will likely involve referral to a specialist surgical team. If the stone isn’t dissolving with diet, or if it’s causing a blockage or has become very large, your vet may suggest surgery as the best option to treat your dog’s kidney stones.

Stenting

Stenting doesn’t treat the kidney stone itself, but it can bypass an obstruction caused by the stone and allow the dissolution time to do its work. A stent involves inflating a small balloon in your dog’s ureter, making the tube larger and allowing urine to flow past the blockage. It allows the medicated urine to flow past the stone, encouraging it to dissolve.

Endoscopic removal

In some cases, where the stone is too large for ultrasonic removal, removal of the stones using an endoscope is possible. This is a non-invasive surgical removal – your dog will likely need to be referred to a specialist surgical team and will still need a general anesthetic. This is ‘keyhole surgery’, and it means that recovery is quicker. 

Shockwave therapy

For some stones, a useful non-invasive procedure is ‘extracorporeal shockwave lithotripsy’, known as EWSL or shockwave therapy. Shockwave therapy involves using a machine that generates shockwaves, which are directed at the stone. The stone breaks up under the influence of the shockwaves. Once the stone is smaller, it can be passed, or the obstruction is relieved, and the stones can be dissolved with diet. Shockwave therapy can only be performed if the stone is less than 1.5cm in diameter. 

Home remedies and homeopathic therapy

There are no recommended home remedies and homeopathic therapies for kidney stones in dogs. Kidney stones can become an emergency and even be fatal if they start to cause an obstruction, so it’s important to get recommended treatment as soon as you notice symptoms.

Cost to Treat Kidney Stones in Dogs

Kidney stone treatment costs vary greatly, depending on what treatment is necessary. First, you’ll need some investigations and exams, likely to be in the region of $200-$800 range. 

Dissolution diets, while more expensive than usual foods, are still a relatively cheap option. An 8.5lb bag costs around $50. 

However, when renal stones are causing serious problems, treatment costs rise. Your pup might need hospitalization, emergency exams, and specialist surgery with expensive equipment. Costs will reach into the thousands. It’s really important that you communicate any budgetary constraints to your vet as soon as possible, as they may be able to recommend an alternative route.

How to Prevent Dog Kidney Stones

For most dogs, kidney stones are so rare that you don’t need to do anything to prevent them. Keeping your dog on a complete and balanced healthy diet made by a reputable company will keep their dietary mineral consumption within recommended ranges. Ensuring they always have plenty of water and treating any urine infections as soon as you notice signs are both important, too. 

However, there are some dogs that are at such an increased risk that prevention is sensible. Dalmatians – and any dogs known to have the gene mutation that causes the overproduction of uric acid – benefit from being on a low-purine diet to prevent urinary stone formation. Your vet can help to recommend a low-purine diet to help to prevent kidney stones in Dalmatians. 

If your dog has previously had urinary stones, they’re at an increased risk of getting them again. Once the stone is removed, they may need an ongoing stone prevention diet.

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If your dog needs an MRI, you’ll want to know what to expect, the cost, and the risks associated with it. In this article, we’ll cover all of this and more.

What Is an MRI? 

MRI stands for Magnetic Resonance Imaging. It uses large magnets to create an image of body tissues, by measuring how quickly protons in the body react to the magnet. It is non-invasive, non-harmful, and the most advanced type of imaging we use for dogs and other pets.

While useful for many conditions, MRIs are the diagnostic tool of choice for brain and spinal cord problems. In these conditions, CT scans and X-rays are of limited assistance. X-rays show bones really well, because they absorb lots of radiation, but this means they can’t show an image of what’s inside a bone like the skull. CT scans are similar, as they’re produced by taking lots of X-rays in a circle. 

That’s where MRI comes in – the bone doesn’t block the MRI in the same way. MRIs can also ‘see’ smaller issues – down to 1-2 mm in size – which would be missed with a CT scan. This makes MRIs great for dogs with neurological problems or some cancers where small but significant problems may not otherwise be caught.

Why Do Dogs Need MRIs?

MRIs can theoretically be used to diagnose most problems with a physical cause. However, because the machines are expensive to run, most veterinarians don’t have access to one. That’s why they will try to utilize X-ray or ultrasound for anything they can. 

This means MRIs for dogs are typically reserved for uncovering things that X-rays and ultrasounds can’t – such as the cause of neurological abnormalities like wobbliness, seizures, paralysis, or back pain. 

MRIs usually diagnose:

• Brain problems, such as:
  • Strokes
  • Hydrocephalus
  • Tumors
• Spinal problems, such as:
  • Disc disease
  • Spinal fractures
  • Narrowing of the spinal canal

MRIs may also be employed to diagnose complex joint conditions or abdominal conditions if X-rays or CT scans are not available. Because MRIs can image smaller problems than even CT scans can, they may be used for diagnosing some types of diffuse cancers where small changes can still be significant.

Types of Dog MRIs

MRIs in dogs are usually of the “normal” type. They look at a part of the body and produce an image of it, just like an X-ray would.

You may also come across the term ‘functional’ MRI, or “fMRI.” This is a type of MRI that looks at the brain and watches areas “light up” when they’re in use. It is used with humans to visualize why a patient has speech loss and memory issues, and to help plan brain surgery. 

fMRIs are not generally utilized with dogs. This is because dogs generally need an anesthetic for an MRI, which prevents their brain from functioning correctly. However, there are several studies where dogs have been trained to lie still for the fMRI, allowing research into things like whether an fMRI can predict a good service dog. fMRIs are helpful for research purposes but are unlikely to be recommended for pet dogs.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

MRI for Dogs: Risks to Consider

The main risk for a dog MRI is that in order for pups to stay still for it, they need a general anesthetic. MRIs can take an hour or more, depending on what is being imaged, and it’s essential that the animal doesn’t move during this time. 

While all anesthetics carry a risk, your dog’s condition may mean they are more at risk than normal. Your veterinarian will explain all the risks as they apply to your pet, and what they will do to minimize those risks – like running blood tests to check organ function before the anesthetic. 

As MRIs are produced by a giant magnet, some dogs will also be at risk if they have metal in their body. While this is more common in humans, some dogs will have a pacemaker or bone implants that may mean it’s not safe for them to get an MRI. Please make sure your veterinarian knows about any previous surgeries, as this may change whether an MRI is suitable for your dog.

What to Expect During a Dog MRI

If your dog needs an MRI, be prepared to travel to a large hospital and have a long wait while they’re imaged. Your veterinarian will talk about your dog’s individual risks with you before the study – you should be honest about any previous issues or surgeries to ensure your dog is as safe as possible for the procedure. 

When your dog goes for his MRI, they’ll first be assessed by a veterinarian to make sure that the anesthetic will be safe. The veterinarian will give a sedation, followed by the anesthetic. Your dog will have a cannula placed in their leg to enable venous access, and will usually be attached to a fluid bag (drip) to keep them hydrated and their blood pressure normal. 

Once they are fully asleep and stable, your dog will be taken to the MRI suite. They will be put onto a special table that slides into the center of the machine, and will be positioned so the area of interest is central in the machine. They may have a contrast agent injected into their vein – this allows certain areas to ‘light up’ and become more visible on the MRI.

Unfortunately, you can’t stay with your pet while they have an MRI. In fact, nobody will be in the room with your pet unless necessary – usually, all anesthetic controls and monitors, and the computer itself, are outside the room. But don’t worry, your dog’s anesthetist will be able to monitor them using readouts of heart rate, blood pressure, and temperature. 

Rest assured that your dog will be well taken care of and will not know that you aren’t there. Depending on your veterinarian, they may allow you to be with your dog as they come back around from their anesthetic, usually an hour or so later. 

Dog MRI Cost: Understanding the Financials

There’s no doubt that MRIs for dogs are costly. These machines are expensive to buy, expensive to house (they take up a lot of room), and expensive to run. They also require staff with advanced qualifications and extra training, which adds to the cost. Once the anesthetic, blood tests, consultations, and image interpretation are factored in, you’re looking at a pretty hefty price tag. 

So how much is a dog MRI? In the end, dog owners are looking in the region of $2,000 to $5000, depending on their location, their pet, what is being imaged, and what has already been done by their primary care practitioner. 

Pet insurance will normally take care of the cost of an MRI if it’s for a condition they’re covering, but the high cost can sometimes cause pet owners to use up the rest of their insurance money. In this case, credit cards, crowdfunding, and payment programs can all help. If you can’t afford it, you should talk to your veterinarian. They may be able to come up with a less expensive alternative or refer you to a charity clinic that offers a low cost MRI for dogs.

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Early estimates of the frequency of limp tail in dogs found it affected 1 in 200 working dogs, and it’s thought to be less common in dogs that are not working breeds. However, a more recent study in Labradors found that, on average, 1 in 10 dogs had a case of limp tail. It’s obviously a lot more common than previously thought, probably because – thanks to its low severity – most dogs will recover quickly and may never see a vet for the condition. 

What Is Limber Tail in Dogs?

Limber tail syndrome in dogs (acute caudal myopathy) is a condition characterized by a painful and limp tail. It goes by a number of other names, the most common of which are “swimmer’s tail” and “cold tail.” 

Luckily, limber tail is not considered a serious condition – on average, dogs recover within 3 days, although some take over a week to feel better. 

Limber tail is not thought to be a common condition in the general dog population. However, it is around five times more common in working dogs (especially gun dogs such as Retrievers and Pointers) and in higher latitudes, meaning in some northern areas with a rural population it may be quite common. It also seems to have some sort of genetic basis, appearing in certain breeding lines more often. Some dogs seem to be prone to limber tail syndrome and will be affected by repeated episodes.

How Do Dogs Get Limber Tail?

It is not known exactly what causes limber tail syndrome in dogs, but the signs and the way the condition develops suddenly are thought to be related to overworked muscles – in other words, a sprained tail. 

Here are some activities and conditions that may cause limber tail in dogs. 

Swimming

Swimming is one of the most common causes of limp tail in dogs (hence the terms “swimmer’s tail” and “rudder tail”). Dogs that swim are about five times more likely to have a case than non-swimmers. It is not clear whether the exposure to the cold water or the actual act of swimming causes a dog’s tail to be limp after swimming. However, it seems likely that overuse of the tail muscles while swimming (dogs use their tails like a rudder) could cause a painful, sore tail for a few days afterwards. Having said that, some cases happen after immersion in cold water and it’s possible the cold water itself is a contributing factor.

Vigorous Exercise

Vigorous exercise is also thought to be a contributing factor to limp tail syndrome. Again, this makes sense if we accept that limp tail in dogs is caused by painful, overworked muscles. 

Cold or Wet Weather

Anecdotally, cold or wet weather may increase the chances of a dog suffering with limp tail. In this study, a few cases occurred without swimming but in cold or wet weather, showing that swimming isn’t the only cause of limp tail. However, most of these cases had also had vigorous exercise, making it difficult to know the exact cause of the problem.

Confinement

A few cases of limber tail seem to happen after confinement such as in a crate or car. It’s not clear how this would cause limber tail, but may be as a result of ‘stiffening up.’ It could be that the confinement itself wasn’t related to the development of limber tail – in this study, all of the cases that had limber tail after confinement had also been swimming, had vigorous exercise, or been exposed to cold weather.

Hypothyroidism

There is one case of a dog with hypothyroidism developing signs consistent with limber tail. It’s likely that this was unrelated, but since no other studies into this have been done it’s possible that there is a connection.

Symptoms of Limber Tail Syndrome  

Limber tail syndrome is usually diagnosed based on symptoms alone, as they are quite distinctive. 

Dogs with limber tail have a limp or droopy (flaccid) tail, which may be completely droopy or may stick out straight behind them for a few inches before drooping. The tail base is usually very painful, which may make dogs aggressive or even constipated as they try to avoid using their tail muscles for pooping. 

Other symptoms of limber tail syndrome in dogs include:

• Limp, droopy, or flaccid tail
• Stiff tail base
• Painful tail base
• Unusual posture (related to pain)
• Reluctance to sit or squat
• Aggression (likely related to pain)
• Constipation (usually due to reluctance to squat)
• Erect hair at tail base
• Staggering gait

How to Diagnose Limber Tail in Dogs

In most dogs, the combination of a painful, stiff tail base and limp length of tail is enough to diagnose the condition – especially in a working breed or if the dog was previously swimming.  

Your vet will feel (palpate) your dog’s tail to confirm the tail pain and also to feel for swelling related to an injury such as a bruise or fracture.

While a clinical exam is usually sufficient for your veterinarian to diagnose your dog with limber tail, they may recommend further tests if they aren’t sure. This may involve blood tests and X-rays to check for a broken bone, which would cause similar signs. 

Another commonly mistaken condition is anal gland problems – your vet may examine your dog’s anal glands and empty them in case this is causing their symptoms. 

Limber Tail Treatment 

While limber tail does resolve on its own without treatment, it’s a painful condition. Most veterinarians will recommend giving your dog some pain relief in order to make their recovery faster and more pleasant. In most cases, anti-inflammatory NSAIDs are all that is necessary to treat dogs with limber tail syndrome. 

Pain medication should be combined with rest (but not close confinement such as in a crate, which could make it worse) and being kept warm and dry. 

You may be wondering: how long does limber tail last? On average, limber tail syndrome in dogs lasts around 3-4 days, although it ranges from a few hours to 10 days. 

Natural anti-inflammatories and home remedies for limber tail in dogs are not sufficient to relieve pain and keep your dog comfortable.

Medications for Limber Tail in Dogs

In general, NSAIDs (Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs) are the most common drug used to treat limber tail in dogs. Common NSAIDs prescribed to dogs for limp tail include:

• Meloxicam (brand names Metacam, Loxicom)
• Carprofen (brand name Rimadyl)
• Firocoxib (brand name Previcox)
• Deracoxib (brand name Deramaxx)

General Cost for Limber Tail Treatment 

Limber tail is not generally considered an expensive condition to treat. In most cases, an examination and a week’s worth of NSAIDs is all that is required. This is likely to cost $50-$150 depending on your veterinarian and the size of your dog. 

In more unusual cases where further investigations, more medications, or follow-up exams are required, the fee may rise to $500. If you have budget constraints it’s important to communicate these to your veterinarian as soon as possible, as they can adjust their investigations and treatment plan to help you stay within budget.

How to Prevent Limber Tail in Dogs

Since the cause of limber tail isn’t fully understood, it’s difficult to prevent swimmer’s tail in dogs. For most pet dogs, limber tail is unlikely, and prevention isn’t necessary. 

However, taking a few sensible precautions can possibly help prevent this condition:

• Build up fitness slowly and avoid strenuous physical activity until your dog is conditioned and ready.
• Avoid immersion in cold water when possible. This may mean changing your walking route for a few months if you have an at-risk dog.
• Avoid vigorous exercise in cold or wet weather, especially if your dog isn’t used to it.
• Avoid confinement in small crates – ensure your dog has space to stretch out comfortably.

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Let’s take a look at liver cancer in dogs, and what dogs with liver cancer can expect in terms of treatment and life expectancy. 

What is Dog Liver Cancer?

Dog liver cancer occurs when cells in the liver grow out of control. Depending on the type of cell involved, this can cause a large lump (tumor) on the liver or be spread throughout the liver so that the whole liver is slightly enlarged. 

In some cases, the cancer can start in the liver – called a “primary” liver tumor. Primary liver cancer in dogs is very rare. However, because the liver filters a lot of blood, it’s more likely for cancer to spread to the liver from other tumors in the body. This is called a “secondary” liver tumor. It’s thought that secondary tumors are 2.5 times more common than primary tumors in the liver.

Like most cancers, dog liver cancer generally affects older dogs. While liver cancer can affect all breeds, Labrador Retrievers are slightly more prone to a type of cancer called a bile duct carcinoma, while Miniature Schnauzers are more likely to get hepatocellular carcinoma. Some types of liver cancer are thought to be more common in males, while some are thought to be more common in females.

Causes of Liver Cancer in Dogs

Primary liver cancer often doesn’t have a known cause in dogs. It’s likely to be a random mutation in the cell DNA, with several mutations eventually leading to cancer. We know that older dogs are more at risk, which fits with this theory as the mutations add up until they eventually cause cancer. 

In rare cases, liver cancer of the bile ducts may follow a parasitic infection of the liver. Although toxins are often blamed for liver cancer in dogs, there is no scientific evidence that toxins cause liver cancer in our canine friends. Neither is there any evidence that dog liver cancer is caused by their diet.

Secondary liver cancer is more common in dogs. This is liver cancer that starts elsewhere in the body but spreads to the liver. For instance, tumors of the spleen or pancreas often spread to the liver. This means the liver cancer has been caused by the other tumor, which complicates the risk factors – in theory, every cancer risk (such as obesity) could increase the risk of secondary liver cancer.

Liver Cancer in Dogs Symptoms

About 75 percent of dogs with liver cancer show symptoms of a problem. This means that a quarter of cases are “silent” and can go a long time before being diagnosed. When symptoms are seen, they are vague and often fluctuate, which can also lead to dogs not being diagnosed quickly. 

The symptoms of liver cancer in dogs include:

• Inappetence
• Weight loss
• Nausea and vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Lethargy
• Drinking more
• Urinating more
• Swollen, fluid-filled belly (ascites)
• Yellow-colored eyes, lips, and other mucus membranes (jaundice)
• Disorientation, wobbliness, circling, head-pressing (rare)
• Seizures (rare)

Types of Liver Cancer in Dogs

Liver cancer in dogs is categorized several ways. Firstly, there’s whether the cancer is primary (originates from the liver), or secondary (originates elsewhere in the body). Next, we can talk about where the tumor is and what it looks like – called massive, nodular, and diffuse. Lastly, tumors are also categorized by what cells they’re made up of. Let’s look at types of liver cancer in dogs in more detail:

Primary and Secondary Liver Cancer 

As discussed above, dog liver tumors can be either primary or secondary. Secondary tumors start elsewhere (commonly the neighboring organs of the gut, pancreas, or spleen) and spread (metastasize) to the liver. Primary liver tumors are those that start in the liver. 

Secondary liver cancer is much more common than primary, so if cancer of the liver in dogs is suspected, your vet will also look elsewhere to see if there are any other tumors present. If the liver tumor is found to be secondary to another mass, the cancer is named after the organ it originates from – for instance, “pancreatic cancer with liver metastases.”

Massive, Nodular, and Diffuse Liver Cancer 

Of the primary liver cancers, the tumor can then be categorized as:

• Massive
• Nodular
• Diffuse

Massive means there is a large, single tumor, affecting only one lobe of the liver. When examined with the microscope, the abnormal cells are all in this lump – just millimeters away, completely normal liver cells are seen. This is the most common type, which is a good thing. These types of tumor are slow to metastasize and easier to remove surgically, granting a good prognosis. 

Nodular liver tumors in dogs are generally smaller and there will be several lumps, which are usually evenly dotted around the liver and affecting several lobes. This type of liver cancer is more serious – it metastasizes in over 90 percent of cases. It’s also impossible to remove surgically, and there are no real treatment options.

Diffuse liver tumors are spread throughout the liver. On inspection, you can’t see a clear lump, or even several lumps, but the whole liver will appear strange. When examined with the microscope, cancerous cells are spread evenly throughout the liver. It’s impossible to remove, and — like nodular tumors — there are no good treatment options, meaning diffuse liver cancer carries a poor prognosis.

Dog Liver Cancer Cell Types

Canine liver cancer is also categorized by which cells are involved. Many different cells make up the canine liver, so tumor types include:

• Hepatocellular Carcinoma
• Hepatocellular Adenoma
• Hepatoblastoma
• Bile Duct Adenoma
• Bile Duct Sarcoma
• Carcinoids (Neuroendocrine Tumors)
• Hepatic Sarcoma
• Myelolipoma

By far the most common of these is hepatocellular carcinoma, sometimes called HCC, which accounts for 50 percent of all primary canine liver cancers. Most HCCs are massive, which means they carry a better prognosis as they can be surgically removed. 

Hepatocellular adenomas often don’t cause symptoms – in fact, they’re fairly benign, although they can still cause problems if they rupture (burst) or if they’re large.

Bile duct carcinoma is the second most common liver cancer type in dogs. It’s a more severe cancer though, both being more likely to be nodular or diffuse (and therefore harder to remove) and more likely to metastasize. 

The other liver cancer types are rare to extremely rare – hepatoblastoma has only been reported in one dog!

Dog Liver Cancer Stages and Progression 

As with all cancers, the earlier liver cancer is diagnosed, the better. The majority of cases will have hepatocellular carcinoma (HCC) and will be massive. This means surgical removal is possible, but it will get harder the bigger the tumor is, and the likelihood of the tumor spreading to other parts of the body is increased. 

Diagnosing Canine Liver Cancer

If your veterinarian suspects liver cancer, there are a number of tests they will want to perform. The first is a clinical examination, looking for jaundice and other external signs of a liver problem. They will also feel your dog’s abdomen – in some cases, liver tumors can be felt by palpation. However, if they are not, it unfortunately doesn’t rule out liver disease. Tense, nervous dogs, the position of the liver in the abdomen, and the type of liver cancer can all make it hard to feel what’s going on.

Next, blood tests may help your veterinarian to diagnose liver cancer. Significantly raised liver enzymes will often increase suspicion of liver cancer in dogs, although there are other causes. More specific blood tests, including fasting blood tests, may be ordered. Coagulation tests – checking your dog’s ability to clot their blood – will also be important if liver cancer is likely. Urine samples may also be recommended, especially if your pet has been drinking and peeing more than usual. 

Imaging is really important for diagnosing canine liver cancer. The most common form of imaging used is ultrasound (sonogram). Not only can it be done on a conscious animal, but it can see liver tumors large and small, and experienced sonographers may even see diffuse liver cancer. If an ultrasound is not an option, X-ray may see larger liver tumors, or your clinician may recommend referral for a CT scan.

Veterinarians may also take a biopsy of a suspicious area using a needle while doing an ultrasound scan. Alternatively, biopsies may be taken using minimally-invasive techniques (keyhole surgery) or during an exploratory laparotomy. These biopsies can be sent to a specialist laboratory to find out the type of liver cancer your dog has.

Dog Liver Cancer Treatment Options

Treatment is limited for cancer of the liver in dogs. Luckily, the majority of cases are massive HCCs, which respond well to surgery. Since massive tumors are limited to one liver lobe, the dog undergoes a liver lobectomy, where the whole lobe is removed, and – in most cases – the rest of the liver will continue to function as normal. Your dog may need to be placed on a special dog liver cancer diet which will help the liver to cope before and after surgery.

Unfortunately, where liver tumors are nodular or diffuse, there are no good treatment options. Chemotherapy is sometimes used, but is not very successful – many liver tumors are resistant to chemotherapy. When it does work, it’s not curative. While it may slow the progression of the cancer, it will still continue to grow and the liver will still be very vulnerable to rupture (bursting), which will cause huge blood loss. 

In some cases, pet parents might simply choose to do nothing – they’ll monitor their dog’s condition, provide symptomatic treatment such as pain relief, a liver diet, or appetite stimulants, and say goodbye when the time is right. This is known as palliative care.

Cost to Treat Liver Cancer in Dogs

Liver cancer can be expensive to diagnose and treat. There’s the cost of the diagnostic tests – since multiple blood tests are necessary, you can expect a bill in the hundreds of dollars. 

Imaging will have a further cost, especially if sedation is needed to take X-rays. Biopsies also add to the cost of liver cancer diagnosis. Both of these procedures usually cost in the hundreds of dollars, as well. 

Once liver cancer is diagnosed, the cost to treat it depends on the type of tumor. Operating on a cancerous liver is difficult. It takes great skill, specialist equipment, and a good follow-up plan – and is likely to cost in the high hundreds to mid thousands, depending on the difficulty of the operation. 

Chemotherapy is also expensive, especially when weighed against the fact it’s unlikely to work.

Prognosis for Liver Cancer in Dogs

Dogs with liver cancer have varied prognosis depending on what type of cancer they have. Massive HCCs have the best prognosis – with successful surgical removal, these dogs can live for four years on average, and often die of an unrelated condition. 

If the tumor is not removed surgically, the likely survival time for this type of tumor is less than a year. 

On the other hand, diffuse and nodular tumors have a far worse prognosis as they are inoperable and usually chemo-resistant. Palliative care is generally recommended for this type of liver cancer in dogs. 

Pet parents of dogs with liver cancer often wonder when to euthanize. This is a personal choice and will depend on your dog’s symptoms and quality of life. A quality-of-life assessment tool can be useful to help you decide when to euthanize your dog with liver cancer. In general, you should think about whether your dog can still do the things they enjoy – in the final stages of liver cancer in dogs, their symptoms may be too severe to allow them to enjoy life. 

How to Prevent Liver Cancer in Dogs

Unfortunately, we don’t currently know of any way to prevent liver cancer in dogs, as no causes have been identified. Primary liver cancer is luckily rare – knowing the symptoms and acting quickly if you suspect cancer gives your dog the best chance of survival.

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We’ll go over Cushing’s disease in cats so you can keep an eye out for this rare condition.

What Is Cushing’s Disease?

Cushing’s disease is properly called hyperadrenocorticism. Let’s break that down: hyper (too much), adreno (adrenal gland), and corticism (cortisol hormone). In other words, Cushing’s disease in cats occurs when the adrenal glands are producing too much cortisol, a naturally-occurring steroid. This steroid is essential for life, and having an under-production is extremely serious. But having an overproduction causes the symptoms of Cushing’s disease.

While Cushing’s disease is rare in felines, there are some trends appearing that help us to identify affected cats. It’s more common in older cats, averaging 10 years old at diagnosis (2). In addition, 80 percent of cats with Cushing’s will also have diabetes (3), which complicates diagnosis and treatment. It’s also thought that females are more likely to develop Cushing’s syndrome than males (4). There is no breed association with Cushing’s in cats.

What Causes Cushing’s Disease in Cats?

So why does Cushing’s disease happen? The adrenal glands—two small glands near the kidneys—are responsible for producing cortisol. Usually, the amount of cortisol in the body is carefully controlled by the pituitary gland, a small gland at the base of the brain. If there’s too much, the pituitary gland signals the adrenals to stop producing cortisol. If there’s too little, the glands get the message to produce more. This messaging is done with a hormone called adrenocorticotropic hormone, or ACTH. When a cat has Cushing’s, this feedback mechanism breaks down.

There are three categories of Cushing’s with different causes:

Pituitary-dependent: In most cats, Cushing’s is caused by a small (benign) tumor on the pituitary gland, which secretes ACTH, stimulating the adrenals to produce cortisol. This tumor doesn’t recognize that there is too much cortisol and therefore doesn’t send feedback to the adrenals to stop production. 

Adrenal-dependent: Around a quarter of cats will have a tumor on their adrenal gland instead. The tumor is made of cells that produce cortisol. Again, the tumor doesn’t listen to feedback from the body—no matter the feedback it’s receiving, the tumor cells continue to produce cortisol.

Iatrogenic: There is one more cause of Cushing’s you might come across. It is called Iatrogenic Cushing’s and it happens when an animal is given too much steroid drug for too long. When we give steroids for a long time—especially if they are high doses—the pituitary gland and adrenals will be responding as best they can, but we continue to overdose the body on cortisol.

Regardless of which category your cat falls into, the result is too much cortisol in the body. This hormone is known as the chronic stress hormone, and too much of it is bad for health, causing a range of symptoms.

Cat Cushing’s Disease Symptoms

The symptoms of Cushing’s disease in cats are all related to having too much cortisol in the body. In over 75 percent of cases (1), the symptoms will be thirst, hunger, and urinating more often. The problem is that these symptoms are also symptoms for two much more common diseases in cats—diabetes mellitus and hyperthyroidism—both of which also affect older cats. This is further complicated by the fact that the majority of cats with Cushing’s also have diabetes, which is usually diagnosed first. It’s only when the cat isn’t responding to insulin treatment that Cushing’s is considered.

Unlike dogs, cats with Cushing’s get extremely fragile skin. They may have severe wounds or get wounds during routine investigations that heal poorly. Hair loss and skin infections are also common in Cushingoid cats.

Other symptoms of Cushing’s in cats include:

• Excessive thirst
• Excessive urination
• Excessive hunger
• Enlarged abdomen (pot belly)
• Muscle wasting
• Weakness and lethargy
• Fragile, thin skin
• Hair loss or poor coat
• Skin and urine infections

All of these symptoms can be caused by other diseases, so it can be difficult to diagnose Cushing’s in cats, especially given how rare it is.

Diagnosing Cushing’s Disease in Cats

Diagnosing Cushing’s disease in cats can be difficult, and there’s no perfect test that gives a clear answer.  First, your veterinarian will do a clinical exam. This will need to be thorough, as they will want to see if there are any other explanations for your cat’s symptoms. 

Next, your vet will conduct screening tests. If evidence points to Cushing’s, they will then perform diagnostic tests.  

Screening Tests for Cushing’s Disease

Routine screening blood test. A routine screening blood test (biochemistry and hematology) will allow your vet to look for evidence of diabetes (which is much more common in cats and causes similar symptoms), liver disease, kidney disease, and other complicating conditions. Unlike dogs, however, cats don’t have many clues on this minimum database test—it’s more about ruling out other, more common, causes of problems.

Urine screen. A urine screen will often also be undertaken. Not only can this help diagnose or rule out diabetes, but urine infections are a common complication of Cushing’s in cats, so testing for a UTI is sensible. Cortisol in the urine may also be measured, but isn’t a perfect test. Although it increases suspicion of Cushing’s in cats if it’s high, it’s not a definite answer. However, a low result does rule Cushing’s out, so it’s a non-invasive way to rule out Cushing’s in some diabetic cats.

If at this point your vet has diagnosed diabetes, they’ll usually start treatment for diabetes, only returning to the possible Cushing’s diagnosis if the diabetes becomes difficult to manage. Although 80 percent of Cushing’s cats have diabetes, very few diabetic cats will have Cushing’s (as it’s so rare), so it makes sense to treat your cat for diabetes first. 

Diagnostic Tests for Cushing’s Disease

If your vet still strongly suspects Cushing’s as a cause, they’ll likely undertake one of the following tests:

Dexamethasone suppression test. This involves taking blood then injecting a large amount of dexamethasone, a steroid. A second blood sample is then taken. The cortisol levels in the samples are compared to see whether the feedback loop is working. If the body’s cortisol level drops once the body recognizes the dexamethasone, the feedback loop is working and Cushing’s is unlikely. On the other hand, if the cortisol stays the same, your cat’s body is producing cortisol regardless of the feedback loop—which makes it likely your cat has Cushing’s. 

ACTH stimulation test. Another common test is called the ACTH stimulation test, but it’s less accurate than the dexamethasone suppression test in cats (3). This test also requires two blood samples, but ACTH is injected instead of dexamethasone. If your cat’s cortisol is high before the ACTH and extremely high after the ACTH, it suggests Cushing’s.

Differentiating Tests

Lastly, your cat might need imaging, usually ultrasound, to diagnose whether it’s the adrenal glands or the pituitary glands that are involved. Although this is rarely done, it can help with treatment options.

Cushing’s Disease in Cats Treatment

Cushing’s disease in cats is so rare, we’re still working out the best treatment. No drugs are currently licensed for Cushing’s in cats, so all medication is used off-label. A medication called trilostane, which is usually used in dogs with Cushing’s, is most often used. This drug needs to be given once or twice daily, for life. Regular blood tests will be needed to make sure the dose is correct, as overdosing is dangerous. Once the dose is stable, it can still take a long time for symptoms of Cushing’s disease in cats to reduce, especially the thin skin.

Surgery is sometimes indicated for cats with a one-sided adrenal tumor, as the other gland should respond normally to feedback and continue to function. Even if surgery is an option for your cat, they will still need medication first to get their cortisol levels down to normal, as cats with Cushing’s have poor wound healing, making surgery a bad idea.

Cushing’s Disease in Cats Life Expectancy

Cushing’s disease in cats is serious. It’s harder to diagnose than Cushing’s in dogs, meaning cats are often extremely ill when diagnosed. The thin skin can make handling a problem, and cats are often humanely euthanized for wounds before treatment has a chance to work. Since most cats with Cushing’s also have diabetes, this makes euthanasia even more likely. 

However, if cats respond to the recommended treatment, and don’t have any major wounds that refuse to heal, then they can theoretically live a relatively normal life for several years. 

For the minority of cats who have a malignant tumor, the prognosis is unfortunately guarded. 

Cost to Treat Cushing’s Disease in Cats

Cushing’s disease in cats is expensive to treat. The trilostane itself is moderately pricey, but the regular check-ups and blood tests to ensure a safe and effective dose can make treatment costly. Since most cats will also have diabetes, owners should factor in the cost of insulin for their diabetic cat, as well as further monitoring and testing for the diabetes. Wound complications and urine infections will also add to the cost. Although surgery (for those cats who are eligible) may be expensive, it does provide a cure, and may be more affordable in the long run.

How to Prevent Cushing’s Disease in Cats

Unfortunately, there are no known ways to prevent Cushing’s disease in cats. Early diagnosis makes it more likely that your cat will survive, so keeping an eye on your cat’s water intake and talking to your vet early if you suspect a problem is the best measure you can take to protect your cat from Cushing’s.

Related Conditions

• Diabetes mellitus

References

1. Hoenig M. Feline hyperadrenocorticism–where are we now?. J Feline Med Surg. 2002;4(3):171-174. doi:10.1053/jfms.2002.0178
2. Boland LA, Barrs VR. Peculiarities of feline hyperadrenocorticism: Update on diagnosis and treatment [published correction appears in J Feline Med Surg. 2018 Aug;20(8):NP5]. J Feline Med Surg. 2017;19(9):933-947. doi:10.1177/1098612X17723245
3. Delventhal, V. Feline Cushing’s Syndrome – clinical case and review. Kleintierpraxis. 2019;64(2):75-89.
4. Wooten, S. DVM 360. The feline facets of Cushing’s disease. March 2018. Retrieved from https://www.dvm360.com/view/feline-facets-cushings-disease.

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Read on to learn the best ways to give a dog a pill, as well as what to do if your dog won’t take their medication.

Why Dogs May Need Pills

There are a lot of different diseases and conditions that can be treated with pills and tablets of various types. Even routine medications like flea treatments and heartworm prevention may be given as a pill. In fact, pills are the most common form of oral medication prescribed to pets and humans alike.

In a lot of cases, drugs will only be available as a pill; they’re generally the default option for many drugs that need to be given frequently. Pills can be coated to make them absorb faster, taste better, or to help them get through the stomach intact so the drug isn’t changed by the stomach acid. Compared to a liquid, it’s also generally easier to be sure the whole dose has been swallowed, so pills are used when it’s important that the dose is correct. They’re also used when the drug could be toxic or harmful to humans—like chemotherapy— as it’s more likely the whole dose will be swallowed, rather than part of it being sneezed or spat out into an unsuspecting pet parent’s face. 

Some common pills your dog might be prescribed include:

• Flea treatments
• Worm treatments
• Antibiotics
• Steroids
• Allergy medications
• Anxiety medications
• Epilepsy medications
• Pain medications
  

In fact, for pretty much every condition or disease we know how to treat, a pill will be part of the solution.

How to Get a Dog to Take a Pill

So, you know you need to give your dog a pill, but getting it into them is another matter! If you’re a Labrador parent, you can stop reading now—chances are your pooch will quite happily scarf up anything you drop by “accident.” Simply drop their pills as needed and you’re done! For the rest of us poor souls, the following tips might help.

What You’ll Need

Exactly what you’ll need to give your dog a pill will depend on how badly they take it. It’s generally best to prepare for the worst, but start with the low-stress techniques. Gather the following together ahead of pill-popping time so they’re easy to grab when you need them:

• Treats or pill pockets specially designed to hold a pill
• A towel
• A second pair of hands (if possible)
• A pill popper (a tool that helps you put the pill on the back of your pet’s tongue)
• A syringe of tap water

Once you’ve gathered your things together, try the following techniques. It’s best to try them in order unless you are absolutely sure your dog won’t take a pill with one of these methods.

How to give a dog a pill using treats

Most dogs are food-oriented, and very few will say no to a pill if it’s hidden in something delicious. This works best if the treat is something you can wrap around the pill ahead of time and set aside. Next, give your dog several “empty” treats to gain their confidence. Once they’ve enjoyed some tasty treats, give them the one with the hidden pill.  

Many dogs will swallow it down without even noticing that you’ve dosed them. However, some dogs might detect the switcharoo – especially if the treat is loose or easily dislodged — and spit out the pill. That’s where pill pockets provide a handy solution. For example, Greenies Pill Pockets are designed with a hollow center and soft, pliable sides you can mold securely around the pill, so it’s virtually undetectable.

Whether you choose the treat or pill pocket route, you can even make your dog do tricks so that they “earn” the treat to make them less suspicious. 

If your dog’s medication can’t be given with food, your veterinarian should tell you so. Make sure you check exactly what they mean by this. Very, very few medications can’t be given in even a tiny nibble of food. For most medications, a treat-sized bit of food is fine to give.

If your vet confirms that you can’t give any food with your dog’s pills, or if your dog refuses to take the pill inside a treat, you can move on to the methods described next.

How to give a dog a pill using a pill popper

A pill popper/shooter or pill pusher for dogs is a device that allows you to push the pill to the back of your dog’s tongue without putting your hands into their mouth. While it looks a little unpleasant, it’s actually a very useful, gentle, and easy way of giving a pill to a dog without food. Follow these steps:

• Place the pill in the end of the pill popper so you have it ready to go.
• Sit your dog with their back to a corner OR get somebody to hold them or sit behind them so they can’t reverse away. 
• Hold your dog’s upper snout with your non-dominant hand. Gently raise their head and put your thumb and forefinger on either side of their mouth, at the gap in the teeth. This will cause the mouth to open. 
• Using your dominant hand, place the tip of the pill popper into the mouth, aiming for the back of the tongue. Don’t go too far, as you can damage the soft tissues at the back of the mouth. 
• Depress the plunger, emptying the pill onto the tongue. 
• Quickly withdraw the pill popper and hold the mouth closed for a minute or two until you see or hear your dog swallow. 
• You can follow the pill with a small amount of water from a syringe to help the tablet move swiftly to the back of the mouth.

How to give a dog a pill without a pill popper

If you don’t have a pill popper for dogs at home and you haven’t had success with the “treat” method, you can try giving a dog a pill using just your hands instead. The preparation is much the same as with using a pill popper:

• Position your dog so they can’t reverse away. 
• Hold the pill in your dominant hand and use your other hand to open the mouth (as described earlier).
• Once the mouth is open, place the pill as far back on the tongue as you can. 
• Close the mouth quickly and hold it shut until your dog has swallowed. 
• You can follow with a small amount of water from a syringe to help your dog swallow the pill. 

What if My Dog Won’t Take a Pill?

Dogs don’t always know what’s best for them, and they won’t all take their pills on schedule. If you can’t get your dog to take a pill, talk to your veterinarian. There are always plenty of options, but we can’t offer them if we aren’t aware there’s an issue. Your vet might offer another medication or another formulation—such as a liquid, capsule, paste, or powder. They might be able to offer a technician or nurse appointment to give the medication for you. In some cases, a home visit veterinarian will be a good option. The solution will depend a lot on your dog and the medication they’re taking, so have a good chat with your vet and be honest about your capabilities.

Pilling a Dog FAQ

Can you dissolve pills in water for dogs?

You shouldn’t dissolve a pill in water for a dog unless your vet recommends it. Not all pills will dissolve, and some will be damaged by dissolving. And if your dog spits out some water, it’s impossible to tell how much medication they’ve taken. Check first before dissolving your dog’s pills in water.

Can I crush my dog’s pills?

You should never crush your dog’s pills without asking your vet first. Some pills are toxic to humans, and the hard coating is there to protect you from the contents inside. Others have a coating to help the pill get through the stomach before being digested. Some pills can be crushed but you should check with your vet to make sure you aren’t going to cause problems by doing so.

Can dogs smell pills?

In most cases, it’s likely your dog can smell his pills, even when they’re hidden in food. After all, drug detection dogs can smell pills hidden under many layers of plastic and food, so it’s likely that your dog can smell the difference in a treat. That doesn’t mean your dog will refuse the treat though—many will not realize the significance of the smell.

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The great news is that, by reading this, you’ve already taken the first step to getting your cat slim again. Recognizing the problem is the first battle. But weight loss in cats can be a long journey, and it can feel very frustrating. Let’s take a closer look at the risks of obesity in cats, plus explore eight useful tips for how to help a cat lose weight.

Understanding Obesity in Cats

Cats are considered overweight when they’re more than 10 percent over their ideal weight, and obese when they’re more than 20 percent over their ideal weight. Because cats vary in size so much, we can’t define a healthy cat weight for every cat—or even for each breed of cat—but vets are well practiced at determining a cat’s ideal weight from feeling their fat reserves. They feel over the ribs, around the abdomen, and along the back for the presence or absence of fat deposits. They can then give the cat a body condition score (BCS). 

A body condition score is usually on a scale of 1-9, where 4 and 5 are ideal. On this scale, 6 is a little overweight, and 7, 8, and 9 are obese. This corresponds with 10 percent, 20 percent, 30 percent, and 40 percent over ideal weight, respectively. You may also see BCS being given on a scale of 1-5, but the 1-9 range is easier to use and allows calculation of an ideal weight.

While you can try using the cat weight chart below to evaluate your cat’s body condition at home, it’s best to ask a veterinarian to give your cat a score, too. It’s really common for pet parents to misjudge their cat’s body condition when first starting out. In fact, it takes vets years to get consistently good at giving cats a body condition score. Keep practicing and checking your findings against your vet’s score to help fine-tune your ability.

Overweight Cats: How It Impacts Health

Overweight cats are more likely to suffer from a variety of other diseases. Joint diseases like arthritis and hip dysplasia are more common in obese cats. They’re also more likely to suffer complications with anaesthetics. Death associated with sedation or anaesthesia is nearly three times as likely in heavy cats (1). Other conditions that are more likely in overweight cats include:

• Diabetes mellitus
• Lameness 
• Restricted grooming, leading to matted fur and sores
• Poor breathing
• Urinary tract disease
• Skin disease
• Cancer

In addition, overweight cats who stop eating are at high risk for a liver disease called hepatic lipidosis.

8 Ways to Help Your Cat Lose Weight 

So, let’s get that weight off! Just like humans, cats who are overweight have a calorie imbalance—they are taking in more calories than they are using. Decreasing the calories going in at the same time as increasing the calories going out is a surefire way to help your cat lose weight. Wondering how to get a cat to lose weight? It can be difficult, but some of these tips might help.

Work out where the weight is coming from

It’s a good idea to take a long hard look at your cat’s diet to determine where their excess calories are coming from. What are they eating? Make a list of their wet food, dry food, treats, and table snacks, as well as anything you hide medication in. Ask all members of the family to be honest about what the cat is being fed to ensure there’s nothing missing. Don’t forget liquids—anything other than water contains calories. If your cat spends a lot of time outside, try following them or knocking on your neighbors’ doors to see if anybody else is feeding them. A “do not feed me” collar is also sometimes useful.

Count the calories

Next, you should ask your vet how many calories your cat should be getting each day. This will be calculated based on your cat’s goal weight, not their current weight. If you bring in a photo of the calorie information on your pet food, your vet will be able to tell you how much to feed your cat each day.

One important reminder that’s easy to overlook: If your cat enjoys the occasional (or regular) treat, don’t forget to include calories from treats in your daily totals. Some commercial treats can be highly caloric, so don’t be surprised if those calories add up quickly.

Some pet parents may find it easier to eliminate treats rather than limit them. However, if your cat is a treat fiend, you can look for lower-calorie cat treats or those that are formulated to promote weight loss, such as Nutrisentials Lean Treats, Purina Pro Plan Veterinary Diets Crunchy Bites Cat Treats, or Royal Canin Satiety Treats for Cats. 

Weigh your cat’s food

If you’ve been using a cup to measure your cat’s food (or worse, simply filling the bowl and leaving it down!), it’s time to start getting more accurate with your cat’s kibble. It’s easy to overfeed cats using a measuring cup, as small variations in how the kibble sits will change how much you feed. Instead, weigh your cat’s food on a kitchen scale. If that sounds too complicated, you can sit down on a Sunday and weigh out the food for the week into individually labeled bags. That way you will also know if the cat has been fed. In a busy house, accidentally double-feeding a cat accounts for a lot of weight gain!

Consider a prescription diet food

Feeding your cat smaller portions of their regular food might sound like a good weight loss tactic to many pet parents. However, because standard cat food is carefully balanced to maintain your cat’s weight, feeding your cat less than the recommended allowance could create a nutritional imbalance. 

Some cats will gain weight even when fed the recommended amount on the standard food bag. That’s why many veterinarians recommend weight management cat food options that are specifically formulated to support your cat’s weight loss and nutrition needs. 

Weight management cat foods work in several ways. Firstly, they help your cat feel fuller, so they’ll pester less for food. And secondly, they contain ingredients to kickstart your cat’s metabolism. They’re less calorific than most foods too, containing lots of low-calorie fiber. This means your cat’s bowl should look as full as it usually does.

Depending on your cat’s specific weight management needs, your veterinarian may recommend a prescription formula, such as Hill’s Prescription Diet Metabolic Weight Management Cat Food or Royal Canin Satiety Support Weight Management Cat Food. These diets are available only with a veterinarian’s approval.  

There are also effective weight management diets you can purchase over the counter without a prescription, such as Royal Canin Weight Care Cat Food or Hill’s Science Diet Perfect Weight Cat Food. However, you should always work with your veterinarian before switching your cat’s diet, to ensure you’re making the best choice for your pet’s long-term weight management goals.

Discover more veterinarian-approved weight management cat food options, along with the pros and cons of each formula, here.

Feed them zucchini

One outside-the-box tip is to feed your cat zucchini. This low-calorie food is high in water, helping cats feel full. Most cats prefer it boiled, but you can also try feeding it raw. Add it to their usual food or as a snack in the middle of the day. It’s a strange tip, but it has come straight from the specialist pet weight-loss team at the University of Liverpool. 

Slow down your cat’s eating

Just like us, cats who gulp their food can still feel hungry. It takes a while for the body to register its fullness and produce the hormones needed to give feedback to the brain to stop looking for food.

One easy way to help your cat feel more satisfied is to find ways to slow them down at mealtime so they’re not eating too fast. You can sprinkle dry cat food over a hard floor or hide it around the house in small piles. Puzzle-feeding toys are also great ways to force your cat to take their time while eating and provide mental stimulation at the same time!

Encourage exercise

An exercise routine for a cat may sound crazy, but it’s the only way to increase calorie usage. Try playing with your cat, setting up a cat obstacle course, or putting their food in a puzzle feeder. You can even take them for a walk on a harness, if they’re up for it.

Whatever works, stick with it—but keep it fun and engaging. Never force your cat to exercise, especially if they show any signs of pain or discomfort. (For cats, that could include hiding to avoid playtime.) 

If you suspect your cat is in pain, be sure to consult with your veterinarian. Depending on your cat’s specific health needs, your vet may prescribe a medication to help alleviate pain so they can tolerate low-impact exercise. Or they may recommend a hip and joint supplement to help improve joint function. 

Keep going back to your vet

Whether you need the repeat appointments for accountability or support, going back to your vet for regular weigh-ins is much more likely to result in weight loss. They’ll be able to help you if your cat’s progress stalls and remind you of how far you’ve come, which are both important to keep you moving in the right direction. The good news is that many practices will offer these appointments free or at a reduced rate so you can go back as often as you need to to ensure your cat is healthy and happy.

Weight Loss Safety for Cats

It’s very important that you are careful with your cat’s weight loss diet. It’s best to talk to a vet before starting a weight loss journey to ensure your cat is healthy and to discuss your target weight to make sure it is appropriate. They’ll also be able to advise you on how much you should feed your cat for safe weight loss. It’s very important not to try to get your cat to lose weight too quickly. Sudden calorie deficit can cause cats to mobilize fat stores, leading to hepatic lipidosis, which can be life-threatening. 

It’s very common for cats to become overweight, but with a little help from your veterinarian, you can get them back to full fitness. The key with cats is not to lose hope—weight loss for cats is (and should be!) slow. It should take a minimum of six months to reach a healthy weight and in very overweight cats, it can take several years.

References

1. Zähringer, Dagmar & Story, Michelle & Rand, Jacquie & Svoboda, Miroslav. (2016). Feline obesity – prevalence, risk factors, pathogenesis, associated conditions and assessment: A review. Veterinární Medicína. 61. 295-307. 10.17221/145/2015-VETMED. 
2. PAW PDSA Animal Wellbeing Report 2020. 10th Edition. Retrieved from ​​https://www.pdsa.org.uk/media/10540/pdsa-paw-report-2020.pdf

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In 2018, 4 percent of cat owners were feeding raw cat food to their cats, and it’s likely that more were buying ‘human’ food from supermarkets with the intention of sharing it with their pets. 

But humans are advised against eating raw chicken due to Salmonella and other potentially harmful pathogens. But can cats eat raw chicken? We’ll take a closer look at whether raw chicken is safe for cats and whether this trend could spell trouble for your feline friend.

Can Cats Eat Raw Chicken?

Yes, cats can eat raw chicken, but there are health risks associated with feeding cats raw meat. 

Chicken, whether raw or cooked, is a good source of protein for cats, and you’ll find it in most pet foods. However, cooked meat is much safer than uncooked meat. Uncooked meat can host nasty bacteria that can cause illness. This is especially true for chicken, which is why humans should never eat raw or undercooked chicken. 

Having said this, cats do show some resistance to the effects of eating raw meat. While most humans will get ill if they eat raw chicken, cats are less likely to show immediate signs of illness. Sometimes they’ll show symptoms of illness such as vomiting and diarrhea, but more often than not they simply carry on as normal. 

However, it’s still very difficult to say that raw chicken is safe for cats. While we know they don’t get as ill as we do, some cats will still get ill, and some illnesses carried by raw meat can be serious and long lasting. 

Those that recommend raw-feeding suggest that cats receive a lot of benefits from raw meat that they don’t get from cooked meat. Raw food enthusiasts believe it’s more digestible and more nutritious because it’s “biologically appropriate” (in other words, what cats evolved to eat). Unfortunately, there are no studies that demonstrate a clear improvement in any aspect of a cat’s health when being fed a raw diet. 

As a vet, I wouldn’t ever purposefully feed raw chicken to my cat. Cooking meat makes it safe, so I usually recommend boiled chicken for cats. But, if a piece of raw chicken fell on the floor and the cat ate it, or if the cat got into the fridge and ate a few pieces of raw chicken breasts, I wouldn’t rush to treat them for illness, either. 

The Dangers of Raw Chicken for Cats

Raw chicken is commonly contaminated with Salmonella, E.coli, and other bacteria. 

In one small study, 80 percent of chicken-based raw meat diets were contaminated with Salmonella. While cats are naturally a little resistant to becoming ill with these pathogens, they aren’t immune. What’s more, the bacteria are then on their food bowls, in their mouths, on their fur, and in their poop, from where they can easily infect humans. 

To get around this, some raw food companies freeze their food or even freeze-dry it. Unfortunately, this does not necessarily make it safe. Salmonella can survive freezing (otherwise we could all eat raw chicken as long as it had been frozen first) and it has been isolated from freeze-dried diets too. 

The only way to stop chicken meat from being contaminated is to practice really good hygiene in the farm and abattoir, as well as any post-slaughter processing. But, as we know from the frequent cases of human illness, pathogenic bacteria slip through the cracks even in the human food chain. In fact, about 1 in 25 packs of chicken at the supermarket are contaminated with disease-causing bacteria.

To avoid potentially exposing your cat to Samonella, E.coli, or other dangerous bacteria, it’s best to cook chicken before giving it to your feline family member.

Raw Chicken for Cats: The Breakdown

Although humans prefer chicken breasts and occasionally the legs and wings, raw cat food with chicken could contain a whole host of different chicken parts. Chicken livers, chicken meat and other organs (like lung) are all regularly used in cat foods. 

Can Cats Have Raw Chicken Breast? 

Chicken meat, including chicken breasts, is the most common type of raw chicken your cat will be exposed to. Cats can eat raw chicken breast, but uncooked chicken breasts pose the same risks as other raw parts of the chicken. 

Can Cats Eat Chicken Bones? 

Chicken bones are generally a no-no for cats. Bird bones are thin and easily break into sharp shards, which can cause damage to the mouth and soft tissues of the throat and gullet. 

However, the risk is far greater with cooked bones than for raw chicken bones, as raw bones are much softer and less likely to splinter. The ‘long’ bones of the legs are also more risky than other bones – so if you’re going to try bones for your cat, opt for the bones of the neck which tend to be softer and less brittle. 

Ground chicken bones – such as the ‘bone meal’ – might be included in cat foods. This is fine for felines. Bone meal provides valuable calcium and phosphorus and is the safest way for your cat to eat chicken bones. 

Remember that bacteria like E. coli and Salmonella can be on raw bones just as on raw skin or meat, so the same risks apply as discussed above.

Can Cats Eat Raw Chicken Liver? 

Raw chicken liver is another common ingredient in commercial raw cat foods. Like other raw chicken portions, raw liver does pose some threats to cats – mostly the risk of bacterial contamination, or the spread of parasites. 

However, liver is a nutritious food and contains lots of iron, vitamin A, and protein. It’s a good food to include in your cat’s diet as long as it only makes up a small portion of the diet – too much vitamin A can cause illness. Other organ meats are also nutritious. 

However, as with all the other portions of chicken, I would never feed raw chicken liver to my cat, preferring instead to gently cook it to increase its safety. If you’re wondering “can cats eat raw chicken hearts” then the answer is the same – it’s best to cook the hearts to make them safer.

Can Cats Eat Raw Chicken Fat?

Cats get much of their energy from fat and have a high tolerance for it. Fat is also important in the diet for fat-soluble vitamins. However, fat is high in calories, and this can cause a problem if your cat struggles with their weight. It can be really hard to spot when your cat is getting overweight so make sure you ask your vet at every visit. 

For most normal-weight cats, chicken fat isn’t likely to be harmful. However, the same warnings about raw chicken fat (possible contamination with Salmonella and other pathogens) apply. 

Can Cats Eat Raw Chicken Skin?

Raw chicken skin, like other forms of raw chicken, is not recommended due to the risk of bacterial contamination. Chicken skin is the fattiest part of chicken and should only be fed to cats who are not overweight. 

How to Feed Cats Raw Chicken

If you decide to feed raw chicken to your cat, there are some things you should do. Firstly, it’s very important that raw chicken is not the sole ingredient in your cat’s diet, as it is not complete and balanced. It needs to be mixed with other ingredients to ensure your cat is getting everything they need. 

If you want your cat’s diet to be raw, it’s best to buy an AAFCO-formulated complete food that contains raw chicken. Don’t make a diet at home. Cats can quickly become ill with nutritional deficiencies. In addition, making raw food at home increases the risk of bacterial contamination for you and your family, as you’ll be preparing several raw ingredients. 

If you’re just feeding raw chicken to your cat as a one-off or as a treat, just make sure it’s not more than 10 percent of their daily calories – the other 90 percent of their calories should come from a balanced source, like their usual diet. You may need to reduce their dinner to take into account the extra calories.

Precautions When Feeding Cats Raw Chicken

When feeding raw chicken to cats, there are a few precautions to consider. 

Practice safe handling. Firstly, the risk of bacterial contamination with disease-causing bacteria is high. It’s therefore important that you handle your cat’s raw food with the same care you’d handle raw chicken. Wash your hands and any utensils thoroughly after handling any raw chicken for cats, and clean their food bowls immediately after use. Remember that your cat’s saliva and fur could be contaminated too – don’t allow your cat to lick you and wash your hands after touching your cat. This is especially true if there are any immunocompromised people in the house.

Start with small amounts. Secondly, raw chicken won’t suit all cats. Some cats may have a chicken allergy or intolerance, while others might struggle with the ‘raw-ness’ of it, or simply the change to their normal diet. It’s possible that some cats will get a digestive upset, such as vomiting and diarrhea, after eating raw chicken. 

A sensible precaution would be to start off with just a tiny amount of chicken (a teaspoonful) to give your cat the chance to try it and observe for any reactions for 48 hours before slowly increasing the amount of raw chicken in your cat’s diet.

Keep an eye on your cat’s calories. Thirdly, you should ensure your cat’s calorie intake stays within their recommended daily allowance. If you’re adding raw chicken to your cat’s diet as an addition to their usual diet, you should make sure you aren’t feeding too much by reducing your cat’s meal accordingly. Remember that any non-balanced additions to a diet (like raw chicken and any other treats) should not make up more than 10 percent of your cat’s daily calorie allowance or they risk unbalancing the whole diet and resulting in nutritional deficiencies. 

Conclusion

Feeding raw chicken to cats doesn’t have any proven benefit over feeding cooked chicken, but it does come with some additional risks. As a vet, I would never feed raw chicken to my cat or recommend raw meat for cats. However, if you do decide to feed your cat raw chicken, there are important precautions you should take so that you do so as safely as possible.

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Cats usually relax when they smell catnip. The active compound nepetalactone causes them to become mellow and roll around on the floor –  although some cats become hyperactive instead. 

But is catnip bad for dogs? Or is it perfectly safe for our canine companions? Does it affect them the same way? Read on as we dive into the curious world of catnip and canines.

Can Dogs Have Catnip? 

The good news is that catnip is safe for dogs to eat or smell in small doses. Phew! Now that we got that out of the way, let’s explore catnip for dogs in a little more detail.

Does It Work on Dogs?

Although catnip is safe for dogs, don’t expect it to have the same effects as it has on cats. In fact, we aren’t even sure whether dogs respond to it at all. 

While cats respond in a very obvious way, dogs don’t have such a clear reaction to nepetalactone. Though it’s possible dogs won’t respond to catnip at all, it’s thought that they do, in fact, find it mildly sedative. 

Humans have been taking catnip as a herbal remedy for centuries as a calming aid. In fact, nepetalactone is similar in chemical structure to valerian, which is known to work as a calming agent in dogs. Given that valerian works on dogs, it stands to reason that our canine pals might get the same mild sedative effect that we get from taking catnip. 

While the impact on dogs hasn’t been studied, it’s likely that they get a benefit from both smelling and eating catnip. You might not notice the effects, though – any reaction is likely to be subtle!

Is There Catnip Made for Dogs?

Well, if you were hoping for a stimulant for your dog, catnip is not what you’re looking for. However, anise has been named dog nip for its similar stimulating effects. While we know there’s a lot of anecdotal evidence that anise causes hyperactivity in dogs, it’s best to be cautious with the interpretation of this, as anise’s effects on dogs haven’t been well studied.

Are There Benefits of Catnip for Dogs?

Although catnip and canines aren’t exactly a match made in heaven, let’s have a look at the possible benefits for dogs. It’s important to remember that catnip has not been well studied in dogs, and that all benefits are theoretical.

With the chemical similarity to valerian (which we know dogs respond to) and the fact humans get a calming effect from catnip, it’s possible catnip works as a dog calming aid. It could be used as an anti-anxiety herbal remedy. However, it’s worth mentioning that the effects of catnip on cats are very short-lived, and we just don’t know how long any calming effect will last in most dogs.

There are other benefits sometimes mentioned in articles about catnip and dogs. These include

• Nutritional benefits (due to magnesium, vitamin C, and vitamin E, among others)
• Gastrointestinal benefits (such as diarrhea relief)
• Sleeping benefits 
• Preventing fleas

However, it’s sensible to be cautious with claiming benefits like these. The tiny amount of magnesium and vitamin C in catnip, coupled with the tiny amount of catnip you’ll actually be giving your dog, means it is unlikely to make a dent in your dog’s daily recommended allowance of these micronutrients. 

Because diarrhea has so many causes, it’s unlikely that one herb will help them all — not to mention that catnip will also cause digestive upset in some animals. As one of the possible effects is as a smooth muscle stimulant, it might even make some cases of diarrhea worse. 

There might be some sleeping benefits, thanks to catnip’s mild sedative effect, though it might not work very well. We don’t know how long any relaxing effect works in dogs, but it’s unlikely to be all night.

And finally, there’s no evidence whatsoever that the herb prevents fleas. In fact, cat owners will tell you that cats still get fleas even when they roll in the stuff.

Dangers of Catnip for Dogs

Generally, catnip is considered safe for dogs, especially in the small doses usually recommended to be given as treats. However, there are some dogs that shouldn’t have this herb. 

Pregnant dogs should never be given catnip. It may stimulate smooth muscle and cause uterine contractions and cause preterm labor. This can also be a side effect that impacts pregnant humans, which means it would be sensible for expecting mothers to avoid taking catnip as well.

The herb is a diuretic, so it’s not a good idea to give it to dogs with heart problems or urinary problems, as it might destabilize them. If your dog needs a calming aid with these problems, it’s best to check with your veterinarian for a safer option.

In general, it’s not a good idea to give herbal remedies to any dogs taking medication until you’ve checked with your veterinarian. It’s possible that catnip will make some medications more or less effective, so it’s worth checking that there are no known interactions before giving your dog catnip treats.

Dogs and Catnip: Safety Tips

Here are some things to consider if you have catnip in the house with your dog:

• Smelling catnip in cat toys is fine, but don’t let dogs access toys if there’s a chance they might rip them up. It’s ok for dogs to eat catnip, but the toy stuffing is a concern for bowel obstruction.
• It’s best to give your dogs a dog treat with catnip already in it, as it will have a carefully measured dose. However, if you can’t find any and you want to try it, the dried herb is safe to use: a teaspoonful sprinkled over food should be plenty. 
• If your dog eats a large quantity of catnip, it may cause an upset stomach. Be prepared for diarrhea, and call your vet if they seem too uncomfortable or if you see symptoms you weren’t expecting.
• Fresh catnip herbs are also safe, but it’s best to prevent dogs from accessing the garden if they’re prone to eating plants, as other plants could be toxic.

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Let’s look at whether dogs can get the flu, and how you can keep your canine companion healthy this season.

Can Dogs Get the Flu? 

In 2004, researchers found Greyhounds infected with an influenza A virus, which they named canine influenza virus (CIV) (1). This H3N8 dog influenza virus originated in horses before mutating so that it could infect dogs (2). This flu strain spread in kennels and shelters, but has been on the decline in recent years—it may even not be in the U.S. anymore. 

There’s also another influenza virus strain that dogs can catch: H3N2. It originated in Asia (likely in birds) before crossing the species barrier and infecting dogs. This strain arrived in the U.S. around 2015 (3), and sporadic outbreaks are relatively common. 

Typically, infection with either flu virus causes mild signs. That being said, if a dog ends up with secondary pneumonia, it can be more serious and it is possible for dog flu to be fatal. 

Although there are canine flu viruses, most cases of dogs having flu-like symptoms are not caused by an influenza virus. Other viruses like parainfluenza virus, adenovirus, and herpesvirus cause respiratory symptoms similar to canine flu.

What Causes Flu in Dogs?

True flu in dogs is caused by canine influenza virus. A virus is a type of microbe, but unlike bacteria, it isn’t alive and cannot replicate without infecting a host. It’s a small piece of DNA (or RNA) coated in protein. In influenza, the two surface proteins hemagglutinin (H) and neuraminidase (N) help us to identify which flu virus we’re talking about. Dogs have two flu viruses currently known: H3N8 and H3N2.

Both types of canine flu virus are thought to have started out in other species—the H3N8 probably came from horses, and the H3N2 likely from birds. The viruses are now considered canine-specific. Although both types of flu are infectious to dogs, neither has been known to infect humans (4). It’s thought that the likelihood of a pandemic caused by canine flu is low.

Just like human flu, canine flu spreads from dog to dog in respiratory droplets when a dog sneezes or coughs. It can also spread through contact with contaminated surfaces, such as shared water bowls, dog toys, or surfaces in kennels. Humans can also spread canine flu from dog to dog on their hands and clothes. 

Like many canine respiratory diseases, canine flu spreads easily where dogs are housed in close confinement, such as in kennels or shelters. All dog breeds are equally susceptible, but it’s slightly more common in breeds that are often housed in groups, such as Greyhounds and Beagles. 

Some dogs are more likely to get serious flu than others. These are dogs who already have lung, heart, or respiratory problems, such as short-snouted breeds or those with congestive heart failure.

Dog Flu Symptoms 

The symptoms of dog flu are similar to other causes of respiratory disease in dogs. Some dogs show no signs of having caught dog flu (they are asymptomatic) but others can be more seriously ill. Your dog might be coughing and/or have a runny nose and eyes, but the cough is very similar to kennel cough or a canine cold. Like humans, dogs with flu may feel lethargic. Other dog flu symptoms include:

• Cough
• Runny nose
• Sneezing
• Runny eyes
• Lethargy
• Fever
• Reduced appetite

Unfortunately, many of these symptoms are similar to other diseases, such as kennel cough, canine colds, and even seasonal allergies. Due to these similarities, it can be very difficult to determine exactly what is causing your dog’s symptoms at home. Since there is no specific treatment for canine flu, this doesn’t actually matter day to day. However, if your dog seems under the weather with their symptoms, you should head to the vet to get a diagnosis and any necessary treatment.

In some cases, dogs with flu will get a secondary infection. This is where they come into contact with another microbe that causes respiratory disease and—because their immune system is weakened by the virus—the microbe has more of an effect. For instance, Bordetella bronchiseptica, the bacteria sometimes responsible for kennel cough, will often complicate a dog flu infection and increase the chances of a dog becoming more seriously ill with pneumonia.

Diagnosing Flu in Dogs

In most cases, diagnosis of flu in dogs isn’t necessary. It’s very similar to a number of other contagious respiratory diseases and treatment is the same regardless of the exact microbe causing your dog’s illness. 

It’s likely your vet will examine your dog thoroughly to rule out other causes of a cough, then diagnose canine infectious respiratory disease complex (CIRDC). This essentially means your dog has a respiratory infection, but there’s not necessarily a known cause. At this point, the infection could be caused by a virus like flu or parainfluenza, or a type of bacteria. In some cases, dogs will be infected with more than one cause of contagious respiratory disease at once.

If there’s a high risk of spread to other dogs or a dog is particularly sick, a vet might request a more specific test to diagnose the cause of your dog’s symptoms. These tests may include:

• X-rays (to look for other causes of a cough)
• Ultrasound (to check the heart more thoroughly, where heart disease is suspected)
• Nose or mouth swab
• Bronchoalveolar lavage (BAL) or tracheal wash

Nasal and oral swabs are easy to perform but sometimes inaccurate. The nose and mouth of dogs can contain many bacteria that aren’t causing disease, so differentiating what is causing the symptoms can be difficult. 

The best test is a bronchoalveolar lavage (BAL), which samples deep inside the lungs, where there should be fewer confusing bacteria and viruses. For this test, your dog will need an anesthetic. Sterile saline is pushed into their lungs through a tube, then drawn back out. The liquid is then sent to a laboratory to be checked under a microscope and the DNA of the sample checked to see which viruses and bacteria are present. 

How to Treat Dog Flu

In many cases, dogs with the flu won’t need treatment. Their symptoms are often very mild, and they recover on their own in under two weeks. 

If your dog has been ill for less than a week and they have mild signs of dog flu, you can treat them at home with supportive care. This involves keeping an eye on their appetite, temperature, and other symptoms to look for deterioration. You may want to put them in the bathroom with the shower running for a little while—the steam can help a cough. Avoid neck collars, as these can irritate the trachea and worsen a cough, and try to remove bark triggers wherever you can. This might mean closing the curtains so your dog can’t see the street. 

If your dog has symptoms for more than a week, or starts with more severe symptoms such as a fever, lethargy, or decreased appetite, you should contact a veterinarian. Your dog may require antibiotics to clear a secondary infection. In addition, your vet may provide a cough suppressant and an anti-inflammatory for you to give at home. In most cases, these dog flu treatments are easy to give, but please talk to your veterinarian if you’re concerned about your ability to medicate your dog.

In severe cases, your dog might be hospitalized for oxygen therapy and nebulization. They may also require fluid therapy and/or nutritional support if they haven’t been eating or drinking enough. 

Medications for Dog Flu

There are no specific medications to treat dog flu. If treatment is needed, it’s usually for a secondary bacterial infection. Your dog may be prescribed antibiotics, cough suppressants, or anti-inflammatories. 

General Cost of Treatment 

Treating dog flu is usually low cost, and most cases will resolve without any treatment at all. If treatment is needed, most dogs can be managed at home and costs are likely to consist of your initial visit, some medications, and a re-examination ($100-$400). 

If tests and hospitalization are required, the bill will often be higher. In these cases, treating dog flu costs are likely to be $300-$1,400.

Don’t forget, you can always request a breakdown of expected costs from your veterinarian. Let your vet know if you have budget constraints, as they will be happy to work with you to make sure you can still do the best for your dog.

Dog Flu Prevention

There are vaccines available against both strains of canine flu. Like human flu vaccines, the dog flu shot doesn’t prevent the disease, but will reduce the severity of symptoms and help your dog to recover from infection faster. Vaccination isn’t compulsory and the dog flu vaccine will usually only be offered to at-risk dogs. This includes those that often mix with other dogs (shelter dogs, pack dogs, breeding dogs, Greyhounds, and show dogs) and those with heart disease, lung disease, or a short snout (which would make an infection more likely to be serious).

Other than vaccination, normal hygiene precautions can help prevent the spread of dog flu. Don’t let your dog mix with dogs of unknown vaccination status, and choose kennels based on their hygiene practices. Take care to wash your hands and your clothes if you have been in contact with a dog with symptoms of dog flu. 

Related Conditions 

• Kennel cough

References

1. Payungporn S, Crawford PC, Kouo TS, et al. Influenza A Virus (H3N8) in Dogs with Respiratory Disease, Florida. Emerging Infectious Diseases. 2008;14(6):902-908. doi:10.3201/eid1406.071270.
2. Reagan KL, Sykes JE. Canine Infectious Respiratory Disease. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract. 2020;50(2):405-418. doi:10.1016/j.cvsm.2019.10.009
3. Centers for Disease Control. Canine Influence (Dog Flu) Outbreak in Chicago Area. April 2015. Retrieved from https://www.cdc.gov/flu/news/dog-flu-chicago.htm
4. Centers for Disease Control. Key Facts About Canine Influenza (Dog Flu). Retrieved from: https://www.cdc.gov/flu/other/canine-flu/keyfacts.html

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If you’ve been paying attention to your cat’s eyes, you might have seen them dilate every now and again. Read on to find out why your cat’s eyes are dilated and when it’s a cause for concern.

Cat Pupils: How Do They Work?

Your cat’s eyes have the same basic components that yours do – the visible areas of the eyeball are the sclera (the white bit), the iris (the colored area) and the pupil (the black center). 

Feline eyes have vertical slit-shaped pupils – this shape of pupil is common to predators that hunt in the low light levels of dusk and dawn, so it’s thought to be perfectly adapted to help see in low light.  

The pupil lets light into the back of the eye, where receptors ‘read’ the light and form nerve pulses. Your cat’s brain, when it receives these signals, turns these nerve pulses into a picture. The pupil can change in shape and size due to the muscles inside the eye. This allows more or less light to be let in, meaning the eye can adapt to different levels of light. 

In bright light, the pupil closes tight, preventing too much light getting in. Too much light can lead to temporary (or, in extreme cases, permanent) blindness and pain – like when you’re in a dark room and somebody turns a light on without warning. In low lights, the pupil opens wide (it dilates) letting as much light as possible in to help with vision. We call this wide-open pupil ‘mydriasis’.

Cat Eye Dilation: What Does it Look Like?

When your cat’s eyes are dilated, their pupils are larger than normal. At this size, the pupil is almost round, rather than slit-shaped. If you look closely, you’ll notice the ring of the iris (the colored portion of the eye) is much thinner than usual. 

You might notice the pupil being dilated temporarily while in low light, or adjusting to bright light, and this usually lasts only while they’re in low light, or for just a second or two as they transition into bright light. However, sometimes you’ll notice dilated pupils in cats even when they aren’t in low light. This can be a cause for concern, especially if the dilation is persistent.

Why Are My Cat’s Eyes Dilated?

Cat eyes can dilate for a number of reasons, ranging from normal to serious. The common causes of cat eye dilation are:

Response to Low Light

The normal response of a cat’s eyes to low light is to make the pupils big, therefore allowing plenty of light to see by. If you’re looking at a cat on a night-vision camera, or your cat wakes you up in the early hours, you might notice their pupils are really big. This is normal! This is a reflex action that cannot be controlled intentionally.

Excitement and Fear

Your cat’s eye muscles are also under the control of the sympathetic nervous system. This is the ‘fight or flight’ response. When your cat is stressed or excited – anything that might result in a release of adrenaline – this system dilates the eye, as if to prepare for fight or flight. This usually lasts for a short time, no more than a few minutes, and should fade as the cat calms down.

Pain

Related to the fight and flight response, pain can also trigger the sympathetic nervous system and cause dilated cat eyes. This usually only lasts for seconds (up to a minute) and then their pupils return to a normal size as their body adapts.

Catnip

Catnip contains nepetalactone, which is well known for giving cats a ‘high’. While we aren’t sure exactly why cats respond to catnip this way, one of the symptoms of a cat on catnip is dilated eyes. They are usually back to themselves after around 10 minutes and won’t respond again for a couple of hours. Many cat toys contain catnip. If you’ve just given your cat a new toy and they’ve got dilated eyes, this is the likely cause!

Toxins

Some toxins — including human drugs, illegal drugs, and some mushroom species — can cause your cat’s pupils to dilate. This is usually due to activation of the nervous system. 

Medication

Some medications can cause cat dilated eyes. One example is atropine, an eye drop that might be applied by your vet during investigations, or may be prescribed to help with an eye problem. Other medications that commonly cause eye dilation in cats include pain relief medications (especially opioids) and anti-anxiety drugs.

Glaucoma

Glaucoma is a painful eye condition where the pressure in the eye is too high. It can cause many symptoms, one of which is cat dilated pupils. This might happen to one eye or both at the same time. 

High Blood Pressure

High blood pressure is a relatively common condition in cats, particularly senior and geriatric cats, especially if they have kidney disease or hyperthyroidism. High blood pressure causes damage to the eyes, and the eyes dilate in response. Sometimes this dilation from high blood pressure is treatable, but sometimes it isn’t. However, it’s still worth trying treatment as high blood pressure is damaging to many other organs, too.

Eye Dilation in Cats: Should You Worry?

If your cat’s eyes dilate but then return quickly to normal, you don’t usually need to worry. This is especially true if you have a good explanation for why it happened (such as a dark room, a loud noise, a sprinkle of catnip, or in the middle of a game of chase). 

If your cat’s eyes stay dilated, it’s more of a cause for concern and it’s a good idea to get an appointment scheduled with your veterinarian as soon as possible. 

As discussed above, high blood pressure (which often goes hand-in-hand with kidney disease, heart disease, or hyperthyroidism) can cause dilated pupils in cats. You might notice other signs of disease in these cats including changes in appetite or thirst, lethargy, or panting with the mouth open. If just a single pupil is dilated (termed ‘anisocoria’), this is also a concern, and again this should be investigated. 

Lastly, you should contact your vet if toxicity is a possibility – especially if your cat may have eaten any drugs, including recreational drugs. Your vet won’t judge or call law enforcement, they just want to treat your cat.

Diagnosing and Treating Abnormal Eye Dilation in Cats

Your veterinarian will start by taking a thorough history. Sometimes the cause of dilation will be known, such as if a toxin has been eaten (or breathed in). If that doesn’t identify the cause, your vet will examine your cat. 

Don’t be alarmed if your vet doesn’t immediately look in your cat’s eyes – there may be clues to what’s going on in their full clinical exam. Expect your vet to listen to your cat’s heart, feel your cat’s abdomen, and even check your cat’s gums. They will likely look in your cat’s eyes, and do some reflex tests with lights. If glaucoma is suspected, they may test your cat’s eye pressure.

Next up, blood tests and blood pressure measuring may identify the cause of the problem. In some cases, your vet’s examination will identify a neurological problem or an eye problem, in which case they may refer you to a specialist. This may also be necessary if your vet doesn’t have the specialized equipment necessary to make a full diagnosis.

Treating Eye Dilation in Cats

There is no specific treatment for eye dilation in cats. Treatment depends on the underlying cause. Your vet might recommend pain relief (eye drops or oral meds), medication to control the blood pressure (usually pills), a diet change (for kidney disease), or even an operation (in some cases of hyperthyroidism). If you have any questions, you can always ask your vet to explain what they’re treating, and why. 

Conclusion

There are lots of reasons a cat’s eyes dilate. If you notice your cat’s eyes are dilated and they aren’t returning to normal, or if one eye is dilated when the other is not, it’s time to contact a veterinarian for a check-up.

The post Why Are My Cat’s Eyes Dilated? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

But if your curious kitty wants to join in on lapping up this yummy frozen dairy treat, you might be wondering: can cats eat ice cream? 

Can Cats Eat Ice Cream?

The simple answer to this question is no. Ice cream is primarily made of cream, which cats shouldn’t have due to being lactose intolerant. Sugar is another major ingredient, which is just as bad for cats as it is for us. 

Additionally many ice creams have added ingredients, some of which are toxic for cats. Watch out for rum and raisin, chocolate, or coffee for some of the more common dangerous ice cream flavorings. Sugar-free ice cream may also contain the sweetener xylitol, which is toxic for cats. 

What about plain flavors – can cats have vanilla ice cream? While vanilla ice cream won’t cause toxicity in cats, you still shouldn’t feed it to felines due to its dairy and sugar content. Even if you avoid all of the harmful ingredients, ice cream is high in calories, which can lead to obesity.

Can Cats Eat Non-Dairy Ice Cream? 

Since cats are lactose intolerant, you may be wondering whether that makes non-dairy ice cream a safe option. However, there isn’t a simple answer, as it depends on the ingredients in the product. 

Non-dairy ice creams usually use nut milks (including coconut milk), soy milk, or oat milk to produce the ice cream, which are generally safe for cats. As long as none of the other ingredients in the ice cream are toxic, your cat can have a very small amount of non-dairy ice cream. 

The problem comes with the calories in non-dairy ice creams, which are similar in to those in regular ice cream. A cup of non-dairy ice cream may provide more calories than your cat’s daily recommended intake!

Can Cats Eat Frozen Yogurt?

Although frozen yogurt is marketed as a healthier option than ice creams for humans, it’s still really high in sugar. The main ingredients in frozen yogurt are sugar, milk, and yogurt cultures. 

Unless it’s specifically marketed as lactose-free, frozen yogurt will still contain lactose and therefore is not a suitable option for cats. 

As with the other ice cream options, a single lick of frozen yogurt won’t hurt your cat (unless it contains toxic ingredients), but large amounts can lead to an upset stomach and weight gain. 

Are Cats Lactose Intolerant?

Yes, adult cats are considered lactose intolerant. Like all mammals, kittens are born with the ability to digest lactose (a sugar in milk) because they produce lactase, an enzyme. 

But as kittens wean, they stop producing lots of lactase. Most cats older than 6-8 months therefore can’t digest much lactose. When cats eat dairy, the milk sugars can’t be properly digested and instead pass through the intestines causing diarrhea, flatulence, and abdominal pain.

Of course, cats don’t know that this will happen when they drink milk or eat cheese, so they’ll quite happily lap at a saucer of milk. 

It’s worth noting that a small number of cats do not become lactose-intolerant, and dairy products may not cause adverse reactions. However, the symptoms of lactose intolerance are present in many cats after eating dairy, suggesting that most cats are lactose intolerant to some degree.

Is Ice Cream Bad for Cats?

Unfortunately, ice cream is considered bad for cats. You probably already know that ice cream isn’t exactly good for humans. The tiny amount of protein and calcium it includes is quickly outdone by the large amounts of fat and sugar in the ice cream. And that fat and sugar doesn’t have any benefits for your feline friend. 

Aside from the potential gastrointestinal issues associated with dairy ice-cream, there’s also the risk of toxic ingredients. Raisins, nuts, chocolate, sugar-substitutes like xylitol, and coffee are all toxic to cats to some degree, meaning that you have to scour the list of ingredients if you’re thinking about letting your cat lick your ice cream cone. How sick your cat gets will depend on the amount consumed and the type of toxin, but these dangerous ingredients can cause serious problems and even be fatal.

Of course, eating small amounts of non-toxic ice cream is unlikely to cause any immediate harm, especially if the ice cream is dairy-free. 

However, it’s important to remember that ice cream is very high in calories. Even a small taste can cause your cat to exceed their daily calorie allowance. If this happens often, it will lead to obesity. Obese cats have a lower life expectancy than felines who maintain a healthy weight.  

Ice Cream and Cats: Helpful Feeding Tips

If you’ve got this far and you still want to feed your cat some of your ice cream, then here are some tips to make sure you’re doing so safely.

1. Only feed your cat ice cream as an occasional treat – no more than once every couple of weeks.

2. Don’t let your cat eat more than a tablespoon of ice cream at a time, to avoid them consuming too many calories.

3. Thoroughly check your ice cream ingredients list for allergens and feline toxins. The main ones to look out for are raisins, chocolate, coffee, macadamia nuts, alcohol, xylitol (also seen as E967 or birch sugar). However, it’s best to double-check any ingredients you aren’t 100 percent sure are safe.

4. Dairy-free ice cream prevents the risk of lactose intolerance and is the better option as long as it’s also free from toxins.

Try to avoid highly-flavored ice creams – not only do the extra toppings increase the calories, but more ingredients also increase the chance of an allergen or a toxin creeping in. 

There are also special frozen cat treats available that are marketed as ice cream for cats. These may be a better option if you’d like to offer your cat something special. These products generally use very little cream or milk, making them a safer bet. 

Even though ice cream designed for cats may be a better option, it still shouldn’t be offered regularly and should never make up more than 10 percent of your cat’s daily calorie allowance.

The Verdict on Ice Cream for Cats

Ice cream is not a healthy treat for cats and in some cases can be unsafe, depending on the ingredients used. If your cat eats ice cream with toxic ingredients you should call the nearest open veterinarian for advice. 

While a small lick of non-toxic ice cream every now and again is unlikely to do your cat much harm, consuming large amounts will likely lead to gastrointestinal problems and weight gain.

The post Can Cats Eat Ice Cream? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While many people think that dogs are protected from the sun by their coats, that’s only partially true. Dogs can – and do! – get sunburned. 

In this article we’ll cover how to treat sunburn on dogs and answer the all-important question “do dogs need sunscreen?” 

What Is a Sunburn?

Sunburn is a characteristic painful red reaction of the skin following prolonged, unprotected sun exposure. Increased blood flow to the area gives it the red color, but there are also changes to the skin cells themselves. 

The sun gives out ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This radiation is known to be highly damaging to cells and DNA, and it’s everywhere. Although our skin is well adapted to cope with repeated exposure to this carcinogen, large amounts of UV radiation can still overwhelm the skin’s natural responses, resulting in a sunburn, a radiation burn caused by UV light. 

Sunburn worries vets and doctors because damaged cells are prone to becoming cancerous. When sunlight damages the DNA of these cells, the tumor-suppressor gene p53 may be “switched off,” making skin cancer more likely.

Sunburn can be categorized into different degrees depending on how deep the burn goes. 

• First-degree sunburn only affects the outer layer of the skin
• Second-degree burns affect much deeper into the skin.
• Third-degree burns affect deeper tissues and are severe. Third-degree burns from sunlight are extremely rare.

Can Dogs Get Sunburn?

Yes, dogs can get sunburned. Thanks to their coats, dogs get burned less regularly than people do. However, it’s certainly possible for dogs to get severe and painful burns just like their human counterparts. 

Canine skin is quite similar to human skin and burns in just the same way, with a red and painful reaction.

If you’ve got a fair friend, you’ll know that pale skin burns badly! This is because melanin – the compound that causes dark skin – is protective against sunburn. Therefore, paler skin has less protection, and burns are more likely and often more severe. This is the same in dogs. 

Dogs with dark fur often have darker skin and are more protected than those with light fur. Dogs do get some sun protection from their fur, which shades the skin and blocks the UV rays before they reach the outer layers of the skin. But where there’s less fur, this protection is lost. 

This means that dogs are more likely to get sunburn if they have:

• No fur (like the Mexican Hairless)
• Very short fur (like Greyhounds and Chihuahuas)
• Bald patches or clipped areas after surgery
• Light-colored fur and skin

The areas that get the most sun are most prone to sunburn. Thin-haired areas on the back and head are most at risk – the ears, the nose, and any bald patches on the back are classic areas for dogs to get sunburned. A dog’s stomach rarely gets burned, even though it’s an area of the body with thin hair. 

Sunburn Symptoms on Dogs 

Sunburn in dogs is very similar to sunburn in humans. But because of their fur, it might be a little harder to see. 

You might notice red patches on any hairless areas. Similarly, a sunburned dog may be sensitive to touch or even itchy over the area. 

Other signs of sunburn in dogs include:

• Reaction to being petted (painful skin)
• Skin that is pink or even red
• Itchiness
• Peeling skin (seen as flakes)

In severe cases, you may see blisters, hair loss, and skin infections. Dogs can also develop fevers and increased panting.

Do Dogs Need Sunscreen?

Yes, sunscreen that is formulated specifically for dogs is recommended if you and your dog plan on spending time outdoors without access to shaded areas. This may include beach days, hiking trips, or dog-park visits on sunny, hot days. 

Sunscreen is especially important for hairless breeds or light-colored dogs. However, it is a good idea to put sunscreen on all dogs, regardless of their coat type, as a preventive measure. 

Do not use human sunscreen on dogs. Human sunblock may include toxic ingredients for dogs and can be harmful if your dog licks or ingests it.   

Dog Sunburn Treatment

Most mild cases of dog sunburn can be treated at home. However, it’s important to contact your veterinarian for an appointment if your dog has any of the signs of severe sunburn or if their skin isn’t improving after 48 hours. 

It’s also imperative that you take your dog to the nearest open veterinary clinic or emergency hospital immediately if your dog is showing any signs of heatstroke, which often goes hand-in-hand with sunburn.

At home, you should take your dog out of the sun as soon as you notice any signs of sunburn. You may be able to relieve some of the discomfort with a cold bath or cold compresses. However, you should never leave wet towels on your dog as this can cause them to heat up. Try to maintain skin moisture – moisturizing shampoos are best if you have to wash your dog’s coat. Soothing aloe vera can be applied to the area, but it’s important to get a product that is safe for sunburned dogs. If your dog has nose sunburn, try not to apply any creams as it’s likely they’ll simply lick them off. You also shouldn’t apply any products to broken or blistered skin – this is severe sunburn and needs veterinary attention.

If you have to visit a veterinary clinic for a dog sunburn, your vet will similarly apply cooling and soothing products to red skin that isn’t severely damaged. However, they will be more concerned with treating severe skin burns and may recommend medications such as pain relief and antibiotics as well as wound treatment. 

How to Prevent Dog Sunburns

There are things you can do to mitigate your dog’s risk of getting a sunburn. Follow these tips to keep your dog’s skin safe:

Watch the weather forecast. If you have a dog who is at risk of sunburn, you should watch the UV forecast. When it’s medium or high, it’s time to get out the sun protection for your dog. If you have to go outdoors, avoid the sun during hours when it is the strongest – typically between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.

Apply sunscreen. Protect any exposed areas with sunblock for dogs. This should be applied to ears, bald patches, and anywhere else you’re worried that your dog might burn. It’s very important to use a product specifically designed for pets, as many human sunscreens are toxic if your dog licks them. Aim for dog sunblock with SPF 30 or more, as dog skin doesn’t naturally have much protection against the sun. Apply dog sunscreen 20 minutes before going out and reapply regularly, especially if they’ve been swimming. 

Consider protective clothing. Where larger areas of skin are at risk, such as with Mexican Hairless dogs or those suffering with generalized alopecia, you should invest in protective clothing. Just as beach clothing for babies, this provides a thin layer that keeps your dog’s skin safe from the sun. Just remember that, although the layer is thin, it still traps some heat. You should still be aware that your dog could be at risk of heatstroke.

Avoid the sun for ultimate protection. It’s always best to avoid the sun when you can. Sunburn is not the only risk on warm-weather days. Heatstroke can quickly happen in the sun and it does kill dogs every year. Wherever possible, keep your dog in a cool house (with a fan on or air conditioning running) on extremely warm days. 

The post Can Dogs Get Sunburn? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Why Is My Dog Snoring? 

Snoring happens when air movement through the nose, mouth and throat is partially obstructed in the airways. The air vibrates tissues in the throat, which wobble and give off a characteristic snoring sound. This is more likely to happen during sleep, when muscles that hold these tissues out of the way relax, allowing them to flop into the airway. 

Dogs who snore usually have abnormal anatomy or swelling in their mouth or throat, causing the snoring sound, although sometimes their snoring will be just due to sleeping in a strange position.

Is Dog Snoring Normal?

One study showed that 58 percent of pet parents of dogs with breathing problems like snoring thought their dogs were normal. Although dog snoring is relatively common, snoring shouldn’t be ignored as it’s often a sign of an underlying problem. While the underlying problem may not always be serious, it’s best to get dog snoring investigated in case it’s a sign of something more concerning.

In some breeds, snoring is extremely common. Brachycephalic, or “short-snouted” breeds like Pugs and French Bulldogs often make snoring noises all the time. This is because their short skull cannot easily contain all of their mouth and throat tissues, causing a lot of tissue to protrude into the airway. This is called Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS). 

The same study showed that snoring affected 93 percent of dogs with BOAS, with over half snoring “almost constantly.” Although many people would say that these dogs’ snuffling and snorting sounds are “normal for the breed,” it’s still a problem and should be investigated.

Why Do Dogs Snore So Loudly?

Do you think your dog snores louder than any dog you’ve heard? The volume of a dog’s snore is due to two things:

• The speed of the air they’re breathing in
• The amount of tissue that’s causing the obstruction

Bigger dogs are likely to have a bigger snore, but this doesn’t always hold true—small dogs with very obstructed airways will snore loudly, too. 

Despite this, it’s pretty standard for dogs to sound like they’re snoring quite loudly for their size and louder snores are more common in dogs with narrower airways, so a loud snore is more concerning than a quiet one.

What Causes Snoring in Dogs? 

If you’ve noticed your dog’s snoring, you’re right to be concerned. There’s always a cause, some of which are more serious than others. Let’s have a look at the common causes of snoring in dogs:

Body Position

One of the milder causes of snoring in dogs, positional snoring only happens when your dog is in a specific position, like on their back. Their tongue or soft tissues flop over their airway, causing the snore. If your dog only ever snores when deep asleep in an unusual position, this is likely the cause. Thankfully, positional snoring is not a concern as long as your dog doesn’t suffer from sleep apnea.

Dog Sleep Apnea

Sleep apnea occurs when normal breathing stops during sleep. Affected animals will stop breathing for several seconds and then suddenly wake, often with a snort. Luckily, sleep apnea in dogs is rare. 

BOAS

As previously mentioned, Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS) is a condition affecting short-snouted dogs. Repeated breeding for shorter snouts has resulted in dogs with smaller nostrils and shorter skulls but normal-length soft palates. The soft palate dangles into the throat, causing the snuffling, snorting and snoring sounds so common in these breeds. A lifetime of breathing past this partial obstruction can cause other parts of the throat to swell or change, further reducing the airway. 

BOAS is more likely to be the cause of snoring if you have one of the following breeds:

• Pug
• French Bulldog
• English Bulldog
• Pomeranian
• Boston Terrier
• Lhasa Apso
• Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
• Pekingese
• Shih Tsu

Obesity

Obesity is another cause of snoring, as excess fat can build up around the mouth and throat tissues, causing them to protrude into the airways and disrupt air movement. Obesity in dogs can occur alongside other causes of snoring and worsen it.

Allergies

Your dog might start snoring if the nasal passages are inflamed due to an allergy. Snoring is unlikely to be the only symptom of allergies in dogs, but it might be seen alongside other signs. These might include itching, licking the feet, ear infections or sneezing. 

Respiratory Disease

Any disease of the airways, such as kennel cough, can cause the throat to become inflamed and cause snoring. Snoring won’t be the only symptom of the disease – you’ll likely see coughing or sneezing as well.

When Should I Worry About My Dog’s Snoring?

Discussing your dog’s snoring with your veterinarian is always best before trying dog snoring remedies at home. If your dog suddenly starts snoring and it isn’t related to only one sleeping position, you should book a check-up in the next week. You should book an appointment even sooner if your dog has started snoring while awake. 

If your snoring dog is a brachycephalic breed, you should book an appointment with your vet in the next few weeks to have them assessed for BOAS. Some things can be done to help dogs with BOAS, so it’s worth having the assessment performed.

If your senior dog has started snoring, they also need a check-up. Old age isn’t a cause of snoring alone and suggests there’s something else happening you should investigate.

If your dog is snoring only occasionally or at particular times of the year, you don’t need to bring them to the vet until their next routine check-up. However, if you notice them deteriorate, you should move the appointment forward. Signs that your dog needs an urgent veterinary appointment include:

• Fast breathing (more than 40 breaths in a minute when sleeping) or continuous panting
• Struggling to breathe (increased effort, ribs moving more than usual)
• Blue-tinged lips or tongue
• Snoring accompanied by coughing or collapse

How Do I Stop My Dog From Snoring? 

If your dog’s snoring is keeping you awake at night, you might be hoping for some snoring remedies for dogs. You should first consult your vet – they’ll advise surgery, a diet plan, or medications if appropriate.

At home, you may wish to try changing your dog’s bed. Take note of which positions cause your dog to snore and see if there’s a bed that prevents your dog from sleeping in those positions. For instance, you might want a dog bed with raised sides for your dog to rest their head on. Some people also suggest using a humidifier – although it won’t stop your dog from snoring, it might make their snore a little quieter. 

Related Conditions 

• BOAS (Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome)
• Obesity

The post Dog Snoring: Is it Normal? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

A small amount of mucus in stools can be normal, but dog poop covered in mucus is a common symptom that veterinarians see regularly. While many causes of mucus are mild, there are a few to look out for—so let’s look at everything you need to know about mucus in dog poop.

Mucus in Dog Poop: What Does it Look Like?

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A lot of people find it difficult to recognize mucus in their dog’s poop. So what does mucus in poop look like?

I often describe mucus as “jelly” or “slime”—it’s usually clear and sticky, and covers all or part of your dog’s poop. You may also see chunks of jelly-mucus in your dog’s poop, especially if they have diarrhea. 

It’s also possible for mucus in dog stool to be colored. White mucus in dog poop is the most common color, but mucus can also be green. Green mucus in dog poop may be due to food colorings or eating grass, but can also suggest a bacterial infection. 

If your dog is pooping mucus that is red, this is usually blood (although again can be due to food coloring). Bloody mucus in dog poop is not an emergency, but it is concerning. It’s usually caused by burst blood vessels in the last part of the gut—the colon—and suggests inflammation or straining, both of which are common in dogs with diarrhea.

What Causes Mucus in Dog Poop?

Mucus is the normal lining of your dog’s intestines. It’s secreted by large bowel cells to help feces move through the gut properly (it’s an intestinal lubricant), so small amounts of mucus in poop are completely normal, and usually go unnoticed. 

Another normal cause of mucus in dog poop is prolonged exercise. In one study, 16 percent of sled racing dogs had mucoid poop during racing. 

Poop with mucus in it suggests that your dog is suffering from colitis (large bowel inflammation). Dogs with colitis will also have several other symptoms such as loose stools, straining, and increased urgency and frequency of needing to go for bathroom breaks. 

Causes of colitis in dogs (and therefore mucus in your dog’s poop) include:

Sudden Dietary Changes

If you’ve just run out of your dog’s food and had to switch to something different, this can cause temporary colitis. That’s why it’s important to transition to new foods slowly. Similarly, dogs that scavenge while on walks are prone to bouts of diarrhea and colitis from the sudden dietary change or even from toxins in whatever they pick up. 

It’s common for dogs to go off their food and be a little lethargic when colitis is caused by diet changes. Luckily, this type of colitis usually resolves after a few days.

Bacterial Infection

When bacterial toxins reach the large bowel they can cause inflammation and excess mucus production. Common bacteria that cause colitis are food-borne pathogens such as Salmonella and E.coli. 

Many dogs pick these bacteria up while out and about, but it’s worth remembering that dogs being fed a raw diet are at higher risk of eating these bacteria in their food. Apart from stool covered in mucus, bacterial infections like these can also cause inappetence and vomiting, and may progress to more severe effects if not treated.

Parasite Infection

Infection with gastrointestinal parasites (commonly called ‘worms’) often causes loose stools or diarrhea with mucus. Whipworm and roundworm are common culprits. Giardia and cryptosporidium are two microscopic parasites that commonly cause dog poop to be covered in mucus. They’re more common in young puppies and can be difficult to get rid of, not responding to the usual deworming medications.

Irritable Bowel Disease (IBD)

Like people, dogs can suffer from irritable bowel disease and this can cause symptoms of colitis and mucus in their stool. This is usually down to a food intolerance—a reaction to a specific protein in their diet. You may see other signs, such as weight loss, reluctance to eat, and occasionally vomiting. Itchy skin is also a sign of food allergies so may be seen alongside mucus in your dog’s stool.

Stress

One of the most common causes of colitis is stress. Stress increases the speed that the intestinal contents move through the guts. This means the food isn’t processed properly, causing the bacteria in the intestines to have more nutrients than usual. The resulting bacterial activity can cause diarrhea and mucus in poop. You may have seen other signs and know the cause of stress—recent fireworks or a change in routine are common causes—or it may be that your dog has ongoing minor stress that shows only as mucus in their poop.

Leishmania

Leishmania is a blood-borne disease carried by sandflies. Colitis has been found to be caused by leishmania, although this is a rare symptom. More common symptoms include skin problems, eye problems, and nosebleeds, along with weight loss and lethargy. 

Granulomatous Colitis of Boxer Dogs

This rare condition causes mucus in dog poop in Boxers alongside weight loss, bloody stool, and other colitis symptoms. In this disease, the intestinal wall becomes inflamed, thickened, and ulcerated in response to E.coli.

Mucus in Dog Poop: When to Seek Help

If your adult dog has a mild case of mucus in his or her poop, you may decide to simply monitor your dog at home. For instance, if your dog’s diet has recently changed and they get mucus in their stool but are otherwise well, it’s likely this will resolve in a couple of days.

However, if the mucus does not resolve or your dog’s diarrhea gets worse, it’s a good idea to see a veterinarian.

Puppies need to see a veterinarian as soon as they become unwell. This is because they can quickly deteriorate and become dehydrated. 

Dogs who are showing other symptoms or dogs with colitis lasting more than a couple of days also need to see a veterinarian for investigation and treatment. Symptoms that suggest an urgent vet visit is required include:

• Vomiting (especially if more than once)
• Tarry (black-colored) feces
• Large amounts of blood in feces
• Lethargy, reluctance to exercise
• Weight loss, or thin body condition score
•  Inappetence (not eating) lasting more than 24 hours

Don’t forget that colitis that reoccurs is also a problem, even if each episode is mild and short-lasting. Recurrent mucoid poops can be a sign of an ongoing internal problem so should be investigated, even if your dog is normal between episodes.

If your dog requires veterinary care for mucus in their poop, having a pet health insurance policy such as Lemonade can help defray unexpected medical expenses. With premiums that start as low as $10 per month, you can customize your coverage according to your specific needs and budget.

How to Treat Mucus in Dog Poop

The treatment your dog will need depends on the cause of mucus in their poop. For some dogs, the mucus will be a one-time issue that resolves itself after a couple of days.

For other dogs, treatments may be more intensive. Parasites will need to be treated with a prescription dewormer, such as Interceptor Plus or Heartgard Plus. If Giardia is the culprit, your vet may prescribe Panacur, which can be more effective than traditional dewormers. Bacterial infections will need antibiotics, such as Baytril (enrofloxacin), metronidazole, or tylosin. Dogs with recurrent episodes of colitis and mucus in their poop may require a prescription diet, such as Royal Canin Gastrointestinal High Fiber dog food.

Home Remedies

If your dog is acting normal and still has energy and an appetite, you can try offering them a bland diet of boiled chicken and white rice at home for a few days.

Some causes of colitis and mucus can be improved by altering the level of fiber in the diet or with probiotics, such as Purina Pro Plan FortiFlora. Diet changes may also be needed with IBD, although in this case, it’s best to work with a veterinarian to determine the food allergen and remove it from your dog’s diet. A highly-digestible, low-allergen diet, such as Royal Canin Hydrolyzed Protein HP may be helpful here.

If your dog’s poop does not improve after a few days on a bland diet or if your dog’s symptoms get worse, you should contact your veterinarian.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Why does my dog have mucus in his poop?

Mucus in dog poop can be caused by a variety of things ranging from stress and dietary changes to bacterial infections, diseases, and allergies and food intolerances. If your dog is experiencing mucus from stress or something they ate, the mucus should resolve on its own in a few days. However, if you notice dog poop with mucus that lasts for more than a few days, you should see a veterinarian to determine the cause and best course of treatment.

Is mucus in dog poop bad?

Mucus in dog poop is not necessarily something to worry about if your dog is acting normal and it resolves in a few days. However, green mucus could indicate a bacterial infection or bloody mucus could signal inflammation in the colon due to stress colitis or food intolerances. If the mucus lasts more than a few days, your dog’s diarrhea gets worse, or your dog begins to show other symptoms or is acting differently (lethargic, doesn’t want to eat, etc.) you should see a veterinarian.

Can stress cause diarrhea in dogs?

Yes, stress can cause diarrhea in dogs and this diarrhea may contain mucus. This is called stress colitis and can happen if a dog experiences physical (surgery, increased activity, trauma) or mental stress (boarding, veterinary visit, separation anxiety, moving, etc.). Stress causes an overgrowth of harmful bacteria in your dog’s gut and can result in diarrhea and mucus in your dog’s stools.

Conclusion

If your dog has mucus in their poop, it’s likely they’re suffering from colitis, or inflammation of the large bowel. There are many causes of colitis, most of which are mild or self-limiting. Some will need further investigations and treatment, especially if your dog doesn’t recover within a couple of days or shows other signs. 

Bottom line—if you see mucus in your dog’s poop, keep a close eye on your dog for other symptoms or changes and call your veterinarian if things don’t improve or you have any concerns. 

The post Mucus in Dog Poop: Causes and How to Treat It appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Chickpeas can be purchased in most stores—either dried or canned in water or brine. You will also come across chickpea products such as hummus (which is made from blended chickpeas) and gram flour (dried and ground chickpeas). 

Chickpeas are high in protein, which makes them a popular ingredient for those eating vegetarian or vegan diets. But can dogs eat chickpeas? Let’s take a look…

Can Dogs Have Chickpeas? 

The good news is that chickpeas are safe for dogs to eat. In fact, they’re becoming a popular ingredient in pet foods, usually as a carbohydrate replacement in grain-free foods. 

In 2017, a survey of pet foods available in the U.S. found that over 11 percent of dry dog foods and 2 percent of wet dog foods included chickpeas. So, chickpeas—at least in most forms—are definitely safe for dogs to eat.  

Benefits of Chickpeas for Dogs

So now we know chickpeas are safe for dogs, the next question is whether they’re a healthy addition to dog diets. 

According to the USDA FoodData Central database, chickpeas contain nearly 9 grams of protein and 8 grams of fiber per 100g product, making them a high-protein, high-fiber vegetable. The rest of the weight of chickpea comes as carbohydrates and water, with only a very small amount of fat. 

Chickpeas contain vitamins and minerals too—magnesium, potassium, copper, calcium, Vitamin A and B-complex vitamins are all present in varying amounts. This means chickpeas are not only safe, they’re a relatively healthy option for dogs to eat.

Since chickpeas contain so much protein, it’s common for people to ask if dogs can be on a vegan diet if they eat chickpeas. However, although they pack a protein punch, chickpeas don’t necessarily have the right amino acids—the building blocks of protein—to make them suitable as a sole protein for dogs. For example, chickpeas are lacking in methionine, and only contain low levels of cysteine, both of which are essential for dogs. Chickpeas therefore should never be your dog’s only protein source.

In commercial dog food, chickpeas tend to be most frequently added to grain-free dry diets. During processing, traditional grains provide starch and structure that help the kibble to form. With a grain-free food, this function is performed by legumes like chickpeas. So, although the diet will take into account the protein, fiber, and micronutrients provided by chickpeas, they’re likely present for their starch content. 

How to Feed Chickpeas to Dogs

If you think chickpeas for dogs sounds like a great idea, you’ll want to know how best to feed them to your dog. Of course, the simplest way to feed your dog chickpeas is to buy a diet that includes them in the ingredients list. But if you’re looking to add chickpeas as a snack or treat, you’ll have to get a bit more inventive.

You can add chickpeas to your dog’s food, or use them as a training treat—they’re the perfect size! However, it’s important to be snack savvy when it comes to your pet and follow the golden rules outlined below.

Precautions When Feeding Chickpeas to Dogs

If you decide to feed your dog chickpeas, there are a few things you need to be aware of.

First, you should only ever feed cooked chickpeas. Dried chickpeas are difficult to eat and can cause illness, so cook dried chickpeas before feeding or stick to canned chickpea options. 

When feeding canned chickpeas to dogs, check the label carefully. Some canned chickpeas are packaged in brine, which contains too much excess salt for dogs. Look for chickpeas in water and without added ingredients.

Secondly, you should only ever feed your dog chickpeas in moderation. Chickpeas are not a complete and balanced food, so their calories need to be attributed to your dog’s treat count. A dog can have 10 percent of their daily calorie allowance from unbalanced sources. For a fit 25-pound dog this is just 60 calories. Don’t forget to take off any calories for dental chews, other snacks, or training treats before you work out how many chickpeas your dog is allowed each day, and adjust your dog’s dinner rations accordingly. 

It’s worth mentioning that grain-free canine diets containing large proportions of legumes like chickpeas have been implicated in the FDA’s investigation of diet-related dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), a heart condition in dogs. While chickpeas in dog food weren’t highlighted in the study, this might just be because fewer diets contain chickpeas than contain peas. This is another good reason to keep your dog’s chickpea ration to a minimum until we know more.

You should also ensure that when you first feed chickpeas to your dog, you feed a small amount—just one or two chickpeas—and monitor their reaction for 48 hours. This allows you to check for allergies or intolerances. 

In addition, chickpeas have a moderate to high fiber content and feeding too much too quickly can result in stomach upset. 

Can Dogs Eat Hummus?

Hummus is a dip made from chickpeas blended with various flavorings and oils. It’s popular as a dip or served on flatbreads, which means your dog may well try to sneak a taste. So, can dogs eat hummus? 

While the chickpeas in hummus are safe for dogs, the rest of the ingredients in the hummus may not be safe. Garlic, olive oil, and lemon juice are common ingredients in plain hummus, but some versions can include extra spices, onions, chillies, or herbs, among other things. Many of these ingredients are toxic or unhealthy for dogs, so make sure you check the ingredients list carefully. 

If you want to feed your dog hummus, the safest way to do so is to make your own, and add only dog-safe ingredients. Try not to add extra oil to the hummus, loosening it with water instead, as too much fat can make your dog ill.

The Chickpea Conclusion

Plain, cooked chickpeas are safe for dogs in moderation, and they’re even included as an ingredient in commercial dog foods. 

If you want to try chickpeas for dogs, it’s best to feed them only occasionally, in moderation, as a treat. Chickpeas shouldn’t make up too much of your dog’s diet as they’re not a balanced source of protein and are high in fiber, which can upset the gut. 

While chickpea allergies are very rare, you should still watch your dog carefully after first introducing chickpeas to make sure there are no adverse reactions. 

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The truth is that aflatoxins have been found in many commercial pet foods, and they can be fatal. We’re going to look at what aflatoxins are, how aflatoxin poisoning might happen in dogs, and what to do if you’re worried.

What is Aflatoxin?

Aflatoxin is a type of mycotoxin—a name given to natural toxins produced by mold (fungi) (1). These molds grow on certain foods in particular conditions—mostly in warm and humid climates. In fact, it’s estimated that 25 percent of the world’s food crops are contaminated with mycotoxins (2). 

Aflatoxin B₁ is one of the most common and most poisonous mycotoxins. It’s usually produced by Aspergillus molds, which usually grow on crops such as rice, wheat and corn, and some nuts and seeds. 

Dogs are particularly susceptible to aflatoxins, tolerating less than 50 parts per billion before symptoms of aflatoxin poisoning start (3). This makes dogs at least four times more susceptible than pigs and more than six times more susceptible than cattle. 

Once eaten, the aflatoxin is absorbed into the bloodstream and makes its way to the liver, where it is transformed to an epoxide that binds to DNA (4). This not only damages the liver, but tiny, non-fatal doses over a long period can cause growth problems, immunosuppression, and cancer (3). A recent study found a correlation between low-level aflatoxin exposure and mammary (breast) cancer in dogs (5).

Causes of Aflatoxin Poisoning in Dogs

Dogs generally get aflatoxin poisoning through eating contaminated foods. This can be caused by homemade foods (6), commercial pet foods (7), or even something that a dog has scavenged on a walk. Aflatoxin poisonings often occur in outbreaks, because one moldy batch of food can be eaten by many pets. However, aflatoxin poisoning doesn’t generally spread from pet to pet. 

Aflatoxin in Dog Food

Aflatoxins are mainly produced by mold from the Aspergillus family. These molds are common in tropical and subtropical parts of the world (4) and tend to grow on:

• Corn
• Wheat
• Rice
• Peanuts
• Sunflower seeds
• Nuts (Brazil nuts, walnuts, pistachio nuts, pine nuts)
• Pumpkin seeds
• Lentils
• Dairy products and eggs (Aflatoxin M₁)
• Potatoes and sweet potatoes
• Herbs and spices
• Dried fruits

These toxins can grow in the field or in storage, but growth is more likely at certain temperatures and humidity. Because of this, particular times of the year or storage conditions can be riskier for aflatoxin growth. 

Moldy food almost certainly contains mycotoxins, including aflatoxins, and should never be fed to dogs. However, aflatoxins can survive food preparation conditions, and can therefore be present in invisible amounts in the finished product. This can be true for commercial foods (4) or even for snacks like peanut butter. 

While dog food contamination with aflatoxin is rare (8), it can be extremely serious. Keeping an eye on dog food recalls is always a sensible precaution.

Aflatoxin Dog Food Recall: What to Do

The dog food industry tries very hard to ensure that aflatoxins are not present in pet foods. First, they have stringent ingredient quality checks, and they conduct sorting to ensure damaged grains don’t enter the food. Heat and pressure kill any fungus remaining, but cannot destroy any toxin they have already produced. Binding ingredients can also be added to the dog food to reduce the absorption of any aflatoxins in the feed (9). Good storage and testing protocols developed by specialists ensure that contamination is rare, and any problems are usually caught (and acted upon) at an early stage (10, 11). 

Despite all this, pet food recalls due to aflatoxin contamination do occur, on average less than one per year (9). A recall usually covers a batch, or several batches that were known to be produced at the same time, and it doesn’t necessarily mean that every bag in the batch will be affected. Sometimes, like in the recent Sunshine Mills recall, a single affected bag is found on routine testing, and the decision is made to recall the batch just in case other bags are affected. 

If your dog food brand issues an aflatoxin dog food recall, check the information carefully to make sure it’s the same flavor, range, and composition as the one your dog eats. If you have the packaging, you should check the lot number against those in the recall to confirm you have an affected batch (12).

If your dog food is part of a aflatoxin recall:

1. Stop feeding the food immediately.
2. Contact your veterinarian and arrange for all animals that have eaten the food to be examined.
3. Contact the company to return the food, or throw away the food in such a way that pets, humans, and wildlife cannot access it. 
4. Wash storage tubs, scoops, pet bowls and anything else that has been in contact with the food in hot, soapy water, then sanitize with bleach. Rinse well and allow to dry thoroughly.
5. Wash your hands after handling dog food, regardless of whether it’s been recalled.

Aflatoxin Symptoms in Dogs

If your dog is unlucky enough to eat some aflatoxin-contaminated foods, they can experience a range of symptoms including lethargy, vomiting, and appetite loss. On examination, they may have jaundice, seen as a yellowish tint to the gums and eyes. 

You may also notice these symptoms of aflatoxin poisoning in dogs:

• Bruising and unexplained bleeding
• Weakness
• Diarrhea
• Vomiting
• Lethargy
• Jaundice
• Appetite loss
• Increased thirst
• Dark urine
• Collapse

While some of these aflatoxin symptoms are obvious and sudden, smaller doses of aflatoxin can build up over time, causing subtle signs that are easy to miss. This unfortunately means that several weeks may have passed since the exposure, making diagnosis difficult.

Tiny doses over a long period of time can cause longer-term health problems such as cancer and immunosuppression (3).

Unfortunately, dogs that are exposed to aflatoxins or experience aflatoxin poisoning are at risk of death or euthanasia due to the severity of the condition. 

Diagnosing Aflatoxin Poisoning in Dogs

If your dog is showing symptoms, or they’ve had known contact with a recalled batch of dog food, they should see a vet immediately. The liver damage caused by aflatoxins doesn’t always show straight away, meaning a veterinary examination and blood tests are required to determine if an animal is affected.

Blood tests check for several liver enzymes, which may be raised in cases of liver damage. A clotting profile also indicates whether liver damage may be affecting your dog’s ability to clot blood. 

Liver biopsies may also be required (13), which is the best way to confirm the diagnosis. However, this procedure cannot be performed on a severely ill dog—especially one with clotting problems. 

Urine tests are being developed that can help to diagnose aflatoxins in dog urine (14).

The dog’s food can also be tested, but it’s important to realize that a negative result doesn’t necessarily rule out aflatoxin toxicity as the cause for the symptoms. The dog could still have eaten the aflatoxins at the end of an old batch of food or while scavenging out on a walk.

Aflatoxin Poisoning in Dogs: Treatment

There is no specific treatment or antidote for suspected aflatoxin poisoning, so most veterinarians or emergency hospitals will support your dog’s liver in hope that it can heal. This requires intensive care at a veterinary hospital to allow regular medications and monitoring. 

However, it’s important to realize that the prognosis for aflatoxin poisoning, especially in dogs showing symptoms, is poor, and euthanasia is a common choice for these dogs.

Medications for Aflatoxin Poisoning

Since dogs are often not eating and may have had vomiting or diarrhea, hospitalization for a drip (intravenous fluids) is usually necessary. Anti-vomiting medication and antibiotics will usually also be given, alongside a suitable liver-safe balanced diet. N-acetylcysteine may also help the liver to produce the enzymes it needs to get rid of aflatoxin from the body (15).

Dogs that survive the initial poisoning may often have ongoing liver problems. Silymarin (Milk Thistle) and SAMe are two liver-supporting nutrients that may be given to dogs with aflatoxin poisoning, and may also be used alongside Vitamin E and zinc. Dogs may have to have these supplements for life. 

General Cost to Treat Aflatoxin Poisoning in Dogs 

Because it needs intensive treatment, aflatoxin poisoning costs are high. In dogs presenting to the vet with symptoms, the care is likely to cost $3,000 or more if they survive and are discharged. It’s also likely that dogs will need continual medication and regular checkups for life, which will further add to the cost of treatment and care.

If the aflatoxin is found to be related to a diet, the food manufacturer may help with costs in some cases. Pet insurance will also often cover these costs, so it’s worth exploring your financing options when making a decision about your pet’s treatment. 

Aflatoxin in Dogs Prevention

Since aflatoxin poisoning is serious, you might be wondering how to avoid aflatoxin in dog food. There’s no definitive way to prevent your pet from aflatoxin poisoning, but there are some things you can do to help reduce their risk. 

Seek out quality dog food brands. Buy food from reputable manufacturers with proper testing and recall procedures in place.

Consult pet nutritionists. If you are home-making food, consult with a veterinary nutritionist for advice on reducing the risk of using contaminated ingredients.

Practice proper storage. Store purchased pet food in its original container – this keeps it fresher as well as means you have the lot number to check against batch recalls.

Hold on to lot numbers. Save lot numbers and UPC labels for at least 3 months after a bag of food is finished – an envelope in a drawer works well.

Stay informed about recalls. Keep an eye out for dog food recalls so that you are aware as soon as possible of any problems with your chosen food.

Check your dog food stash. Dry kibble dog foods are usually too dry to grow molds, but you should throw away food that gets damp or stale, as this can lead to mold growth and production of mycotoxins.

Practice good food hygiene at home. Refrigerate wet food after opening, use the food by the best before date, don’t feed food that looks moldy or smells off, and regularly clean your dog’s bowls to reduce their risk of food-borne illness.

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What Is Eucalyptus Oil?

Eucalyptus oil is an essential oil that is distilled from the leaves of certain species of eucalyptus tree, also known as blue gum tree. Eucalyptus trees are native to Australia but are now widely grown worldwide as ornamental trees and for their medicinal properties (3).

Leaves of the eucalyptus (usually Eucalyptus globulus (4) but there are other varieties (5) used for essential oils) are chopped and placed into distilling apparatus (6). This sends steam through the leaves, which collects the oil as it goes. Once the steam reaches the top of the apparatus, it hits a cold surface where it condenses back into liquid water and oil. These are collected, and left to separate—like most oils, the essential oil floats on the surface of the water, meaning separating the two is easy.

Eucalyptus oil is mostly made of eucalyptol, also known as cineole (7). This active ingredient has been used for thousands of years for a variety of medicinal uses, as well as being used in foods, perfumes, and pesticides (6). Eucalyptol is thought to have anti-inflammatory effects, and has historically been used to treat dental disease, respiratory problems, headaches and head lice (8, 9, 10, 11, 12).

Is Eucalyptus Oil Safe for Dogs?

Whether or not eucalyptus oil is safe for dogs is a bit of a minefield. Not only have there been very few studies done, there are a range of products available, some with more eucalyptol than others, making any definitive answer difficult.

The ASPCA lists eucalyptus as a toxic plant to dogs and the Blue Cross agrees, listing it as “very poisonous to dogs” due to the eucalyptol the plants contain. Dogs are not allergic to eucalyptus oil, but eucalyptol may still be toxic due to liver or kidney damage (13, 14).

Eucalyptus essential oil is a purified, concentrated form of the plant, which means it’s more potent, and therefore more dangerous. It is toxic when ingested, causing vomiting, diarrhea, depression, lethargy, and seizures in humans, with a dose of just 3.5ml being known to be fatal to an adult human, although some people have recovered from higher doses than this (15, 16, 17). It appears that the symptoms cannot be accurately predicted by the dose, but we know that children are known to be more susceptible to the effects (18). But we don’t know how much eucalyptus oil is toxic to dogs.

Animals can also absorb eucalyptol through their skin, meaning that essential oils placed directly onto the skin can also cause symptoms (19). This is also true of diffusing eucalyptus oil, which can land on animals and be absorbed, or groomed off and ingested. Diffusing eucalyptus oil and dogs are a bad combination—so keep your dog well away from your diffuser, ideally in another room.

Eucalyptus Oil Benefits for Dogs

Interestingly, it’s unclear whether eucalyptus oil has any benefits in humans, let alone dogs. The US National Library of Medicine advises there is not enough evidence to recommend it for any of the diseases it has historically been used for (18). The European Committee on Herbal Medicine Products, on the other hand, concluded that eucalyptus leaf can be marketed for use for a “cough associated with a cold”—not because there was evidence of effectiveness, but because the treatment gets an herbal medicine exemption (20).

So, what about dogs? Well, there are no studies proving a benefit to dogs. It’s likely that, at the right concentrations, lemon eucalyptus oil repels fleas and other biting insects (21)—but it’s not clear whether those concentrations of essential oils are safe for dogs or not. There’s also some evidence that eucalyptus oil helps reduce pain from gout arthritis in mice (22). Whether this is true of other forms of arthritis, and in other species, is yet to be seen.

Other than the possible repellent effect, it looks like eucalyptus oil doesn’t have any clear benefits for dogs.

Pet Products That Contain Eucalyptus Oil

Despite this lack of evidence, plenty of pet products contain eucalyptus oil. While many use it simply as a deodorizer, some include it for its possible antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and insect-repellent effects.

Eucalyptus oil can be found in dog shampoos and sprays as a deodorant. Ear wipes and cleaners also sometimes include eucalyptus oil, although whether for the bug-repellent properties or nice scent, it’s not clear. There are also natural flea spot-ons, collars, and powders available that contain lemon eucalyptus oil for dogs.

While these products probably contain very little eucalyptus oil, and it’s usually very dilute, there is still a potential risk to your pet if you use them. The truth is, we just don’t know how much eucalyptus oil is toxic. Even if we did, every dog is different, and a dog’s susceptibility to eucalyptus may also change over time—for instance, if the dog develops liver disease or develops a skin disease that causes them to groom themselves more. 

“Natural” products don’t necessarily have the same rigorous testing as medications, and this can lead to toxic products making it onto the market. ASPCA Animal Poison Control has had several cases of side effects and even death from “natural” flea products containing essential oils (23).

Eucalyptus Oil for Fleas on Dogs: Does it Work?

There is some evidence that eucalyptus oil, topically applied, might help to get rid of head lice in humans (18). However, lice and fleas differ in one major aspect—head lice cannot live without a human, so topical applications can kill all lice in an infestation. Fleas, on the other hand, regularly hop on and off pets, spend time in the environment, and conduct large parts of their life cycle in your carpet and home.

While a topical application of shampoo or oil might kill the fleas on your pet, 95 percent of the infestation is safe from topical flea treatments. In addition, you’ll need highly concentrated eucalyptus oil treatments to kill fleas effectively—and this could be enough to be toxic to dogs.

While there is currently no evidence that eucalyptus is a safe and effective flea repellant for dogs, the Centers for Disease Control does consider it to be effective to repel mosquitoes in humans (21). However, it only lasts eight hours after application to human skin—a dog’s fur and differences in the skin layer may affect the time it works for dogs, and regular application may be dangerous. More evidence is needed for its use as a flea preventative in dogs.

Eucalyptus Oil and Dogs: Precautions to Take

With no proven benefits, and evidence that eucalyptus oil is bad for dogs, it might be best to avoid using eucalyptus oil altogether on your dog, unless prescribed by a holistic or herbal veterinarian, who may use safe doses of eucalyptus as part of a treatment plan (24). 

If you do use eucalyptus oil or eucalyptus products for dogs, here are some safety aspects to consider:

• Never use concentrated eucalyptus oil—it should be properly diluted.
• Never apply products to broken skin
• Never use eucalyptus oil, no matter how diluted, on small dogs and puppies
• Don’t use eucalyptus oil on your dog if your cat could come into contact with it
• Don’t use eucalyptus oil in a diffuser in the same room as your pets

There is no good evidence to support using eucalyptus oil in pets, but that hasn’t prevented it from being included in a number of pet products. While these small doses are likely to be safe, it’s best to remain cautious, as eucalyptol is known to be extremely toxic in the wrong concentrations. If you do want to use herbal medicine on your dog, talk to a member of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, who will be able to provide you with advice and guidance about eucalyptus oil and dogs.

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One thing we do know? It’s almost certainly more common than we think, because dogs hide their symptoms so well! 

Dog Back Pain Symptoms: Signs of Trouble

There are lots of different causes of canine back pain. Every dog is different, so symptoms may not be the same from dog to dog. But here are some signs that might signal back pain:

Stiffness. Some dogs might appear more stiff than usual. 

Limping. If your dog is limping, it’s possible that your dog has back pain. But limping can point to other problems like a pulled muscle, sprain, or paw problems, too. 

A change in gait. Is your dog walking differently—such as a sway in the walk or a short stride? This could be a signal of back problems. A change in gait is also common in pets with arthritis. 

Holding their head low. Dogs with upper back pain and neck pain may also hold their head low and stiff and appear depressed. 

Mood and behavior changes. You may even find that your dog becomes grumpy, or avoids contact with you or other pets. This could signal your dog is in pain. 

There are many different signs of back pain in dogs. Some dogs will cry out, but others may be more stoic, making the signs easy to miss.

Of course, there are some types of back problems in dogs that are very easy to spot. A slipped disk usually occurs with a jolt—such as jumping off the sofa or during play. These dogs will cry out and freeze to instinctively protect their backs. They may walk away very stiffly, or may be weak or unable to walk at all if there is nerve damage. 

This sort of sudden back pain is always an emergency and you should take your dog to the vet ASAP.

Chronic, ongoing back pain is trickier to diagnose. Dogs don’t know that pain relief exists, so they don’t know that they should tell us they’re sore. As mentioned, dogs with chronic back pain may be a little stiff, or have changed their behavior to protect themselves. They may lie down and get up differently, or eat their food more slowly. 

Dogs with lower back pain may also struggle to go to the bathroom properly, as they find it hard to get into the correct position. 

Causes of Back Pain in Dogs

There are lots of causes of back pain in dogs. Some are very serious, and others are common, minor pains associated with old age. The following conditions can cause back pain in dogs:

Spinal Arthritis 

Spinal arthritis is a common cause of back pain in dogs, but it’s hard to determine how painful it is. The spine has hundreds of tiny joints that, when affected with arthritis, cause grating pain when a dog moves. 

Remember that arthritis doesn’t just affect older dogs. Boxers and German Shepherds often get spinal arthritis at a younger age, and dogs that have had injuries of the back sometimes develop it.  

Discospondylitis

Discospondylitis is another disease that causes back pain. In this case, a bacterial infection causes inflammation in the vertebrae. This condition is very painful for dogs. Dogs diagnosed with it usually respond well to antibiotics, but are likely to go on to have spinal arthritis.

IVDD

Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD) is a very serious and painful disease of the spine. In IVDD, discs can prolapse (known as a slipped disc) or protrude. This disc material puts pressure on the spinal cord, causing severe pain and even paralysis of the legs in some cases. The amount of damage depends on the location and severity of the prolapse. IVDD is more common in some breeds, such as Dachshunds. 

Spinal Trauma

Spinal fractures are not common, but can occur in dogs who are fed a poor diet or have been in an accident. Dogs can also have neck pain and even fractures related to poor use of dog collars during training.

Pulled Muscles, Strains, and Sprains

Muscle and soft tissue injuries are also possible. Just as your back may be sore after exercise, your dog’s might be too. This is especially true of sport dogs such as agility dogs, who do a lot of exercise, twisting and turning in the air. If your dog has pulled a muscle in their back, they may walk stiffly or prefer not to walk at all. They may also cry out when attempting to run or jump. Often these dogs will heal without incident, sometimes just needing some time to rest.

Meningitis

Lastly, meningitis is an important cause of back pain in dogs. The meninges is a layer that covers the brain and spinal cord, and in meningitis it becomes inflamed. Unlike humans, who contract meningitis from bacteria, dogs usually have a sterile meningitis. This type flares up their immune system, causing severe spinal pain without any bacterial or fungal infection. 

Meningitis usually affects young dogs. They’re usually depressed, have a lack of appetite, and they may vomit. But, most importantly, they are unable to move their necks much, and will often yelp if it’s attempted. These dogs can be treated by a veterinarian and will often make a full recovery over time.

Back Pain Treatment for Dogs

The treatment options for back pain in dogs depend on the cause of the pain. Treatment regimens may consist of one or a combination of the following:

Pain Medications

Where there is pain, pain medications are essential. Your vet will likely prescribe pain medications like non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medications. 

Rest 

Regardless of exactly what is going on with your dog’s back, rest is usually also prescribed. This is to prevent further damage to the spine. Your veterinarian will tell you the level of rest expected, but crate rest is usually recommended. This means your dog needs to stay in their crate at all times, except for bathroom breaks. Bathroom breaks are usually done on leash so you can maintain control of your dog and prevent them from making any sudden movement.

Surgery

For spinal fractures and certain types of IVDD, dog spine surgery might be necessary. This type of surgery is extremely sensitive and should only be carried out by somebody with specialized qualifications and experience. It is likely that you’ll have to travel to a referral center for this sort of treatment. Spinal surgery is often expensive, but it may be the only way for dogs to walk after trauma.

Steroids

For meningitis, steroids are the mainstay of treatment. This is a long treatment, usually several months of twice-daily medications. The dose must be very carefully and slowly reduced over time to prevent the dog from relapsing. Fortunately, steroid therapy is usually inexpensive and easy to administer.

Acupuncture 

Acupuncture is becoming recognized as a legitimate, evidence-based treatment, including for back pain in dogs. This type of treatment is not suitable for dogs with acute back pain caused by an injury, but may be more helpful for dogs with chronic and ongoing back problems related to spinal arthritis or a pulled muscle.

How to Help Your Dog’s Back Pain at Home

If your dog is experiencing back pain, there are things you can do at home to help your pup rest, recover, and find relief. 

Weight Loss

A lot of dogs that end up with back pain are overweight. Helping your dog to lose weight is an important part of reducing pressure on their backs. It can be very hard to do, especially if your dog has also been prescribed rest, but is essential for a good recovery. Speak with your veterinarian about a weight loss program for your dog.

CBD Products

While CBD products for pets are relatively new and research is still being done, studies show that cannabidiol can reduce inflammation and pain in dogs caused by arthritis. Start a conversation with your veterinarian about your choices and what to look for in products. 

Joint Supplements

Starting your dog on joint supplements may help to ensure they get the correct nutrients for joint repair. Still, you should discuss this with your vet, as some supplements may interact with other medications your dog is on. 

Rest and Comfort

It’s important that your dog rests. Even if your vet doesn’t prescribe crate rest, exercise caution around things that can cause further injury, such as jumping out of the car or going up and down the stairs. Providing a car ramp, stair ramp, or steps onto the sofa can help them to live their best life while protecting their back.

You should also think about your pet’s bed—an orthopedic mattress can provide needed support. You should also consider finding a suitable harness for your dog that doesn’t put pressure on the affected areas. Your veterinarian can help you with this.

How to Prevent Dog Back Injuries

Of course, preventing back injuries from happening in the first place and optimizing your pet’s back health should be a priority. Pay close attention to the following areas of your dog’s lifestyle to help prevent dog back pain. 

Diet

It’s important to feed your dog a nutritionally balanced, complete diet formulated for their size and lifestage. Home-cooked diets and other diets that are not properly balanced can cause bones and joints to not grow properly, and too much or too little calcium can cause bone problems. This is especially true when dogs are growing.

Weight

With excess weight comes extra pressure on the spine and back. Preventing your dog from becoming overweight and maintaining the ideal weight for their size, age, and breed is essential. Get your dog’s Body Condition Score regularly checked at your veterinary practice to ensure they’re not carrying excess fat.

Exercise

Getting your pet the right amount of exercise can be difficult, but keeping your dog fit is important. Low-intensity exercise such as hydrotherapy is a great way to ensure your dog is in tip-top condition without putting extra pressure through aging or already damaged spinal joints.

Frequently Asked Questions

What can I give my dog for back pain?

The treatment plan for back pain in dogs ultimately depends on its cause. Your veterinarian may prescribe non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), steroids, muscle relaxants, or other medication to treat the pain or underlying condition. Some alternative therapy options like acupuncture or laser therapy are becoming more commonplace to treat certain types of pain, too. Before giving your dog any type of medication or therapy, talk to your vet first.

What is IVDD in dogs?

IVDD, or intervertebral disc disease, is a condition where the jelly-like cushions in between the segments of your dog’s spin bulge and put pressure on the spinal cord. This impingement can cause pain and numbness in your dog. Certain breeds, like Dachshunds, are more predisposed to this condition than others. IVDD is a serious condition that requires evaluation from your veterinarian.

Can back pain cause seizures in dogs?

Back pain is typically caused by diseases affecting the spinal cord, while seizures are caused by abnormalities in the brain. Therefore, back pain cannot cause seizures. In rare cases, a disease can affect both the spinal cord and the brain; in this situation, a dog may have both back pain and seizures. Back pain may also lead to muscle tremors that may be mistaken for seizures. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether your dog is experiencing seizures and/or back pain. 

Can bladder stones cause back pain in dogs?

Bladder stones can lead to signs suggestive of back pain. Just like people, animals can experience “referred pain,” in which pain from one location is felt in another part of the body. Pain from the bladder may be referred to the back, causing affected dogs to act as though they have back pain. You will need a veterinarian’s evaluation to confirm whether bladder stones are causing discomfort in your dog.

The post 6 Causes of Back Pain in Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Cats also suffer from eosinophilic keratitis. While it’s not known exactly what causes eosinophilic keratitis, it’s an unusual condition affecting predominantly cats and occasionally horses. It is rare or unheard of in most other species. 

What is Keratitis?

Keratitis refers to inflammation of the cornea—the surface layer of the eye. This layer is usually transparent, but keratitis can cause the layer to become cloudy, affecting a cat’s vision. 

Cats can suffer from several types of keratitis, depending on the cause of inflammation. These types include:

• Ulcerative keratitis
• Non-ulcerative keratitis
• Eosinophilic keratitis
  

Keratitis is sometimes seen alongside conjunctivitis, which means inflammation of the conjunctiva—the inner surface of the eyelids. However, cats can get keratitis without conjunctivitis and vice-versa.

Types of Keratitis in Cats

Keratitis can be ulcerative or non-ulcerative depending whether the inflammation is related to eye damage. 

Ulcerative keratitis refers to inflammation in the eye caused by an ulcer—a scratch, dent, or other damage to the surface of a cat’s eye. This type of keratitis is painful and causes squinting, increased tear production, and rubbing at the affected eye as well as the cloudiness often seen with keratitis.

Non-ulcerative keratitis means that there’s no trauma to the surface layers of the eye, so the inflammation is caused by something else, such as dry eye syndrome, a viral attack, glaucoma, or eye infections. 

Eosinophilic keratitis is a type of non-ulcerative keratitis. In eosinophilic keratitis, the eye is invaded by a type of immune cell called an eosinophil, usually involved in allergy response. We don’t yet know what prompts this invasion, although one study found that 75 percent of cats with eosinophilic keratitis also had feline herpesvirus, suggesting that feline herpesvirus may have some responsibility for this condition (1). 

It’s important to note that all types of non-ulcerative keratitis can become ulcerative at any time if damage becomes sufficient that a hole appears in the eye. For instance, dry eye or keratoconjunctivitis sicca usually starts as non-ulcerative keratitis, but over time, without treatment, will often become ulcerative. 

Sometimes the signs of non-ulcerative keratitis, being more subtle, mean the disease is not noticed until it becomes ulcerative. These symptoms are often mistaken for conjunctivitis or a feline eye infection by pet parents, but in reality bacterial infections are rarely to blame.

Symptoms of Keratitis in Cats

Cats that are suffering from keratitis usually have visual changes to the surface of the eye. It can happen to one eye only (unilateral) or both eyes (bilateral). The eye may become cloudy or discoloured, and pet parents may also notice blood vessels growing across the surface of the eye. 

If there is an ulcer, cats will usually show signs of pain such as blinking, tearing, or squinting. They may also groom their eyes excessively or use furniture or the carpet to rub their eyes. 

Other signs of keratitis in cats include:

• Rubbing at the eyes or face
• Tear staining
• Squinting and excessive blinking, especially in response to light
• Excessive tears or discharge
• New blood vessels in the eye
• White-grey film/cloudiness over the eye
• Swollen eyelids
• Lethargy
• Inappetence
• Constricted pupils

Causes of Keratitis in Cats

Ulcerative keratitis is usually caused by trauma to the cat’s eye. This affects all cats, although it is slightly more common in cats with shorter noses and bulbous eyes such as Persians, Burmese, and Himalayans.

Although traumatic ulcers can occur in cats of any age, as they get older it slowly becomes less likely that trauma is to blame and more likely that there’s something else going on, such as a form of undiagnosed non-ulcerative keratitis that has become ulcerative. 

Non-ulcerative keratitis can have many causes. Viral infection, especially with feline herpesvirus, has commonly been associated with keratitis in cats. Herpesvirus infection occurs in all cat breeds but is more common in cats born to unvaccinated mothers and those living in large groups. 

Eosinophilic keratitis in cats has also been observed in all breeds. However, it appears to be slightly more common in neutered male cats and cats under the age of four years old.

Diagnosing Cats With Keratitis

In order for your veterinarian to diagnose your cat with keratitis, he or she will need to perform a physical exam. They will usually perform a general physical examination, then conduct a further examination of your cat’s eyes.

Your veterinarian will look closely at your cat’s cornea under natural light, and in the dark using a torch. They may need to apply a dye called fluorescein to the eye. This orange dye turns green in contact with the surface of your cat’s eye. In a normal, healthy eye the dye will slide right off and pool in the corner of the eye, then drain to the nostril. If the cat has an ulcer, the dye gets caught in the ulcer, highlighting the extent, depth and size of the damage. Eosinophilic plaques also take up dye.

If your veterinarian suspects a simple corneal ulcer to be the cause of the keratitis, it’s possible that examinations will stop here. However, for cats with recurrent ulcers, or for those with non-ulcerative keratitis, further examination will usually be necessary. 

Tear-production tests may be undertaken by putting strips of absorbent paper into the eye and watching to see how much the eye waters. Veterinarians may also scrape at the surface of the eye to have a look at the cells under the microscope. This will help to distinguish eosinophilic keratitis from other forms of keratitis. Throat or eye swabs can also help to diagnose herpesvirus infection.

While many of these tests can be performed by your usual veterinarian, it’s important to understand that your vet needs to work within the grounds of their confidence. If at any point they don’t have the necessary equipment, if they’re unsure about the next steps, or feel that the case is too complicated for them to work up, they may recommend you to a veterinary ophthalmologist or feline specialist.

Cat Keratitis Treatment

Treating keratitis in cats usually requires topical medications in the form of eye drops, although in some long-standing and complex cases, surgery may be required. 

In ulcerative keratitis, the key is to protect the eye while the ulcer heals. An Elizabethan collar or plastic collar is used to prevent further injury, and antibiotic drops are usually given to prevent infection of the ulcer. Cat eye lubrication and pain relief may also be given to comfort the cat while an ulcer heals. 

In severe cases of feline keratitis, surgery can be used to remove damaged portions of the cornea or to repair the damage. Contact lenses may also be used to provide a bandage for the eye.

If the keratitis is non-ulcerative, several medications and rounds of treatment may be necessary. Medicated eye drops containing steroids or other immune-suppressants may help to reverse the invasion of eosinophils in eosinophilic keratitis. Cat eye drops containing antivirals may also be useful if the cause is suspected to be viral. Oral antivirals and injectable steroids may be required in severe cases, or for cats who refuse topical treatment.

Medications to Treat Keratitis in Cats

The type of medication recommended by your veterinarian will depend on the suspected cause of keratitis. Medications include:

Topical Antibiotics: These include eye drops or eye ointments that need to be applied every 4-12 hours depending on the active ingredient and the formulation. They keep bacteria at bay while your cat’s eye heals.

Topical Steroids: Topical steroids work as anti-inflammatories and, depending on the dose and formulation, they also suppress the immune system. This can be useful in treating eosinophilic keratitis and other immune-related eye conditions. They have fewer side effects than oral or injectable steroids.

Topical Antivirals: Eye drops containing antivirals may be used where herpesvirus is thought to be the cause of the keratitis, or where eosinophilic keratitis is severe.

Oral or Injectable Steroids: Sometimes used when topical steroids are not appropriate or available. They usually come in tablet form if oral.

Oral Antivirals: L-lyseine is a natural supplement sometimes recommended to increase the body’s ability to control and kill viruses. It is found in liquid, powder, and tablet form. 

General Cost to Treat Keratitis in Cats 

A simple case of ulcerative keratitis in a young cat with no other concerns is likely to cost in the region of $100-$200. Your cat will need—at a minimum—a clinical exam, fluorescein test, and pain relief and antibiotic drops. Costs for exams, tests, and drugs can vary.

For a complicated case of eosinophilic keratitis requiring referral, swabs, and several types of medicated drops, costs are more likely to be in the region of $750-$1,000.  

How to Prevent Keratitis in Cats

Since there are so many causes of keratitis, some of which are unknown, it can be difficult to prevent. However, choosing kittens with a reliable vaccination history and ensuring that they remain up-to-date on vaccines can make it less likely that they suffer from herpesvirus, making non-ulcerative keratitis less likely.

Since ulcerative keratitis is more common in flat-faced breeds and young animals, keeping flat-faced cats indoors when they’re very young may help to prevent ulcerative keratitis. 

However, there are other causes of keratitis in cats that cannot be prevented, and recognizing the signs and promptly following treatment directions can help your cat heal and feel better. 

Related Conditions

• Corneal Ulcers
• Feline Herpesvirus

The post Keratitis in Cats appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Here’s everything you need to know about dog burping and when it’s really a cause for concern.

Do Dogs Burp?

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Dogs burp like humans do, and they do this to let excess air out of their stomachs. When swallowed, this excess air usually reaches the stomach. Dogs that eat too fast may burp to release any air that has been accidentally swallowed.  

It’s more common for brachycephalic dogs, also known as flat-faced breeds, to burp. Breeds such as Boxers, Pugs, and Bulldogs burp often, as their snout length makes them more likely to swallow air. 

Other causes of burping in dogs exist, such as gastrointestinal upset, but this is less common.

What Does it Mean When a Dog Burps?

Dogs can burp for several reasons, either due to certain behaviors or underlying illnesses. Knowing why your dog is burping can help you learn if their excess gas is harmful or innocuous. Here are the most common reasons why dogs burp.

Behavioral-related causes of dog burping

Dogs that have swallowed air will burp to remove it from their stomach. Dogs can swallow air when they eat too quickly. This usually happens if they’re hungry, greedy, or worried other pets in the house may steal their food. Dogs of certain breeds are more prone to this sort of burping. Labradors, for instance, are very prone to gulping their food down. If your dog burps after eating, it’s probably normal.

Diet can sometimes be to blame for dog burping. Dogs with an alkaline diet produce gas when their food meets the stomach acid, resulting in increased burping. Kibbles of certain shapes may increase burping if your dog swallows more air when eating food. For instance, doughnut-shaped kibble will increase air ingestion. Burping is also likely with a poor quality diet, or if the diet doesn’t agree with your dog’s GI system. 

Deficiencies in your dog’s diet and GI system are sometimes the culprit of burping, as well. Dogs that lack the right digestive enzymes sometimes experience gas in the form of burps or farts. If your dog needs extra support to combat these symptoms, your vet may recommend a special kind of diet or medication.

Dogs that have a tendency to dig through the trash or garbage can may also experience gastrointestinal upset and burping. Trash digging dogs can experience burping, vomiting, diarrhea, and even pancreatitis. If you notice your dog burping suspect they’ve been through the trash, keep a close eye out for other, more serious symptoms.

Dog burping caused by illnesses

Some illnesses can also cause dog burping. Gastric-dilation-volvulus (GDV), often called bloat, is a life-threatening condition caused by excess air in the stomach that’s unable to escape. Excessive burping and non-productive vomiting are early signs of GDV. GDV is more common in deep-chested dogs and dogs that eat too quickly, too much, or exercise too soon after a meal.  Sometimes, intestinal parasites can cause excessive burping in dogs, too. Some parasites produce more air in your dog’s stomach, which escapes through your dog’s mouth as a burp.

Less serious illnesses can cause dog burping too. Any imbalance or upset in the gastrointestinal tract like inflammatory bowel disease can cause burping. These burps can smell especially bad! In burps produced in the GI tract, air is being produced in the stomach and the first part of the gut. That air rises and escapes as a burp. These burps can smell like rotten eggs, a previous meal, or even like fish.

Dog burping that smells like rotten eggs, also known as sulfur burps, are more common with some medications or after a protein-heavy meal. Dogs fed raw food are more likely to have sulfur burps, as sulfur is produced as part of the digestion of protein. Fishy burps usually mean your dog has bad teeth or has been licking their anal glands. 

Dog Burping: When to Be Concerned 

If your dog burps once or twice after each meal, it’s probably nothing to worry about. You could always try to improve matters by slowing your dog’s eating using a treat ball feeder or a food bowl specially designed to stop dogs from eating too fast. Eating more slowly not only reduces burps; it also helps to provide mental stimulation and increases satiety (the feeling of being full).

Here are some scenarios when your dog’s burping may point to something more serious.

When dog burping is sudden and frequent

If you notice one or two burps and your dog is otherwise well, it’s not an emergency. But it could be a sign of gastrointestinal problems to come. Watch your dog closely for other issues such as vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain. If your dog continues to burp after each meal and seems gassy, the diet might be to blame. If it continues to be a problem, your veterinarian can help you to investigate. 

When dog burping leads to vomiting

If your dog burps excessively and vomits, call your veterinarian for advice as soon as possible as it may indicate a case of bloat . Other serious signs include lethargy, abdominal pain, pale gums and a fast breathing rate, all which could signal an emergency. Call your veterinarian if you notice any of these signs. 

When your dog’s breath smells particularly bad

Bad breath might warrant a non-urgent visit to the vet. They can help you to investigate potential GI problems and discuss the diet that your dog is on. If your dog’s burp smells like rotten eggs after starting a new medication, it’s usually nothing to worry about.

It can be scary to sit in a veterinary office or emergency room and wonder what’s happening to your dog. Depending on what tests your veterinarian performs, costs can quickly escalate. Having a pet health insurance policy, such as one from Lemonade, can act as your second best friend in a time of need to help defray costs.

FAQs

Why does my dog’s burp smell like sulfur?

Dog burps can smell like sulfur or rotten eggs for several reasons. Foul smelling burps are usually the product of excess gas building up inside the GI tract, rather than swallowed air escaping. The most common culprits of dog burps that smell like sulfur are new medications, protein-heavy meals, and inflammatory bowel disease.

Do dogs burp to show affection?

Many dog owners share the experience of getting burped in the face by their canine companion. While there’s no scientific evidence to suggest it’s your dog’s way of showing affection, burping in front of you also isn’t a sign of your dog being rude either. Dog burping is common, and sometimes humans just happen to be in the line of fire!

Is it bad if my dog burps a lot?

Dog burping is usually a harmless symptom of eating too fast and swallowing air. But if you notice your dog burping much more than usual, it may be a sign of a more concerning issue such as bloat, food allergies, or a gastrointestinal condition. Contact your vet immediately if your dog’s excessive burping does not stop, or is accompanied by other symptoms such as vomiting, lethargy, or diarrhea.

The post Dog Burping: What’s Normal and What’s Not appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Knowing when your dog is considered a senior is an important part of pet parenting. It means you can be alert for changes in their behavior or habits that might be signs of illness and you can take steps to keep your dog happy and comfortable well into their golden years.

When Is a Dog a Senior?

There is no set age or date when a dog goes from being an adult to being a senior. In fact, it varies greatly depending on your dog’s breed and size. Many people average the age at which dogs become seniors at around 7 years old, but in reality this can change quite considerably from ages 5 to 12. 

Most dogs are puppies until they are around 6 months to 1 year old. Next is the adult life stage. For some dogs, this lasts until 5 or 6 years old, at which point the signs of old age that herald the senior life stage begin. Other dogs will reach 12 years old before they start to age dramatically. 

In general, we expect that the ‘senior’ life stage is the last quarter to a third of a dog’s expected life span. 

When Is a Small Dog Considered a Senior?

Small dogs—those smaller than about 20 pounds—get to their adult age more quickly than large breeds, often being fully grown by six or eight months of age. After this, though, they age more slowly. 

The lifespan of a small-breed dog is, on average, longer than that of a large breed dog—up to about 16 years. Which means that a healthy, small dog might not be considered senior until they are 12 years old. 

However, there are some exceptions to the rule. Some small breeds, such as Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, have a shorter lifespan and are considered senior at a younger age—around 8 years old. 

When Is a Large Dog Considered a Senior?

Larger breeds of dogs tend to have shorter life spans. This means they reach senior age more quickly than smaller breeds. 

Labradors are a good average large breed—with a life expectancy of about 12 years, we would expect them to become senior at 8-9 years of age. Giant breeds such as Leonbergers have an average life expectancy of about 7 years. They are considered seniors when they turn 5 years old.

Elderly, Senior, and Geriatric Dogs: Is There a Difference?

If a dog is senior in the last third to quarter of their lifespan, what do the phrases “elderly” and “geriatric” have to do with it? Well, geriatric is sometimes used interchangeably with the term senior, but for veterinarians this tends to mean the very final stages of an elderly dog’s life. 

So, for a Leonberger with a lifespan of seven years, they are senior at five, and geriatric at six and a half. For a Toy Poodle with an average lifespan of over 13 years, the last year and a half could be considered geriatric.

The phrase “elderly” isn’t a term that vets use very often. Elderly could mean a senior or geriatric dog, but usually refers to one that has some signs of age. In other words, it’s not a life stage—it’s just a description. 

A dog can be a senior but still be very sprightly and therefore isn’t elderly at all. But a dog that has age-related arthritis, is grey around the muzzle, has some behavioral changes associated with age and is missing a few teeth would likely be described as elderly.

Signs Your Dog Is a Senior

Of course, saying that your dog is senior when they reach the final quarter of their expected life is a little confusing. After all, if you have a rescue you might not know their age, and if you have a mixed breed it might be hard to guess at their life expectancy. 

But you may notice signs of aging in your dog as they reach their senior years. Signs that your dog may be approaching the senior stage include:

• Going gray around the muzzle 
• Stiffness, especially in the mornings (a sign of arthritis, and one that should not go ignored)
• General slowing down
• Impatience, especially with younger dogs

Lastly, you might notice signs of canine cognitive dysfunction. Signs of cognitive dysfunction in senior dogs include anxiety, interrupted sleeping patterns, unusual evening/night-time activity, and a loss of smell.

Keeping Senior Dogs Comfortable as They Age

As your senior dog ages, they’re prone to many more diseases and conditions. It’s therefore important to keep a close eye on their health and behavior, as well as make some changes to help to keep them more comfortable.

Your veterinarian might recommend “senior bloodwork” as your dog enters their senior years. This is a helpful tool in determining changes in your pet’s health status. Doing bloodwork while they are seemingly healthy can provide a baseline for their health status and help your veterinarian recognize changes more quickly in the future. It can also help with early detection of diseases, such as kidney and liver problems, which may not show signs or symptoms until they are progressed.

Remember that arthritis is a disease, not a normal part of aging. It can be exceedingly painful and impact a pup’s quality of life. If you suspect your dog has arthritis, you should take them to your veterinarian for an assessment, and start pain medications if necessary. 

If you’re looking for natural pain-relief remedies, talk to your veterinarian about joint supplements or pet-formulated hemp-oil products. While more research about hemp oil and its benefits for pets is still needed, a study from Colorado State University showed that hemp oil had a positive impact on aging dogs with arthritis. 

There are also things you can do at home to help your aging pup. Older and arthritic dogs often struggle with jumping up and down, so consider a ramp or stairs onto the sofa, bed, or into the car. Providing a very comfortable memory foam mattress on the floor is also a good way to keep their joints cared for. Slippery floors may also be a problem for senior dogs—consider adding non-slip matts to wooden floors to help them get traction. 

You might also want to adjust your senior dog’s walks to the length and energy level that they are comfortable with. Sometimes, more walks (4-5 times per day) for a shorter period (about 10 minutes or so) are better than one lengthy walk per day. Remember that if your dog is getting shorter or less energetic walks, you should talk to your veterinarian about whether you need to reduce your dog’s calorie intake.  

Your senior dog’s brain is important, too. Keeping your dog’s brain fit may help to slow the onset of canine cognitive dysfunction. Try teaching your senior dog a new trick, or remind them of some of the old ones they used to know. If your dog is getting reduced exercise due to arthritis, consider making sure the exercise they do get is more mentally stimulating than usual and try giving your dog joint supplements before walks or play time.

Your dog’s appetite and energy levels should also be monitored for signs of problems—as changes in eating or behavior could signal a health problem.

Dogs can live health and happy lives for several years as seniors, so it’s important to keep your dog comfortable, engaged, and loved well into their golden years.

The post When Is a Dog Considered Senior? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Benazepril is a type of drug called an ACE inhibitor. Along with similar drugs such as enalapril and imidapril, it works by causing blood vessels to relax or “dilate,” which reduces blood pressure. 

Benazepril is the generic name of the drug—it is also known as benazepril hydrochloride. There are lots of brand names for benazepril. These are often more expensive than the generic benazepril.

What Is Benazepril?

Benazepril is a commonly used medication in both pet and human medicine, but it is not approved for use in animals by the FDA. This means its use in dogs is considered “off label.” 

Despite this, it is used as a prescription-only medication to manage the symptoms associated with heart failure, chronic renal failure, and high blood pressure (hypertension) in dogs. While your usual vet can prescribe this medication, it’s also prescribed by cardiology specialists and internal medicine specialists. 

What Does Benazepril Look Like?

Benazepril usually comes as tablets in various dosages. Depending on the manufacturer, the tablet can be any color and may be scored or unscored. 

Benazepril may also come in a combination with other drugs, such as in the brand name Fortekor Plus, where benazepril and pimobendan are both in the tablet; or Cardalis, where benazepril and spironolactone are combined together. 

This can be useful if both drugs are required as they’re easier to give, but it can also be difficult to adjust the doses of the drugs if necessary.

How Does Benazepril Work?

Benazepril is an ACE inhibitor. This means it blocks Angiotensin Converting Enzyme (ACE). This enzyme normally converts Angiotensin I into Angiotensin II, a chemical messenger that causes blood vessels to narrow. By blocking the action of this enzyme, the Angiotensin I is not converted, meaning there is no Angiotensin II and blood vessels remain open or “dilated.” 

Just like water through a pipe, if you force the water through a smaller tube the pressure is higher, so by encouraging the vessels to dilate you allow the blood to flow more easily and the blood pressure is lower. 

Benazepril is therefore useful for several diseases that cause high blood pressure in dogs or where high blood pressure would be particularly damaging.

What Does Benazepril Treat in Dogs?

Benazepril is usually prescribed to treat congestive heart failure (CHF), which forms in dogs that are suffering from conditions affecting the heart such as mitral valve degeneration. This is the most common usage of benazepril, and it has been shown to increase survival times of dogs showing symptoms of congestive heart failure. 

Benazepril may also be used in dogs to treat:

• Mitral valve disease
• Dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM)
• Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy
• Chronic renal failure
• High blood pressure (hypertension)

Benazepril Side Effects in Dogs

Benazepril for dogs has a good safety profile, with few pet parents reporting side effects. In clinical trials, symptoms that could be interpreted as benazepril side effects occurred less often in the group of dogs taking benazepril than they did in the comparison placebo group. 

The most commonly reported side effect of benazepril is signs of gut disturbance, such as vomiting, diarrhea or a loss in appetite. Some incoordination also occured in clinical trials, although very rarely.

Other side effects of benazepril in dogs include:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Inappetence
• Incoordination
• Syncope (fainting)
• Weakness
• Skin rash
• Fever
• Increased urea (a colorless, crystalline compound) in blood
• Increased potassium in blood

All of these side effects are considered to be rare, mild, short-lasting, and reversible. If you notice any side effects, regardless of whether they are listed here, you should call your veterinary clinic for information and advice.

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

You should tell your veterinarian if your dog is taking any drugs, including vitamins, supplements, or herbal therapies, so that they can determine if benazepril interactions are likely.

While benazepril is generally a safe drug for your pet, and can be taken with most other heart drugs, careful monitoring is required. If other diuretics such as spironolactone are also used, spikes in blood potassium caused by both drugs working together can occur.

Benazepril should not be used at the same time as other ACE inhibitors, and care should be taken if it is to be used at the same time with drugs that lower blood pressure, as dogs can become dizzy or uncoordinated. 

Pet parents should also be cautious about using non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) such as meloxicam and carprofen if dogs are also on ACE inhibitors such as benazepril.

Benazepril Dosages for Dogs

The dosage of benazepril isn’t always prescribed entirely on your dog’s weight. It’s up to the veterinarian and the pet parent to find out the best dosage for each individual dog. This is achieved by starting at the lower end of the dose range and regularly discussing side effects, checking blood samples, and adjusting the dose until the dosage with the best effect and the fewest side effects has been found. 

For this reason, you should always follow your veterinarian’s instructions and confirm the benazepril dosage each time you order more medication. 

Benazepril is generally given once daily, with an empty stomach or with food. If your dog vomits if you give benazepril on an empty stomach, you should try giving it with food.

What If My Dog Misses a Dose of Benazepril?

If your dog misses a dose of benazepril, you should give your dog the missed dose as soon as you remember. The next dose should be given 24 hours later. Do not give two tablets together to make up for the missed dose.

Cost of Benazepril for Dogs

The cost of benazepril for dogs varies greatly according to location, drug dosage, drug brand and veterinary practice. The average cost is approximately $0.50-$1 for one tablet, and there may be prescription and dispensing fees on top of that. 

Where the drug is prohibitively expensive, you can request that your veterinarian writes you a prescription for you to take to a human pharmacy.

Benazepril Storage Instructions

Benazepril should be stored at room temperature (no more than 85 degrees), in the dark, and inside the packaging until use. Tablets that are removed from the packaging or halved should be kept dry and given to your dog within 48 hours.

The post Benazepril for Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Any condition that causes cats to avoid eating can be dangerous. Let’s review the signs and symptoms of stomatitis in cats and what you can do to help your feline feel better.

What is Stomatitis?

Stomatitis, also known as Feline Chronic Gingivostomatitis (FCGS), is a condition where the inside of a cat’s mouth becomes severely inflamed. Unlike gingivitis, which usually affects the gums near diseased teeth, stomatitis affects all of the soft tissues in the mouth including the gums, the back of the throat, the tongue, and even the roof of the mouth.

It’s one of the more unusual cat mouth problems that veterinarians come across, but still affects a significant proportion of cats. The inflammation is painful, and it may lead to a cat not eating due to the intense discomfort.

Is Stomatitis in Cats Deadly?

Stomatitis in cats is rarely fatal. But it is serious and causes problems when not treated due to the pain associated with the disease and the resulting inappetence that arises when cats find their mouth too painful to eat.

It’s theoretically possible that cats could eventually die from not eating, but the vast majority of cats get treatment before the problem becomes this serious.

What Causes Stomatitis in Cats?

Veterinarians do not know the exact cause of stomatitis in cats. There are, however, several things that can make a cat more likely to suffer with it. The most common theory is that cats have an over-reactive immune response to something, and it is this immune reaction that causes the ulcers and inflammation in the mouth.

We do know that infection with Feline Calicivirus makes a cat more likely to get stomatitis. Infection with Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) or Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) may also make a cat more likely to suffer with stomatitis, but the relationship is much less clear than with calicivirus.

It also seems that cats in multi-cat households or outdoor cats that live in colonies may be more predisposed to suffering from stomatitis, but it is not clear if this is because of chronic, low levels of stress, or because these cats are more likely to have and carry viruses.

Although cats often get flare-ups in their mouths as kittens, especially during tooth eruption, most cases of stomatitis occur in cats older than one year old.

Oral hygiene definitely comes into play with cats suffering from stomatitis. Many of these cats seem to have an excessive immune response to the bacterial plaque on their teeth, and reducing the amount of bacterial plaque can make vast improvements to the inflammation in their mouths. In addition, any dental disease that could be increasing inflammation and pain will make it worse, so dental problems in general can complicate stomatitis in cats.

In short, cats are more likely to suffer from stomatitis if they:

• Live in a house with more than one cat
• Are over 1 year old
• Carry calicivirus, FeLV or FIV
• Have dental disease

Symptoms of Feline Stomatitis

Since cats rarely let us look inside their mouths, the first symptom of feline stomatitis is often drooling or pawing at the mouth—which are signs of mouth inflammation and pain. Pet parents often also report a change in the cats eating preferences. Some will start avoiding hard food, some will avoid food altogether. Some may go over to the bowl, take one bite, and walk away.

Sometimes, cats show very few signs of pain, and cat mouth sores are only picked up on a regular physical examination, at a booster vaccination or as part of a routine dental cleaning, when the severe inflammation and ulcers are seen. Cats can put up with a lot of pain without showing symptoms.

It’s rare to see your cat bleeding from the mouth, but severe stomatitis in cats may cause slightly bloody saliva, and if your cat is drooling more than usual you may notice this as patches of blood left behind on bedding, toys, or food bowls.

Other symptoms of stomatitis in cats include:

• Inappetence, or eating only part of a meal
• A reluctance to eat kibble
• Drooling
• Weight loss
• Halitosis (bad breath)
• Poor fur coat due to not grooming
• Pawing at the mouth
• Painful and swollen lymph nodes in the neck

Diagnosing Stomatitis in Cats

If your veterinarian suspects your cat has stomatitis, they will want to do a full physical exam. A veterinarian will need to look inside your cat’s mouth, examine their head and neck, and check over the rest of them to make sure there is nothing else amiss, especially as these cases often present with vague signs.

Stomatitis diagnosis is often made presumptively on the basis of lesions in the mouth and compatible symptoms, but it’s important to look at the teeth to rule out other dental issues.

Sometimes, biopsies of the mouth—taken under general anesthetic—may be necessary to confirm that the lesions are stomatitis and not cancerous. Vets will also want to investigate underlying causes of the stomatitis, such as viral disease.

In addition to a physical exam, most vets will do the following tests:

Blood tests: These tests screen for other conditions and make sure medicines are safe to use. Blood tests also help veterinarians detect FIV or FeLV.

Mouth swabs: A veterinarian may conduct a mouth swab to test for feline calicivirus. They may also take a bacterial swab of the mouth.

Dental imaging: This includes X-rays of a cat’s mouth, gums, and teeth, which will be done while a cat is under anesthesia.

Mouth biopsy: If your cat is placed under a general anesthetic, a veterinarian may choose to conduct a biopsy to test for cancer.

How to Treat Cat Stomatitis

Treating cat stomatitis can be frustrating, and some cats will never fully recover. However, many cats will have some improvement with some simple solutions. Once your vet has diagnosed your cat with stomatitis, treatment usually starts with these simple solutions and works up to more complex treatment processes.

The first step is usually to perform a full dental cleaning and remove any diseased teeth. Once your cat’s mouth is clean, home care with a suitable product is the next step. Your vet will recommend a chlorhexidine-based antiseptic paste that will need to be brushed or wiped onto your cat’s gums and teeth twice daily for life. In some cases, this, along with a full dental cleaning a few times a year, is all that is required to treat stomatitis in cats.

Tooth Extraction for Stomatitis

Unfortunately, some cats are not so lucky. If your veterinarian is not satisfied with your pet’s response to a routine cleaning, they may recommend extraction of all the cheek teeth. This means your cat will keep all the teeth at the font, including the canines, but will lose everything else. This seems like a drastic step to a lot of owners, but nearly 90 percent of cats will improve with this step, with 50 percent being cured and not needing long-term medication.

Rest assured, cats will still eat with their teeth missing—in fact most cats will eat far better once their mouths have settled back down again and they are more comfortable. Depending on the state of your cat’s teeth and the experience of your veterinarian, they may recommend you visit a veterinary dentist for removal of the teeth, as this surgery can be long and complicated.

Medications to Treat Stomatitis in Cats

Lots of medications have been suggested to treat stomatitis in cats, but many of them are a bit hit-and-miss as to whether they work or not.

The most promising is Feline Recombinant Interferon Omega (usually just called ‘interferon’) which helps the body to fight viruses like feline calicivirus. Interferon is an antiviral medication given by injection or a liquid directly into the mouth.

Other possible medications used to treat and manage stomatitis in cats include:

Corticosteroids: Steroids work as an anti-inflammatory. They are usually given in pill form. They have significant side effects and veterinarians try to use the lowest effective dose for the shortest time possible to control the condition.

NSAIDs (Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs): These are either oral liquids or pills given to reduce inflammation in the mouth. They are good pain relief, but shouldn’t be used long-term unless there is no other option.

Cyclosporine: This medication can be used in cases that do not resolve with other treatment options, such as extraction. It is usually given in oral liquid form.

General Cost to Treat Stomatitis in Cats

The cost of treating stomatitis in cats is variable, as it depends on the individual cat’s response to treatment. On average, simple cases treated without referral to a specialist may cost around $800 each year for repeated dental operations. More complex cases may cost more, up to $1,500 per year.

How to Prevent Stomatitis in Cats

Since it isn’t clear what causes stomatitis in cats, there’s no proven way to prevent it. Good dental hygiene from kittenhood is probably the most effective prevention method.

In addition, keeping your cat up to date with their vaccinations will reduce the chance of them getting feline calicivirus or feline leukemia virus. Reducing cat fights by neutering your pet, and therefore the chance of your pet catching FeLV or FIV, is a good idea, too.

Related Conditions

• Feline Calicivirus
• Feline Leukemia Virus
• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus

The post Stomatitis in Cats appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Here’s everything you need to know about histiocytomas in dogs, from causes and symptoms to diagnosis and treatment.

What is a Histiocytoma?

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Histiocytoma in dogs is a type of skin tumor. You may hear it referred to as a cutaneous histiocytoma, too. It’s a relatively benign skin tumor that affects young dogs (usually less than 4 years old). It can sometimes be confused for other types of lumps on dogs.

Histiocytomas appear on the surface of the skin as a pink-red, hairless lump. They’re round and solitary—that is, there are no other nearby lumps. They usually appear on the head or ears, although it’s possible for them to appear anywhere on the body. Histiocytomas can appear on your dog’s leg, your dog’s lip, or your dog’s nose. Histiocytomas on the ear flaps are the most common form.

On the whole, histiocytomas in dogs don’t need treatment, but histiocytomas on dog paws can be irritating, and they sometimes need surgical removal.

Types of Dog Histiocytomas

There are a few different types of dog histiocytomas. While the benign cutaneous histiocytoma is the most common type by far, there are some more serious types of histiocytomas and some other conditions that are related to histiocytes, a type of immune cell that lives in the skin. These include:

Ulcerated histiocytoma: Like any skin lump, histiocytomas can ulcerate. Ulcerated histiocytomas often need surgical removal to prevent infection.

Malignant histiocytoma: In very rare, exceptional cases, histiocytomas can become malignant and metastasize to a local lymph node.

Localized histiocytic sarcoma: A rare condition that causes swelling in the limbs and lameness. It most often affects Bernese Mountain Dogs, Golden Retrievers, Flat-Coated Retrievers, and Rottweilers.

Disseminated histiocytic sarcoma (malignant histiocytosis): A rare but severe condition that usually affects Bernese Mountain Dogs. It affects all of the organs and causes lethargy, weight loss, and appetite loss. It is extremely serious and often fatal, but shouldn’t be confused with the normal histiocytoma as experienced by the vast majority of dogs.

Malignant fibrous histiocytoma (MFH): A type of soft tissue sarcoma (tumor) that affects Flat-Coated Retrievers, Rottweilers, and Golden Retrievers more than other breeds. It’s usually found as a lump under the skin and on testing is found to be a malignant fibrous histiocytoma. They are locally invasive and can metastasize, so surgical removal is recommended. However, the World Health Organization no longer considers MFH to be a separate disease and it looks like these tumors in dogs are also being reclassified now that we have better diagnostic techniques available.

What Causes Histiocytoma in Dogs?

Histiocytomas appear when histiocytes grow rapidly and produce more histiocytes, causing a lump to form. While some have suggested hat ticks, viruses, or infections spark the immune system to do this, no cause for histiocytomas has been found. Histiocytomas also cannot spread between dogs.

Any breed or crossbreed can get histiocytomas, but it appears that Boxers and Dachshunds are more prone to getting histiocytomas, and that they’re more common in purebred dogs in general.

Histiocytoma in Dogs: Symptoms

The most common symptom of a histiocytoma is a small, single round lump that’s typically less than half an inch in diameter. It’s usually pink-red, raised, and hairless, like a red mole on a dog. The most common place for these lumps is the face and ears, although they can be anywhere. They are rarely painful but sometimes irritating, especially when they’re on the feet. Histiocytomas are sometimes called button tumors on dogs, as well.

Other symptoms of histiocytomas in dogs may include:

• Licking and biting at the lump (if irritating)
• Limping (if the lump is between toes or on base of foot)

Diagnosing Canine Histiocytomas

What should you do if you find a pink bump on your dog? If you suspect your dog has a histiocytoma, it’s important to visit the veterinarian. Although histiocytomas are almost always benign, they look very similar to a more serious skin cancer called a mast cell tumor, so it’s important for vets to take a look to help to distinguish the two.

Your veterinarian will look closely at the lump and feel it to see whether it’s painful or bothers the dog, as well as checking over your dog generally. They will likely recommend further testing to help to differentiate the histiocytoma from a mast cell tumor.

Finding a lump or bump on your dog can be very worrisome. And the last thing pet parents need is more worries about how to pay for testing or potential treatments. That’s where a pet health insurance plan from Spot Pet Insurance can help ease your mind. Depending on your policy, everything from the cost of office visits to testing, treatment, and surgery could be fully or partially covered

Save Money with Spot Pet Insurance

Spot Pet Insurance

• Affordable, customizable options.
• 30-day money-back guarantee.
• Coverage for alternative therapies such as acupuncture.

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Biopsy of diagnosing a histiocytoma

One easy way to get a diagnosis is by taking a needle biopsy, also called a fine needle aspirate. This involves sticking a needle into the lump and wiggling it around to get some cells for analysis. In many dogs, sedation isn’t necessary for this procedure. Your veterinarian or a lab specialist will assess the appearance of the cells and the type of cell—a lot of histiocytes usually means a histiocytoma, while a lot of mast cells would indicate a mast cell tumor. This method of biopsy doesn’t always provide an answer. Sometimes there aren’t enough cells, they’re too close together on the slides, or they are too damaged to provide a clear answer. 

Another option is an excisional biopsy. This involves surgically removing the lump and sending it off to a laboratory for analysis. They will slice the lump into very thin sections for viewing under a microscope (called histology). This method generally costs more, and your dog would need an anesthetic, but it can be useful in some situations. There are no mistakes with histology, as the whole lump is available for viewing, so your veterinarian should definitely get an answer.

How to Treat Histiocytoma in Dogs

Histiocytoma in dogs usually spontaneously regress, meaning they go away on their own and do not need treating. However, treatment is sometimes necessary. Ulcerated histiocytomas can quickly become infected, and antibiotics may be needed. Additionally, histiocytomas that become problematic due to their location often require surgical removal despite being benign.

Medications for Dog Histiocytomas

Most histiocytomas will clear up on their own, but sometimes medications may be necessary. Your dog may need antibiotics for an infected histiocytoma. Your vet may also prescribe cleaning solutions containing chlorhexidine or iodine for ulcerated histiocytomas in order to help prevent infection.

Home Treatments for Histiocytomas

Since histiocytomas usually go away of their own accord after a month or two, they rarely need any home treatment. Remember, you should first consult your veterinarian, as it’s easy to confuse these benign tumors with more dangerous types.

Once you receive a histiocytoma diagnosis using cytology, you can give your dog some simple home care while waiting for the tumor to regress. Keeping the tumor clean with salt-water bathing may help to reduce the risk of infection. You should also prevent your dog from licking at, biting, or interfering with the lump in any way, as this will make surgery more likely to be necessary.

General Cost of Treatment for a Dog Histiocytoma

For a simple histiocytoma case, your dog will need an exam and cytology. This usually costs in the region of $100-$200.

For a more complex case, for instance if the histiocytoma ulcerates or becomes infected, surgery is likely to be necessary. This is likely to cost in the region of $200-$600.

How to Prevent Histiocytoma in Dogs

As the exact cause of histiocytomas is unknown, there is no known way to prevent them.

Related Conditions

• Mast cell tumor
• Plasma cell tumor
• Localized histiocytic sarcoma
• Disseminated histiocytic sarcoma (aka malignant histiocytosis)
• Malignant fibrous histiocytoma

The post Histiocytoma in Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Coronavirus is a common virus that affects cats worldwide. It impacts about half of the cat population, but symptoms are not serious and may not even be noticed by pet parents.

In a very small number of cats, the virus mutates to a very serious form called Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP), which can be deadly.

Read on to learn more about the causes, symptoms, and treatment options for common coronaviruses in cats.

What is the Feline Coronavirus?

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A coronavirus is one of a family of viruses named for their shape—corona means “crown” or “halo,” and coronaviruses are said to be crown shaped. There are over 50 different viruses in this family, infecting mammals and birds all over the world with gut or respiratory problems.

Feline coronavirus is one of the coronaviruses that affect our household pets. Although distantly related to COVID-19, the common feline coronavirus is not contagious to humans, does not transmit to humans, and cannot cause symptoms in humans. This virus affects between 35 and 80 percent of cats worldwide, but the symptoms are generally mild and may even go unnoticed by cat owners.

Unlike the human coronavirus, which affects the respiratory tract, feline coronavirus is known as an ‘enteric’ coronavirus, because it affects the gut. Cats generally get diarrhea for 2-4 days and then appear to recover. It doesn’t affect other species, but is extremely contagious to other cats.

What Causes Coronavirus in Cats?

Feline coronavirus spreads from cat to cat through the fecal-oral route. This means that affected cats pass viral particles in their feces, and other cats pick it up by eating the virus or inhaling viral particles. This can happen if they walk over contaminated ground, or groom after using a shared litter tray. It can also be spread by mutual grooming, or on skin or clothes of humans. It is rarely passed from mother to kittens through milk. Kittens usually experience coronavirus for the first time when they’re weaned, and their mother’s protective antibodies are no longer circulating in their systems.

Coronavirus is extremely common in multi-cat households and breeding establishments, because it spreads so quickly after entering a house. It is not thought to be more prominent in any particular breeds, although FIP, which is related to coronavirus, affects pedigree cat breeds more frequently.

Symptoms of Coronavirus in Cats

Coronavirus causes few symptoms and may even go unnoticed by pet parents. The most common symptom of coronavirus in cats is diarrhea for a couple of days. This can occur at any time, although it is commonly found in kittens 8-10 weeks old.

Other symptoms of coronavirus in cats may include:

• Mild diarrhea
• Mild vomiting
• Mild lethargy
• Fading Kitten Syndrome
• Mutation to FIP causing severe, fatal illness

The Feline Coronavirus and FIP

The biggest concern about coronavirus in cats is its ability to mutate from the benign form to the severe and often-fatal Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP). A very small percentage of cats that get coronavirus will eventually—weeks, months, or years later—get FIP.

This is caused by a mutation in the virus that causes it to attack white blood cells instead of gut cells. When this happens, a cat’s body is unable to clear the infection as it normally would and instead causes extreme illness and eventually death.

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to tell whether a cat is at risk of developing FIP after getting a coronavirus infection, and there are no preventative measures available.

Diagnosing Coronavirus in Cats

Veterinarians rarely need to diagnose coronavirus, because most cats clear the infection with few if any clinical signs. However, if pet parents are bringing in a new cat to the house, or want to know the coronavirus status of their cat for any reason, there are tests available.

One of the most common is a patient-side snap test, which tests for antibodies to the virus in the blood. The veterinarian will take a small amount of blood and put it into a well, then wait for blue lines to appear—kind of like a pregnancy test. This test does not prove that a cat currently has coronavirus, but does show that they’ve contracted it at some point in the (probably recent) past. It doesn’t tell if they are shedding coronavirus or at risk of passing it onto other cats.

It is also possible to test for coronavirus in feline feces. The feces are sent to the laboratory and they test for particles of the virus. This is usually done as part of a panel to investigate diarrhea, but finding coronavirus in this result doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s causing the diarrhea. This is because, with up to 80 percent of cats in multi-cat households being infected, there’s a strong chance that the coronavirus would be present regardless of the cause of the diarrhea.

There are no tests to determine whether or not coronavirus will mutate to FIP.

How to Treat Coronavirus in Cats

It is highly unlikely that the common feline coronavirus needs veterinary intervention. It is very benign and rarely causes symptoms that are of concern.

For this reason, there are no specific treatments for coronavirus. For kittens or adult cats that have had diarrhea for a few days, anti-diarrheal medication may be given. Oral rehydration solution may also be recommended in cats that have had profuse diarrhea or vomiting in order to replace lost fluids.

However, it’s important to remember that if the symptoms are that severe, coronavirus is unlikely to be the cause.

Medications for Cat Coronavirus

As mentioned, medications are often not necessary to treat coronavirus in cats, but for cats with diarrhea, veterinarians may prescribe the following:

• Pre- and probiotics such as Bifidobacterium, Enterococcus faecium and mannan-oligosaccharides, to encourage good gut health.
• Anti-emetics such as maropitant or ondansetron to reduce nausea and vomiting
• Oral rehydration solutions containing a specific mix of salts and glucose to replace that lost with vomiting or diarrhea.

General Cost of Treatment for Feline Coronavirus

Coronavirus treatment in cats is rarely necessary. If you do decide to get some probiotics for a mild case of diarrhea, a vet visit and prescription is likely to set you back less than $150.

If your cat develops FIP, investigation and treatment can cost a lot more. For more information, see our article on FIP.

Whether your cat is being treated for Coronavirus or develops FIP, costs can add up quickly. Put your mind at ease with a pet health insurance policy such as Spot Pet Insurance. Speak to an agent about a policy that offers coverage within your budget. Fortunately, there are plenty of options and price points to accommodate your needs.

Save Money with Spot Pet Insurance

Spot Pet Insurance

• Affordable, customizable options.
• 30-day money-back guarantee.
• Coverage for alternative therapies such as acupuncture.

Get Quote

How to Prevent Coronavirus in Cats

There is a vaccine for coronavirus in cats, but it is not often used. This is because it cannot be given before 16 weeks of age, and the vast majority of cats contract coronavirus at 8-10 weeks of age, rendering the vaccination pointless.

Where coronavirus is a severe problem, for instance in affected shelters or breeding establishments, it may be possible to isolate a mother cat for long enough that she clears a current infection and then doesn’t get re-infected before giving birth. The kittens then need to be weaned several weeks earlier than usual and stay in isolation until they can be vaccinated. This is stressful for both mother and kittens and is not generally recommended due to the benign nature of the virus.

Related Conditions

• FIP

The post Coronavirus in Cats appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Hydrocephalus is known to affect all species with varying frequency, and is more common in dogs than most—although still fairly rare. 

What is Hydrocephalus?

Hydrocephalus literally translates as water on the brain. But the fluid is not actually water—it refers to cerebro-spinal fluid (CSF), which coats the spinal cord and parts of the brain. In hydrocephalus, this fluid is unable to drain away properly and increases pressure on the brain. 

There are two types of hydrocephalus in dogs:

Congenital hydrocephalus occurs in puppies, it’s something they’re born with and is likely due to a problem during fetal growth. 

Acquired hydrocephalus (which may also be caused secondary hydrocephalus or obstructive hydrocephalus) occurs in older animals, when inflammation, infections, or tumors grow and block the outflow of the CSF. A tumor of the brain is the most common cause of hydrocephalus in adult dogs.

What Causes Hydrocephalus in Dogs?

Congenital hydrocephalus is more common in small breed dogs, particularly in brachycephalic (short-faced) breeds and those with a domed head. 

The most common breeds to be affected are:

• Chihuahuas
• Boston Terriers
• Maltese 
• Pekingese
• Toy Poodles
• Yorkshire Terriers 

It is thought that the breeding of these miniature dogs with their small heads has changed the skeleton faster than the soft tissues inside, resulting in a brain that is too small for the skull (1). This means that the skull itself is blocking the outflow of CSF. 

Congenital hydrocephalus is a genetic defect, and affected puppies, and their littermates and parents, should not be bred. 

Secondary hydrocephalus in dogs (acquired hydrocephalus) can occur for a number of reasons. There have been some case reports of hydrocephalus occurring as a result of infections, such as the parainfluenza virus (2). There are also reports of parasitic (3) and fungal infestations (4) and immune dysfunctions causing hydrocephalus. 

The most common cause of acquired hydrocephalus is a brain tumor, which usually affects older dogs (5).

Symptoms of Hydrocephalus in Dogs

Congenital hydrocephalus affects dogs from birth, and therefore dogs are usually less than six months old when diagnosed. These dogs may be born with few symptoms which then worsen over time, which is why this form is sometimes considered to be a mild hydrocephalus in dogs. 

Their eyes may permanently look down or outwards and they usually have behavioral abnormalities including pacing or head pressing. 

Other symptoms of congenital hydrocephalus in dogs include:

• Domed head appearance 
• Large, open fontanel (or soft spot) in the skull
• Decreased vision or blindness
• Difficulty in house training or learning basic commands
• Regular circling
• Pacing and restlessness
• Spastic or high-step walking
• Head pressing against a surface—usually a wall or corner
• Seizures
• Coma

The symptoms of acquired hydrocephalus are similar, but the dogs are usually older. They are less likely to have the eye signs, fontanel or domed head, and the signs are often more severe than in the young puppies.

Diagnosing This Condition in Dogs

Your veterinarian will likely be suspicious of congenital hydrocephalus if a puppy of the right age and breed presents with a combination of the common symptoms, especially the easily visible ones like a domed head. Hydrocephalus is more difficult to diagnose in adult dogs, as other conditions can cause similar signs.

Blood tests are an important first step in diagnosing hydrocephalus, as they rule out conditions with similar symptoms and also point to possible causes of hydrocephalus in dogs, such as a viral infection. 

An ultrasound of the brain can sometimes be conducted in puppies if they have an open fontanel. This involves placing the ultrasound probe over the soft spot, where the skull hasn’t formed correctly, allowing your veterinarian to see the brain. 

In puppies with a closed fontanel or in adults, ultrasound is not possible. Instead a brain scan—taken with either an MRI or a CT scan—is usually all that is required to get a diagnosis. This will require your dog to be placed under general anesthesia since dogs need to stay very, very still for the test. Not all veterinary hospitals have a CT or MRI machine, and you may need to be referred to a large hospital with a neurologist on staff. 

Your veterinarian may also want to take a sample of your dog’s CSF. This involves placing a needle into fluid-filled space surrounding the spinal cord. This is important to ensure that any contributing causes are treated. 

Sometimes, brain activity is checked using electroencephalography (an EEG), although this is not available to all veterinarians.

How to Treat Hydrocephalus in Dogs

When hydrocephalus is first diagnosed, treatment is aimed at reducing the clinical signs—such as seizures, if they occur—and stopping the production of CSF. The vast majority of dogs will be managed with medication, and the condition will never be totally cured. 

If your dog has congenital hydrocephalus, the first medication started after diagnosis is usually a steroid, such as prednisone or cortisone. This takes down any inflammation and reduces the production of CSF. They may also require anti-epilepsy medication, which controls seizures.

The sooner your dog starts treatment, the more favorable the outcome, so it’s important that medications are started right away.

A surgery—whereby a drain or shunt is placed into the brain to remove the fluid—is possible, but it is not performed by all veterinarians and requires a surgical specialist. The surgery success rate is around 80 percent, but complications can be severe, ranging from severe pain to a blocked shunt requiring a second surgery. 

Remember, congenital hydrocephalus cannot be cured. However, successful surgery can provide dogs with a longer lifespan and a better quality of life. 

If your dog has acquired hydrocephalus, the only option is to find the cause of the condition and try to treat it. 

For brain tumors, radiation therapy may be used, but for infections, antibiotics and antiviral medications may be required. Treating these conditions can take time, so a shunt may be placed in the brain to drain the fluid and provide immediate pressure relief while waiting for the other drugs to take effect. 

The prognosis for dogs diagnosed with hydrocephalus varies depending on the cause. For instance, a dog with a simple infection, once cured, may have a normal lifespan. But a brain tumor carries a far worse prognosis and it may be challenging for these dogs to recover or live a normal life.

Medications to Treat Hydrocephalus in Dogs

• Prednisone: An oral steroid used as an anti-inflammatory. It also slows the production of CSF.
• Omeprazole: May be used to reduce the production of CSF.
• Furosemide: A diuretic used to encourage re-absorption of CSF.
• Mannitol: Rarely used, but useful in the very early stages to reduce intracranial pressure.
• Phenobarbital: A quick-acting anti-seizure medication.
• Levetiracetam: A quick-acting anti-seizure medication.

General Cost of Treatment 

The cost to diagnose and treat or manage hydrocephalus in dogs is expensive and pet parents should prepare themselves for the costs of diagnostic tests, monthly medications, or surgery.

Diagnostic tests and exams, including CT Scan/MRI: $1,000-$2,500

Medications: $50-$250 per month

Surgery: $5,000-$10,000

How to Prevent Hydrocephalus

In most cases, hydrocephalus in dogs cannot be prevented. In cases of congenital hydrocephalus, which is possibly genetic, the litter should never be used for breeding and the parents should not be bred from again. 

For adult dogs, regular vaccination with the parainfluenza vaccine and anti-parasite treatment may prevent some causes of hydrocephalus. The most common cause in dogs—a brain tumor—cannot be prevented.

Related Conditions 

• Brain tumors
• Seizures 

The post Hydrocephalus in Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Approximately 2 percent of dogs are diagnosed with cataracts and they can be caused by genetics, age, or influenced by other diseases.

Let’s dive into what cataracts are, how they develop in dogs, and what you can do to treat cataracts and keep your dog’s eye health top notch. 

What Are Dog Cataracts?

A cataract is an opacity, or cloudiness, in the lens of the eye. Normally, the lens of a dog’s eye is completely transparent. It sits behind the cornea (sometimes called the windscreen) and the iris (the colored part) and focuses light on the back of the eye (the retina). 

With age, certain genetics, or disease, the lens may become cloudy. This usually appears as a white, blueish, or cream cloud in the eye and ranges in size from as small as a pinprick up to covering the whole eye. How much the cataract covers affects how a dog sees. 

Cataracts are usually progressive—meaning they start out as very small and barely affect sight but will eventually grow and cause vision problems. Cataracts that cover the whole eye can cause blindness. 

It’s important not to confuse cataracts with nuclear sclerosis, a translucent blue-white change to the lens of older dogs. Nuclear sclerosis doesn’t seem to impact a dog’s vision and is considered a normal aging change to the canine eye.

What Causes Cataracts in Dogs?

Cataracts in a dog’s eyes are caused by a number of different things. 

Hereditary or genetic cataracts are the most common form of cataracts in dogs. They may also be called juvenile cataracts. These cataracts affect dogs far younger than most other forms of cataracts. Juvenile cataracts affect over 100 breeds, but the most commonly affected breeds are:

• Poodles (all sizes) 
• Boston Terriers
• French Bulldogs
• Staffordshire Bull Terriers

If these dogs inherit the cataracts gene from their parents, they often begin to develop cataracts as young as 8 weeks, and may be completely blind from 2-3 years of age. 

Congenital cataracts affect dogs immediately at birth, and the dog will be born completely blind. This only affects a very small number of dogs, but Miniature Schnauzers appear to develop congenital cataracts more than other breeds.  

Cataracts are also caused by aging changes in many dogs. This type of cataract normally affects dogs over four, with the average age for age-related cataracts being 9 years old. Yorkshire Terriers are the most common breed to develop age-related cataracts.

Dogs with diabetes also commonly get cataracts, with 3 out of 4 diabetic dogs getting some form of cataracts within 9 months of a diabetes diagnosis. Cataracts in dogs with diabetes can appear very suddenly and can cause pain and further eye damage within just a few days.

Symptoms of Canine Cataracts

So what do cataracts look like in dogs? The first symptom of a canine cataract is usually visible clouding in the eye. This can be any size, but usually starts smaller and begins to spread. 

If the cataract begins to obscure vision, you may notice your pet behaving strangely. However, many pets quickly learn their way around their house and common walks, so you may not notice symptoms of blindness until they go to a new place or you move furniture around. A reluctance to jump into the car is a common sign, especially after a walk. 

If cataracts cause other eye problems, like inflammation or increased pressure, or even trauma caused by walking into things, you may notice signs of eye pain. This includes excess tears and tear staining or rubbing at the eye.

Other symptoms of cataracts in dogs may include:

• Confusion and clumsiness, especially in new settings
• A change of color to the pupil, usually from black to a blue-white or cream-white color
• A reluctance to jump onto furniture or into the car
• Tear staining
• Eye discharge
• Redness to the white of the eye, or around the eyelids
• Rubbing at and scratching the eyes
• Squinting or repeated blinking 

Diagnosing Cataracts in Dogs

Your veterinarian may be suspicious of cataracts if your older dog develops a visible cloudiness in the eye. He or she will need to do a physical examination and will probably use an ophthalmoscope (to look into your dog’s eye), as well as put your dog through an obstacle course. 

A vet may also recommend several tests to make sure the cataracts aren’t related to diabetes and show your dog is otherwise healthy. 

Evaluation is best performed by an ophthalmologist with further training in this area and with access to more equipment, so your vet may well want to refer you onwards to a specialist or a veterinarian with eye health expertise.

After the clinical exam and exam with the ophthalmoscope, your veterinarian may want to conduct an eye pressure test for glaucoma, as this condition can cause a lot of pain. This involves applying a local anesthetic to the eye and testing the pressure with a specialized device. This will need to be repeated as your dog’s cataracts progress, since glaucoma can occur at any time.

How to Treat Cataracts in Dogs

Canine cataracts are usually a progressive, irreversible disease—meaning that once your pet develops cataracts they cannot be reversed and may continue to get worse. They can, however be managed or surgically removed.

Managing Cataracts in Dogs 

The majority of owners choose to manage their dog’s cataracts. This may be for financial reasons, as cataract surgery for dogs can be quite expensive, or because there isn’t a vet offering cataract surgery nearby. 

Managing the cataracts involves monitoring the progression of the disease with regular veterinary check-ups and treating any secondary diseases that might occur as a result of the cataracts, such as uveitis (inflammation) or glaucoma (high pressure inside the eye). 

Regular eye drops may be needed, and in some cases, you may find yourself applying several drops daily. These will not treat the cataracts, but they can prevent complications including uveitis and glaucoma.

Eye drops that are prescribed for dogs with cataracts can include:

• Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drops (Keterolac, flurbiprofen)
• Steroidal anti-inflammatory drops (prednisolone)
• Anti-pressure drops for dogs that have developed glaucoma (latanoprost, timolol, dorzolamide, brinzolamide)

You’ll also need to monitor and care for your pet’s fading eyesight by keeping to a set daily routine and being careful not to take them anywhere new or move your furniture around. 

Goggles or plastic cones may be needed to protect your dog’s eyes from injury if they’re in a new place and are more susceptible to bumping into things. You can also train your dog to respond to commands to warn your pup about upcoming obstacles.

Cataract Surgery for Dogs

Cataract surgery is usually performed by a veterinary ophthalmic specialist. First, several tests are done to ensure your dog is a suitable surgical candidate. Your dog needs to be able to be placed under anesthesia, and the veterinarian will want to ensure that the cataract is the sole reason for your dog’s loss of vision.

Cataract surgery may be recommended for dogs that have both eyes affected, in order to get the maximum benefit from the operation. 

The most common type of cataract surgery for dogs is called phacoemulsification. In this operation, the veterinarian passes a probe into the eye which vibrates to break up the cataract, then vacuums it out. 

The surgery has a 75-85 percent success rate. Afterward your pet should be able to see, but your dog may experience some visual deficits, such as being long-sighted. Sometimes an artificial lens is then inserted to improve your dog’s vision, but this isn’t suitable for every animal. 

Surgical costs vary, but the average cataract surgery for dogs costs around $3,500.

How to Prevent Cataracts in Dogs

Preventing cataracts in dogs may or may not be possible depending on the cause. If you’re getting a new puppy, and the breed commonly suffers from hereditary cataracts, it’s a good idea to only buy from a reputable breeder where both parents have been DNA tested for hereditary cataracts. This should reduce the risk of your dog carrying the gene and developing juvenile cataracts. 

Unfortunately, the second most common cause of cataracts is old age, and there’s no way to prevent age-related cataracts in dogs. Ensuring your dog has a healthy diet with plenty of vitamins may help, but this type of cataract may be inevitable. 

Regular check-ups at the vet should spot the signs sooner, allowing you to adjust your lifestyle to manage the cataracts effectively. Age-related cataracts are the slowest progressing of the cataract diseases and you and your dog may be able to live a normal life with only minor changes.

If your dog suffers from diabetes, getting their diabetes under control as quickly as possible is the best way to reduce the risk of them developing cataracts. 

Related Conditions 

• Nuclear Sclerosis
• Diabetes
• Glaucoma
• Uveitis
• Corneal Ulceration

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It’s almost always fatal and affected cats go downhill very quickly with a range of vague and varied symptoms. 

FIP is also an incredibly complex disease, as it is caused by the common coronavirus. This coronavirus affects about 90 percent of cats, but less than 1 percent go on to develop FIP. 

There’s no effective prevention for FIP in cats, and—until recently—there was no cure. However, the compounded antiviral drug Bova GS-441524 is now the preferred first-line treatment for cats with FIP and shows great promise in treating cats with the disease.

What is FIP in Cats?

FIP, or feline infectious peritonitis, is a disease caused by a mutated virus and an excessive immune response. Almost all cats (about 90 percent) pick up feline coronavirus at some point in their lives, usually when young, and especially if they’re living in multi-cat households or have been in a shelter. 

The vast majority of cats infected with this particular coronavirus will show no symptoms of the virus at all, or may have mild diarrhea. But in a small number, the virus mutates and the cats go on to develop FIP, which causes severe illness. This means that the FIP virus in cats is not a distinct virus, and is impossible to distinguish from coronavirus in many tests.

Unfortunately, there’s no way to tell if a cat will get FIP and once a cat has the disease it is often fatal.

Symptoms of FIP in Cats

Typically, FIP causes two distinct syndromes: wet and dry. Although there is no difference in survival or treatment it does help to organize symptoms into these two groups. It’s also important to remember that cats can present with any combination of symptoms from these two groups, rather than one or the other. 

Wet FIP generally causes fluid build-up in the abdomen, chest, lungs and heart. Cats with wet FIP often have abdominal swelling and may also struggle with breathing if the fluid is in the chest. They may be anorexic and generally depressed. 

Cats with dry FIP often have less clear symptoms. They may have lethargy and weight loss, wobbliness, and breathing problems. Sometimes cats with FIP symptoms eat normally and have normal energy levels, making early diagnosis very difficult. 

In the final stages of FIP, cats struggle to breathe and eat, often resulting in euthanasia.

Other symptoms of FIP in cats include:

• Abdominal swelling, often described as a pot belly 
• Breathing difficulties (open-mouth panting, harsh breathing, extra effort needed to breathe, fast breathing)
• Fever
• Weight loss
• Lethargy
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Jaundice
• Eye problems, including blindness, eye pain and eye color changes
• Wobbly eyes (nystagmus)
• Incoordination, wobbliness, paralysis 
• Seizures

How Do Cats Get FIP?

FIP is caused by a mutation of the very common coronavirus. This means that cats don’t catch FIP, they catch the coronavirus. Although the disease is caused by a feline coronavirus, this is NOT the same coronavirus associated with COVID-19 and cannot be transmitted from people to cats or vice versa.

This coronavirus strain that can lead to FIP is very common, especially in multi-cat households. It’s spread in the feces, so spreads between cats sharing a litter tray, exploring outside, or mutually grooming one another. It can also be passed directly from mother to kittens. The virus lives in the cells of the intestine and replicates, and usually causes no problems.

In a very small number of cats (less than 1 percent), the virus mutates while replicating, and becomes far more dangerous. 

The virus begins to infect macrophages, a type of white blood cell, which means it leaves the intestine and spreads around the body. The immune system fails to properly recognize the disease and treat it, causing it to spread further. The body also sends different immune cells to the viral particles to try to get it under control, but this causes more problems.

Cats with an immature or incapable immune system—cats under the age of two or those with concurrent illnesses—seem to be more likely to develop FIP. Stressed cats are also more likely to get the disease, as stress impacts the immune system. Intact (unneutered) male cats are also more likely to be affected by FIP, possibly due to other viruses or increased roaming contact with strange cats.

Some breeds of cats are particularly susceptible, too. These breeds include:

• Abyssinians
• Bengals
• Birmans
• Himalayans
• Ragdolls
• Rexes

Diagnosis of FIP in Cats

Diagnosing FIP is difficult, and unfortunately there is no single test that can confirm FIP in a living cat. Instead, it’s a matter of collecting evidence using several different tests to rule out other diseases with similar symptoms. 

Blood tests are an essential starting point, and can give your vet lots of information. They may be useful to rule out concurrent problems with the kidneys and liver as well as show changes typical of FIP such as a high white blood cell count, anemia, or changes in albumin and globulin (proteins in blood) levels. 

An FELV/FIV test is also run using blood tests, as ruling these out is an important step.

Sampling any fluid in the abdomen or chest is a good idea, and where there isn’t a lot of fluid, an ultrasound may be used to look for fluid or other suspicious lesions. FIP fluid can usually be drawn from a conscious cat using a syringe. 

Testing shows a high level of protein and it is usually straw-colored, so fluid that appears different can often rule out FIP. An external laboratory can test the fluid for the virus, which if positive, makes it highly likely that FIP is the correct diagnosis. Unfortunately, a negative doesn’t necessarily rule out the disease.

If a cat passes away and your vet suspects FIP, samples can be taken and sent to the laboratory to confirm the disease with 100 percent certainty.

Treatment for FIP in Cats

Until recently, the vast majority of cats with FIP were not expected to survive. Cats that are very sick when diagnosed are often euthanized to avoid further suffering. 

Medications have historically been aimed at supportive treatment and easing pain and may include steroids, chemotherapy, supportive feeding, vitamin injections, and probiotics.

However, thanks to advances in antiviral therapy, there’s a new treatment for FIP in cats that may provide a cure to the once-fatal disease. In one peer-reviewed study testing the safety and efficacy of the treatment, the results were dramatic: Of the 31 cats with FIP treated, 25 survived.

Based on that research, Bova GS-441524 is now available as the first officially regulated FIP treatment for cats. This groundbreaking compounded medication is the preferred first-line treatment for cats with FIP, with many cats showing reduced symptoms within 48-72 hours.

If your cat is diagnosed with FIP, ask your veterinarian if Bova GS-441524 would be an appropriate treatment. It comes in two tasty tuna-flavored oral formulations for easy dosing — 50 mg tablets and 50 mg/mL liquid medication. Dosage varies depending on a cat’s weight and what form of FIP they have. For the best chance of recovery, cats with FIP should take the medication for a full 12 weeks.

FIP in Cats Life Expectancy

Prognosis for FIP in cats is still extremely poor. The new drugs are not widely available and may be prohibitively expensive for many years. Additionally, the vast majority of cats are extremely sick when first diagnosed, and many cannot survive long enough for the medications to work.

Many cats who are not euthanized at diagnosis will die within a few days. The majority of cats are not expected to survive for more than two or three weeks, although there are isolated cases of cats taking a combination of medications and surviving for months.

Costs Associated With FIP in Cats

The costs of diagnosing and working to treat FIP in cats can quickly add up. Diagnosing FIP is likely to cost $300-$1,000 depending on the severity of the case and the number of tests needed. 

Many of the drugs associated with trying to treat FIP are hard to get hold of and extremely expensive. Extended hospital stays with fluids and supportive feeding tubes may be necessary. These costs can be up to $1,000 per day. 

Easing your cat’s pain and making him more comfortable at home with steroids is significantly less expensive and can be as little as $5 per day after the initial work-up costs.

How to Prevent FIP

Prevention of FIP is difficult, but it usually revolves around preventing immune-compromising disease and reducing the spread of coronavirus. 

Keeping cats in relatively small, stable groups of less than five pets and ensuring there are lots of regularly disinfected litter boxes can reduce spread. If a cat does contract FIP, owners should wait at least two months before getting another pet as the virus can live for up to seven weeks in the environment.

There is a vaccination to prevent infection with coronavirus available in some countries, but this cannot be given to cats under the age of 16 weeks. Since the vast majority of cats have already contracted the virus by this age, it’s unfortunately not very effective.

Related Conditions

• Feline Coronavirus

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Hot spots on dogs usually appear extremely quickly and spread fast, too. Thankfully, once treatment has started, they generally resolve quickly as well. 

What are Hot Spots?

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Hot spots are also known as acute moist dermatitis or pyotraumatic dermatitis, which better describe the disease. 

So, what do hot spots look like? A hot spot is a patch of hair loss with oozing skin, hence the term “moist dermatitis.” It’s usually several centimeters in diameter and may actually extend under the fur for some way. They appear quickly, and it’s not unheard of for areas 6 inches or more across to appear overnight. The skin is often red through irritation and the ooze is typically pale yellow-white. The fur around the area is usually sticky with the ooze, so may clump and appear darker than usual. 

The areas that most commonly get hot spots are on the neck, face, and thighs, but hot spots can affect anywhere on the body. The spots are also intensely itchy and painful, causing frantic scratching and nibbling. Many dogs get a little grumpy with a hot spot. 

Rottweilers, Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherds are all more prone to hot spots than the average dog. They are also slightly more common in male dogs than female dogs.

Symptoms of Hot Spots on Dogs

Hot spots are often first noticed because the dog keeps returning to the same area to lick, chew, or scratch. They’re really very irritating, and a dog with a hot spot will think of little else but scratching the itch. 

You may also notice a wet patch of fur, or even an area of fur loss. They’re usually on the head, neck, or outside of the back leg. However, a dog can get hot spots on his paws, back, tail, and even hot spots on the belly. 

Be cautious about examining the area yourself—many dogs find these spots so irritating and uncomfortable that they’re prone to growling or snapping when others get close to the area.

The problem spreads extremely quickly if not treated. What starts out as a small area may be several inches in size after just a few hours. 

Symptoms of hot spot on dogs include:

• Itching (including scratching, biting, licking, or chewing) at one area
• Fur loss, usually in one area
• Wet or matted fur
• Oozing, crusty, or scabby skin
• Uncomfortable to touch
• Behavioral changes, such as being more grumpy

What Causes Hot Spots?

Hot spots in dogs are caused by bacteria, usually a type called Staphylococcus pseudintermedius. These bacteria are present on your dog’s skin and mouth most of the time, and they’re usually harmless. 

Normally, the skin has good defense against bacteria and keeps them at a safe level. But if a few conditions combine—such as a scratch to the skin (caused by foliage, playing with other dogs, or even itching at fleas) and a certain level of moisture (wet or sweaty fur from swimming, being bathed, or just running around a lot)—then the bacteria get past the defenses. They find the ideal environment to start to multiply, and you get an infected hot spot. This is very itchy. Unfortunately, each scratch and chew breaks the skin further, spreading the bacteria around and causing further problems.

Hot spots can occur in any breed or age of dog. However, they’re more common in thick-coated breeds such as Golden Retrievers and German Shepherds. Rottweilers are also particularly susceptible to hot spots, although it’s not clear why. 

Because they’re usually started by something itchy, hot spots are also more common in dogs with fleas, allergies, or anxiety, as these things increase the amount of time dogs spend scratching.

Diagnosing Hot Spots 

Your veterinarian can often diagnose hot spots simply by seeing the injured area, as they’re quite distinctive. They may take samples—such as with a swab or a slide pressed to the skin—or even recommend a biopsy, particularly if the area doesn’t look quite like a hot spot and they want to rule out other diseases. They may also recommend investigating an underlying cause, such as fleas, ear infections, or allergies—something that could have caused the original itch. 

This could involve closer examination of the ears and ear canal, combing for fleas, and even taking blood to test for allergies. The majority of cases, however, are simple to diagnose and treat. 

How to Treat Hot Spots on Dogs

The first thing your veterinarian will do to treat the hot spot is to clip the fur from around the area. Often the “leading edge” of the spreading infection is under the fur, so clipping away the fur allows appreciation of the full extent of the problem. It also allows air to get to the area to dry it out. 

Next, a good clean with an antiseptic solution such as dilute iodine or hibiscrub kills off many of the bacteria living on the skin. Finally, your vet will prescribe a cream. This usually contains antibiotics and steroids, to both stop the bacteria from spreading and take away the itch. 

This treatment is usually effective within a couple of days, and the hair begins to grow back within a couple of weeks.

In more complicated cases, such as those that have spread a long way or where the skin is severely damaged, oral antibiotic tablets may be required. Steroids, either injectable or oral, can also take away the inflammation and itch. 

To make sure your dog doesn’t damage the skin further, many vets recommend a plastic Elizabethan collar. Blow-up collars are also useful for some cases but may not work if your dog has a hot spot on the tail or back paw, as they can often reach around the collar. 

Although medical T-shirts or bandages are useful to prevent interference with wounds, they’re not recommended for hot spots, as it’s important to keep the area open to the air.

Common Medications

• Chlorhexidine (as wipes, mousse, shampoo, or scrub) as an antibacterial cleaning solution
• Betamethasone (cream or spray) as an anti-itch and anti-inflammatory
• Hydrocortisone (cream or spray) as an anti-itch and anti-inflammatory
• Fusidic acid (in creams) as an antibacterial 
• Oral antibiotics in severe cases

Natural Remedies for Hot Spots

The vast majority of healing a hot spot comes from clipping, bathing, and applying an Elizabethan collar. These natural methods don’t require drugs to work and you can even administer them (carefully) at home. When bathing your dog, try using dilute saltwater or chlorhexidine scrub, which you can purchase from your local vet clinic.

If you do decide to try these home remedies for hot spots, do be aware that your dog will likely find the area uncomfortable when touched and may snap.

There’s no shortage of other home remedies for hot spots mentioned online. Most are likely to do no harm, although some may slow healing. Oatmeal baths, for instance, are soothing but the area is far too itchy for this to work. Plus, regular wetting of the area is likely to make it worse. 

Diluted apple cider vinegar is another commonly recommended home remedy for hot spots. But due to the acidity of vinegar, it’s likely to be painful to apply and there are other more suitable solutions. 

Some people recommend aloe vera as a home remedy for hot spots on dogs. While aloe vera gel is known to be safe and soothing, experts do not recommended applying it in anything more than a very thin layer, as allowing the hot spot to dry out and air is important to the healing process. Bathing the area twice daily with hibiscrub, drying, then following with a thin layer of aloe vera gel may work to treat a hot spot at home.

Burow’s solution may also work, given its antibacterial properties. However, more intensively tested medicated creams generally supersede it.

Some studies show that St. John’s Wort has benefits against skin bacterial overgrowth, but no safety testing has been done to evaluate whether this causes any harm when applied to the skin. It is a common poison of cattle, so it’s worth being cautious and using tried-and-tested drugs until science shows some evidence either way.

How Much Does Treatment Cost?

As long as the hot spot remains uncomplicated, treatment is likely to be in the region of $40-$100, depending on consultation and drug costs in your locality. 

Severely damaged skin can die off, leaving a wound that needs to heal. This will significantly increase costs and time taken to heal, and is an excellent reason for treating hot spots as soon as they appear.

Treatment costs increase when hot spots recur or an infection develops. Some of the more common reasons and costs associated with hot spot recurrence include:

• Anal gland hot spot: If a dog is unable to express his anal glands naturally through a bowel movement, hot spots may occur. Treatment costs include anal gland expression (Between $10 and $30). If the glands are impacted and infected, medications ranging from $20 to $100 may be prescribed. 
• Hot spots as the result of allergies or food sensitivities may require allergy testing ranging from $50 to $300. If your vet recommends blood test, the range grows between $150 and $300.
• Hot spots due to environmental issues may be treated with special shampoos or omega-3 fatty acids, both of which range between $20 and $50. 
• If a bacterial infection occurs at the hot spot location, your veterinarian may send a skin biopsy off for analysis. Depending on the treatment recommended, medications and special creams and shampoos range between $25 and $100.

What may seem like an innocuous lesion can quickly turn into something more serious. Address hot spots as soon as you find them. One way to keep costs down is with a pet health insurance plan from Lemonade. The sooner you have a plan in place, the sooner it will take effect to help during unexpected accidents and illnesses.

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An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and there are some time-tested ways to prevent hot spots in the next section.

How to Prevent Hot Spots on Dogs

Preventing hot spots centers around two things: preventing the initial scratch injury and keeping dogs cool and dry. 

In order to prevent your dog from scratching, regularly treat against fleas and other itchy parasites such as lice and mites. Keep allergies well controlled with medications and diet, and flare-ups treated by a vet as soon as possible. If your dog has allergic itch and inflammation due to skin allergies, your vet may prescribe Apoquel, an oral tablet that provides fast, effective relief. It can be used for long-term maintenance or short-term therapy in dogs.

Dogs with anal gland problems should have these treated, usually by emptying them and increasing fiber in the diet. 

Ensuring that the skin is as healthy as possible is sensible, too. Dog skin supplements designed to increase skin barrier function may help. You should also keep nails trimmed and the sharp point filed to reduce the risk of scratch injuries. 

If your dog is prone to ear infections, discuss regular ear cleaning with your vet as a preventative measure. Itchy ear infections can become hot spots on the face or neck.

Since hot spots are more common in longer-coated breeds, regular grooming to ensure they don’t have too much coat is an important part of preventing hot spots. It’s also a good idea to make sure dogs are completely dry after swimming or baths, so that the moisture doesn’t encourage the bacteria.

Pictures of Hot Spots

Related Conditions 

• Atopic dermatitis (allergy)
• Food-responsive dermatitis (dietary allergy)
• Anal gland impaction
• Otitis externa (ear infection)
• Flea allergic dermatitis (flea allergy)
• Fleas
• Anxiety

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Ear mites are itchy, irritating, and they quickly spread from dog-to-dog, or between other animals in the house. Luckily, ear mites are easily treated and simple to prevent. 

What are Ear Mites?

Ear mites are very small arachnids, meaning they have eight legs and are in the same class as ticks and spiders. They can affect dogs, cats, ferrets, and wild animals including foxes, wolves, polecats, and wildcats.

The most common type of ear mite that affects dogs is Otodectes cynotis. These mites are too small to see with the naked eye. 

Although some mites burrow into the skin, ear mites stay on the surface, feeding on dead skin and secretions. 

Ear mites are obligate parasites—meaning they require a host to complete their life cycle and reproduce. In fact, the entire life cycle of the ear mite is completed in the ear canal. 

Despite spending most of the time deep within the ear canal, ear mites in dogs are contagious and can quickly spread between animals. Transmission of ear mites to humans is, thankfully, rare. 

Symptoms of Ear Mites in Dogs

Ear mites are very itchy, and cause symptoms of irritation such as head shaking or scratching at the ears. This scratching may be severe, and may result in wounds over a dog’s head and neck. Severe head shaking cause an aural hematoma—a swelling of the ear flap. 

On closer examination of ear mites in dogs, pet parents may see a dark, waxy discharge, usually described as looking like coffee grounds. 

The ear may also have an unusual smell, although this is usually caused by a secondary bacterial infection rather than the mites themselves. The inside of the ear flap and area around the ear canal often looks red and irritated, too. 

The main symptoms of ear mites in dogs are:

• Head shaking
• Scratching at the ears
• Rubbing ears along the ground
• Head tilting
• Scratch wounds to head, neck, and ears
• Dark, waxy discharge that looks like coffee grounds
• Redness around the ear canal
• Smelly ears
• Swollen ear flaps

What Causes Dog Ear Mites?

Since ear mites in dogs are contagious, they spread to your dog by direct contact with an infected animal. Usually, this is from a mother dog to puppies, making ear mites common in puppies and young dogs. 

Older dogs may get ear mites from a playmate or another animal in the house. Ear mites are more common in cats than dogs and may be brought into the house by a feline family member. 

As dogs age, they mount an immune response to ear mites, meaning they can often keep the mites to very small numbers that do not cause symptoms of an infection. Because of this, an adult dog can unknowingly pass ear mites to young dogs and puppies. Since puppies don’t have strong immune systems, they often get the full extent of the disease.

Although rare, it is possible for contaminated brushes or grooming products to spread ear mites to dogs. In order for this to happen, a brush or product infected with mites would need to be used on a healthy dog almost immediately after contamination, since ear mites cannot survive for long without a host. 

Diagnosing Ear Mites in Dogs

If you suspect your dog has ear mites, the best thing to do is to take him to your veterinarian, who will do a physical exam of your dog’s skin and ears. 

Your veterinarian will also look into the ear canal with an otoscope and take a sample of your dog’s ear wax with a swab. Once spread onto a slide and viewed with a microscope, this allows your veterinarian to see the ear mites and confirm their presence.  

Ear Mite Treatment for Dogs

Treatment for ear mites should be prescribed by your veterinarian. 

Ear Mite Medication for Dogs

Common ear mite treatments for dogs include:

• Multi-pharmaceutical ear drops 
• Oral anti-parasite treatments such as fluralaner or sarolaner 
• Spot-on anti-parasite treatments such as moxidectin or selamectin
• Injectable anti-parasite treatments such as ivermectin

Ear Drops: Medicated ear drops are a common form of treatment for ear mites in dogs and can fix the problem quickly. Ear drops are usually multi-pharmaceutical, meaning they contain antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal properties in addition to the mite treatment. This is important if your pet has a secondary bacterial infection. 

Ear drops for mite treatment are usually prescribed twice daily for 7-10 days, and a repeat course a week later is usually needed. 

Oral and Spot-On Medications: Some oral and spot-on flea and tick medications are also effective in treating ear mites in dogs. These often require only one dose to clear the problem. Sometimes your veterinarian will prescribe an anti-inflammatory, anti-itch or antibiotic, depending on your dog’s other symptoms. 

Cost to Treat Ear Mites in Dogs

You can expect ear mite treatment to cost $40-$80 depending on the treatment chosen and your veterinarian’s consultation fees. In severe infestations and multi-pet households, the treatment may cost more, especially if there are complicating factors such as an aural hematoma or a secondary bacterial infection.

Precautions During Treatment

Since ear mites are contagious, it’s important to get treatment for all the animals in the house, otherwise they’ll continue to pass mites back and forth. 

It’s also a good idea to wash all bedding that your dog uses. Although the mites cannot live for very long off your dog, if some have fallen into the bedding, they could climb back on. 

Similarly, all grooming equipment should be soaked in cleaning solution for a few hours to ensure no mites have survived.

Home Remedies for Ear Mites in Dogs

Unfortunately, there are no proven home remedies for ear mites in dogs. 

Vinegar is often suggested, but can cause soreness and irritation on an already uncomfortable ear and is not recommended. Tea tree oil has been shown to have good mite-killing capabilities but hasn’t been safety tested on the eardrum and inner ear. 

Some people also suggest using olive oil, mineral oil, or corn oil as a natural remedy for ear mites, as a way to drown the mites. Although this is considered fairly safe, it takes a long time to drown ear mites in oil, and you will need to repeat treatment daily for several weeks. This method may be harmful if your dog has a damaged eardrum due to the mites or an infection, so getting a veterinarian to take a look with a scope first is a good idea.

You can also try to boost your dog’s immune system to help fight off the mites naturally. Using a dog skin supplement will also improve general skin health, but talk to your veterinarian before giving your dog any kind of supplements.

Prevention of Canine Ear Mites 

The only way to prevent ear mites from entering your home is to check all other animals your pet comes into contact with for signs of infection. 

Since this isn’t practical, using a monthly flea and tick preventative that also protects against ear-mites is recommended.

In addition, ensuring that your dog has a good immune system that isn’t weakened by illness or stress is important. Keeping on top of any allergies to ensure optimum skin health can help reduce the likelihood of a mite infestation. 

Regular inspection of the ears and, when necessary, ear cleaning is a good way to catch ear-mite infestations early.

Related Conditions

• Otitis externa (outer ear infection)
• Otitis media (middle ear infection)
• Aural hematoma
• Atopic dermatitis (allergies)

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